First round of issues found on the 63 Valiant

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gandude

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First real look delving into the 63. Wife got sick (she's good now) just after we got it so it's been sitting since '07. Found a cracked exhaust manifold, bad heater core, and rust. Tried to clean the crud from the engine but it's solid crud glued to the engine. I replaced the leaking plug tube washers and checked compression with a weak starter, picked up a new one though:

1-133
2-134
3-133
4-125
5-127
6-133

Pulled valve cover and couldn't believe the crud! ...the engine runs good though. Wonder if I should just flush it for the next 25,000 oil changes.

Can someone point me to an exhaust manifold?

Passengerside_zpsbc5fdc58.jpg


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Rustedhood_zps605a517f.jpg


Cowl-fenderrust_zps88705463.jpg


RnRheatercore_zpsc6635b31.jpg


CrackedManifold_zps2440364a.jpg
 
If the crud is in the engine, under the valve cover. It would be best to use a small wire brush and shop vacuum to remove. If this is correct, DO NOT FLUSH the trash loose, unless you need replacement anyway. If really bad the only way to remove it is to remove engine and put on a engine stand and clean it that way. Head would need to be vatted to clear oil passages and it would not hurt to hot tank the block also to remove rust scales behind the freeze plugs.

If you do flush out the oil, the oil pump screen will clog. Co-worker had these issues and when the fuel pump leaked gas into the oil the trash moved and motor stopped. He was real bad about not changing is oil, to save money.
 
If you remove the oil pan (jack up engine ~3"), I wouldn't be concerned with washing the crud down the insides, using diesel, kerosene, or gasoline (don't smoke). Seems like the worst it could do is sit on the camshaft, but I think you can reach that from underneath with a paper towel. I would force clean oil thru the pressure switch port first (use a hand garden sprayer & rubber hose) to keep any grit out of bearings.

Your compression numbers look good. I hope you got a mini-starter (from Magnum engines). They are half the size and weight, and often cheaper.

The heater core is cheap (~$25), at least for my 64 & 65 w/o factory air. Any slant exhaust manifold will fit. People ask $100 for a used exhaust manifold on ebay, though you can get one attached to a whole slant engine for less. If a smog car (~74+), you need an EGR block-off plate (ebay) or keep the EGR on (no vacuum). Some later engines had a different choke pocket that might not work with your carburetor. It looks like a P.O. did the infamous upgrade of "make engine bay look purty by spraying black paint over rust & grime", as they did on my 2 A's. Time with paint remover, a wire brush, sandpaper, and new paint got it looking nice.
 
Thank you Bill for the info.

No, spent $45 on a rebuilt from O'reillys -should have waited, didn't know about the smaller one. The rebuilt is night/day compared to the old one though.

I cleaned a previous Ford FE out w/garden hose and Gunk. Got it real clean and it ran cooler and better. The plan is to pull motor/trans on this one and do the same. After removing the battery tray and supports I found some bad rust. Its through the inner fender well and back to the top rear of the unibody frame. I think perhaps a bit more than I can chew here. Like you, I plan to 'scrape and grind' my way through on this.

I noticed a lot of people on this board rebuild and sell, I'm just looking to be able to drive a reliable nice looking classic car with no plan to sell. I just hope the rust doesn't get me.

/r

-Glen
 
GUNK!!! LOL! must be an epidemic of gunk!?? i started question of gunk feww weeks ago , you might hit search and read all the advice. lot of helpful comments and that can differ quite a bit! lots like it will be really neat convert! we have to work on our cars to please ourselves first, and if someone can make a buck putting money into the average A body, (small blocks cars much less slants) then more power to them!! gonna run mine with high detergent oil for now, , if later i can afford it, rebuild the super gunk motor that originally came out of it. i have a 72 slant duster for sale with out without motor so if someone buys it to put sb in, i will have good motor from it too. good luck and don't let the rust bum ya out!!
 
barbee6043 LOL, ...bet my engine is gunkier than yours.


my plan is to put an old blanket down in the backyard as a gunk filter. Then while the motor is hanging on the cherry picker over the blanket, use engine cleaner and blast hot water inside and outside of the engine. Also clean the removed oil pan and valve cover. Then elbow grease and brushes!

It's hard to re-ring or rebuild a good running motor that burns no oil. -and knowing it's that dirty inside as I try to keep my stuff in good shape.

Good luck with your engine and thanks for your upbeat post!.
 
Looks like a neat little Val. That one picture of the sprayed on black stuff is a little scary though. How are the quarters? Also, with that back window open, hopefully it was covered--otherwise rear floors will be toast (guess how I know!)

Pretty little ride--good luck!
 
Oven cleaner works real good for the outside.
Please do not put water in the engine.
 
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