Finally getting to it!!! 1970 Duster 340

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I've been working on the dash assembly since my last post. The original Rallye bezel was really showing its age. I opted for a new repro bezel from BE&A. The new bezel is beautifull!! I don't ever remember the original bezel looking half as nice as this one even when the car was 5 years old. The gauge faces were in great shape....just needed the needles painted. The "purists" will recognize that the performance gauge is not correct for 1970, but my brother and I found it while junking for parts when the car was on the road in 1979. I like it and I like to watch the needle move around.:)
I also modified the cluster with a RTE voltage limiter. I hooked up the radio suppressor but wasn't sure if I needed to. I will be sending my thumbwheel out for AM/FM conversion and modern guts.
I gotta say that the A body Rallye dash is one of my favorites but I guess I'm a little biased.

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I never knew that the Rally Dash had an option for a vacuum gauge in the center of the cluster.

Very Cool.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
It was not an option in 1970 but was available in Barracudas from 1967-1979.
 
I think that I 'm going to put in LED lights in my dash 'cause my old neck can't handle being squished up against the floorboard like it use to. I'm looking at cool white 5 LED bulbs for the dash cluster, green single LED's for turn signals, cool white single for the high beam and a red single LED for the brake light.
I've read a bunch of LED posts and that's what Ive concluded from them. I would appreciated anybodies input about my selection. I'm looking to improve visibility over stock. I've read mixed reviews about whether the lights will be able to be dimmed afterwards.
 
I had a typo in post #57. The performance indicator was available from 1967- 1969. My bad.
 
My dash assembly is on hold until the frame is back from the powder coater. I will be purchasing a new dash harness from Year One but I'm holding out until they offer a discount.
I started tearing into the "heart" of the old girl a couple days ago. Disassembly went well....no broken bolts or stuck pieces. I will be inspecting and measuring components. I've been using "How to Rebuild the Small-Block Mopar" book and my trusty factory service manual (aka The Bible) throughout the process.
This will be my first complete rebuild and I'm trying to formulate a plan for what direction I want to go before pieces go off to the machine shop. This will be a fairly stock rebuild for dependability and streetability with some internal upgrades. I plan on using the stock AVS , intake and exhaust manifolds. I'm leaning towards a Comp xe268 cam and Keith Black 243 pistons. I guess I'll decide on connecting rods once I check the specs on the originals.
I read a lot of threads about quench/ squish and I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the concept and technique. Any input from the pros here on FABO would be greatly appreciated.

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Your wife's going to pissed that you laid out your engine parts on her best table cloth. ;)

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
You're pretty observant Joe! Do you thin k she will notice if I put it back in the linen drawer? It looks like a glam shot for "Playbore" magazine.
 
FJRdoc said:
You're pretty observant Joe! Do you thin k she will notice if I put it back in the linen drawer? It looks like a glam shot for "Playbore" magazine.
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Hmmm, I'd put at the bottom of the drawer. She won't notice until Christmas and then you can play dumb.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Got a call from the powder coater today. My dash frame is finished and ready for pick-up. I hope to get it Friday and get some completed pics on here soon. I'm anxious to see how it looks!
 
Just a tip based on past experience with dash frames. It will be hard to make yourself do it, but when you get ready to bolt the dash frame back in....you need to sand the powder coating off where it bolts to the door jamb. It won't make a good ground for the dash components if you don't. I always (since I learned the hard way) sand the body side of the dash frame to bare metal, and a small area of the body at the bolt hole at the door jamb to bare metal. Then use some dielectric silicone grease on both parts before bolting the dash frame in. After that, just make sure that the screws from the Rallye Dash assembly that need to be in a good ground make a good bite thru the powder coating to the metal dash frame. Doing this will insure that your lights, wipers, radio, etc. will work properly. All your stuff you've restored looks REALLY nice. :prayer: Keep up the good work. :D
 
Thanks for the compliment. I'm having so much fun working on this car. I appreciate your info on sanding down the powder coating to ensure proper grounding. I hate dealing with electrical gremlins and any advice such as yours is greatly appreciated.
 
sls001 said:
Nice work - in looking at the rear brakes; did you put the brake shoes on backwards? It is hard to tell in the picture but the short shoe should go in the front, the picture looks like you have the short shoe on the rear.
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This person is correct, you have the "primary shoe" short one in the rear but it should be in the front, please check this again.

Oh and your workmanship is exceptional!!!!
Ron
 
Got my dash frame back from the powder coater. I used Tiger black matte fine texture and it was a dead ringer for the suede finish. My local coater blasted and coated the dash frame and glove box door for $68!!!
Got everything reassembled tonight and I am a happy camper. Time to get crackin on the engine.

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Nothing like a Mopar centerpiece to help celebrate Thanksgiving.
 
Looks great! Did your local coater leave a bare area so you can get a good ground for your dash lights, tach, etc.?

Edit: Ooops, never mind. I see it was already addressed. :-D
 
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