filler neck modification

-

kielbasavw

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
214
Reaction score
5
Location
orange county
Many of us know about the dreaded filler neck angle in early valiants and probably others (i own a 65 valiant) that does not work with todays pumps, forcing us to hold at 45-90degrees. I know there is a company that will modify tubes (name excapes me) for what I remember to be a rediculous amount of money.

Today I scored a filler neck from another 65 that was in the local junk yard. Does anyone know modify them to work like they should? Possibly pictures? I'm a welder and metal fabricator by trade so this is right up my alley. I was thinking of inserting a washer like plate that has an ID just a bit bigger then the OD of the pump. And down further was thinking of using some screen (expanded metal) and roll it to be a little smaller then the tube itself to act as a baffle. Any suggestions or experience on this subject?
 
When I bought my 66 Dart the filler neck had already been modified.I believe they cut the tube 1/2 way down and welded on a later(72-73)bottom 1/2 tube.It worked as I never had a overflow problem filling gas up.My 2 cents.
Not sure if you can see it in pic.
View attachment trim 022.jpg
 
You know,there could be I didn,t look.LOL I just cut the filler end off with cap as I installed a fuel cell(race car now)I wanted to maintain the twist part that holds the cap at the 1/4 panel.I do know there was some type of metal hanging out the tube when I pulled it out.I,d have to go look.
 
I think Laysons use to offer a modification of some sort...
 
Many of us know about the dreaded filler neck angle in early valiants and probably others (i own a 65 valiant) that does not work with todays pumps, forcing us to hold at 45-90degrees. I know there is a company that will modify tubes (name excapes me) for what I remember to be a rediculous amount of money.

Today I scored a filler neck from another 65 that was in the local junk yard. Does anyone know modify them to work like they should? Possibly pictures? I'm a welder and metal fabricator by trade so this is right up my alley. I was thinking of inserting a washer like plate that has an ID just a bit bigger then the OD of the pump. And down further was thinking of using some screen (expanded metal) and roll it to be a little smaller then the tube itself to act as a baffle. Any suggestions or experience on this subject?
I haven't found the filler tube modification but I did find the one where you put in the flap(looks like an unleaded part in the newer cars) I have done it on my 66 but have not got the car together to test it out.here's the process . it's a pita to get it in but once it's in it doesn't move.
I hope this is readable
View attachment gas tank sentry.jpg
 
The stock tube has a plate that sticks out past the end of the tube that splits the last few inches of tube in half
 
I haven't found the filler tube modification but I did find the one where you put in the flap(looks like an unleaded part in the newer cars) I have done it on my 66 but have not got the car together to test it out.here's the process . it's a pita to get it in but once it's in it doesn't move.
I hope this is readable
View attachment 1714612312

By any chance do you have the link to the company that sells the restrictors?
 
I'm still a bit confused how that s suppose to stay there over the years, makes me a bit worried wedging metal in metal with no permanent install where vibrations can occur metal on metal inside the gas tank area.
 
I'm still a bit confused how that s suppose to stay there over the years, makes me a bit worried wedging metal in metal with no permanent install where vibrations can occur metal on metal inside the gas tank area.


I helped a guy in Michigan put one in his 65 cuda. it's been in there for over 3 years now without a problem. the bottom teeth make grooves into the tube and hold it in there pretty well. oh and it stopped the kickback overflow problem he was having. he got a new cap and it hasn't stained his quarter panel since or leaked.

the hardest problem with installing it is the flapper wants to rotate (top or bottom of the flapper) or point towards the gas tank. but won't go past the curve in the tube,. it took a few tries to get it to stay upright. But once you get straight it wedges in and the teeth hold it firmly after you tap the bottom pointy teeth to grab a little more. I got the first one in and realized that the flapper was upside down. that took even longer to get it unhooked from the tube and pulled out . 15 minutes getting it in, 2 minutes trying to figure out why it looked funny (it was upside down) and 60 minutes trying to get it back out without breaking it. so far I've done 3 of em and they all were a pita to get lined up and in but once they are in they hold!


I'm going to do the other dart next year when it goes down for resto and I'll tack that one in (if I can get the tip in to do it) . I want to see if it makes a big difference. yeah the tube will be out of the car and away from the gas, since they are so easy to remove.
 
If you are a fabricator, I would cut a metal disk the same size as the ID of the filler tube (so you can wiggle it in there past the rolled edge) and cut a fuel nozzle size hole so the top is very close to the top of the disk and weld it in there (off the tank of course) That way if some fuel backs up, itll hit the dam you just welded in there. Or just hold the filler sideways or upside down.
 
If you are a fabricator, I would cut a metal disk the same size as the ID of the filler tube (so you can wiggle it in there past the rolled edge) and cut a fuel nozzle size hole so the top is very close to the top of the disk and weld it in there (off the tank of course) That way if some fuel backs up, itll hit the dam you just welded in there. Or just hold the filler sideways or upside down.


As a test (with an extra filler tube! I'm real tempted to just put a 1/2 way around the tube cut/slice in the filler tube, insert blocking plate with a hole in it and weld the darn thing up. that would give the gas fill nozzle something to fit through and enough back pressure so that it kicks of auto fill. but I do like that flap in there even though it doesn't stop any gas from coming back out when driving. I got one of SSdans gas caps and they are NICE! they fit snug and the handle is level like it's supposed to be. so between the flaper and the new cap I ought to be good to go.
 
Would I see any benefits by adding a baffle. Say a rolled up screen towards the center or end of the tube?
 
I'm still a bit confused how that s suppose to stay there over the years, makes me a bit worried wedging metal in metal with no permanent install where vibrations can occur metal on metal inside the gas tank area.

The restrictor in that picture was being installed 4 years ago in my 65 Dart and also in my daughter's 65 Dart. The restrictor has been used for a little over 20,000 miles and continues to stay in position. Fuel is dispensed from all the nozzles of different gas stations during that time in a normal position without problem.
 
Does one need the restrictor in regions where the pump nozzles have a tight-fitting bellows cover? I don't recall spill-overs in filling my 65 Newport in CA with such nozzles. I haven't been driving my A's regularly to know. As I understand it, without the restrictor, the fill tube doesn't build up enough air back-pressure to trip off the fill nozzle. However, the bellows may work to trap air similarly.
 
Many of us know about the dreaded filler neck angle in early valiants and probably others (i own a 65 valiant) that does not work with todays pumps, forcing us to hold at 45-90degrees. I know there is a company that will modify tubes (name excapes me) for what I remember to be a rediculous amount of money.

Today I scored a filler neck from another 65 that was in the local junk yard. Does anyone know modify them to work like they should? Possibly pictures? I'm a welder and metal fabricator by trade so this is right up my alley. I was thinking of inserting a washer like plate that has an ID just a bit bigger then the OD of the pump. And down further was thinking of using some screen (expanded metal) and roll it to be a little smaller then the tube itself to act as a baffle. Any suggestions or experience on this subject?

i took mine completely out and welded the quarter panel up........










attachment.php
 
That makes it really tough for gas thieves! Doesn't help much with loading stuff into the trunk, but the stock filler tube kinda sucks in that area, too.

BC
 
I added one of those very same restrictors to my '65 Barracuda a week ago in hopes of stopping a serious fuel leak almost every time I filled up. It doesn't really work all that well in my case. The first time I used I filled up on the slowest speed of the fuel pump as always, and it shot gas everywhere when it was full. It was noisy that day at the gas station so I couldn't hear the pitch change when the tank is near full.

The one thing it did help with was the use of the accordion bellows that some newer pumps have. Before I dreaded those pumps, but the restrictor allows easy use of them.

I had this exact issue on my '62 Falcon. So I did what hollywood did and modified a Toyota filler tube and charcoal canister (with vent line) to fit in the trunk. That worked perfectly. I'll eventually do the same with my Barracuda.

-marcus
 
'Tell ya. Unless you guys

have for CERTAIN tight leakproof caps, and I'm not thinking factory stockers here

vent the trunk for MINUTES after a fill up

This could lead to what we used to call in the natural gas business "a rapid expansion."

This is why marine bilges are required to have vent blowers

jack-beckman-nhra-crash.jpg
 
-
Back
Top