First time out Results

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69dodgedart360 said:
Old Man Rick: Thanks for the info, yeah I think a converter is needed for sure but I do drive it a lot on the freeway (30 miles one way) so I am a bit worried about trans temps. Thanks for the advice on just trying to stall it as high as I can and launch. The car launches soft and the stall and street gearing making it ssssllloooowwww out of the hole.
Motor:
10:1 360
X Heads that are supposedly ported but I dont know
Edelbrock Air Gap
Demon 750cfm Vacuum Secondaries, green pump cam 72/80 Jets (if I went with any higher Jets the car surged and was super rich so I settled on this for jetting)
Comp XE284 that was advanced to the + marking on the comp timing chain so I assume an additional 4 degrees to the additional 4 degrees built into it.
TTI Headers
MSD Everything with 2 silver light springs in it

The car launches straight, the front end lifts slightly, and the rear end hardly squats down, only a little bit. Very soft launch with wheel spin.
My Dad took video that I will try to upload of one of my runs.
Click to expand...

Thanks hangn0ut, i missed it the first time around.

Hope he can get his dads video to up load. would help out a lot!!!!!!!
 
Sorry for the delay, but I for some reason could not post the video that had a better angle at the starting line. All I have is the following video, kinda useless. I think I am misunderstanding the design of the SS springs. I thought that when launching the car, the rear should squat, and from what it sounds like, the rear should plant and the springs should hold themselves from squatting? Anyways, I would love the torque converter swap but I cant afford it. I think I am gonna try a gear swap since I have some 3.91's along with a pinion snubber and Mancini Racing A-Body Drag Shocks.

In this run I ran I think it was 13.71 at 101 and I stalled it up to about 1500 and floored it. Very soft launch with this converter, but its a 2400rpm converter, what do you expect.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5Taf-EK2R0&feature=youtu.be"]IMG 3088 2 - YouTube[/ame]
 
What bushing do you have in the distributor? It should the black one. Initial timing should be in the 18-20 minimum range.

You have to drag the engine through a bunch of RPM range with that converter. I'd try launching it as high up as you can.

Et street radials or bias ply. If radials, try a lighter burnout and put more air in them.
 
Hey Crackedback, I think I have the stock bushing in the distributor at the moment, I have not changed that before. Is the black bushing the most aggressive or something? I do have 18 initial in it and yeah, it sucks, I think a gear swap would help the most outside of changing the converter to maybe a 3500 rpm stall. I am gonna fully air them up and slowly drop the pressure. Hoping to go back out in two weeks for some more practice.
 
Just checked out MSD's website so I think I have the original red bushing. It says by swithcing to the black bushing it will limit advance to 18 degrees but what exactly would that do for my engine? I currently have the 2 light springs in the distributor and run 18 initial and I think 34/36 total.
 
Total timing = initial timing (18 ) + Mechanical advance (18 ) = 36

The lighter springs means the engine reaches total advance at a lower RPM. I bet the red bushing gives more mechanical advance so you are probably getting more total advance then you think.


What is the pinion angle? Changing the pinion angle can change the reaction of the car during the launch (squat versus rise). In the video I didn't see the rear end of the car make any significant move up or down.
 
sledger46 said:
Total timing = initial timing (18 ) + Mechanical advance (18 ) = 36

The lighter springs means the engine reaches total advance at a lower RPM. I bet the red bushing gives more mechanical advance so you are probably getting more total advance then you think.


What is the pinion angle? Changing the pinion angle can change the reaction of the car during the launch (squat versus rise). In the video I didn't see the rear end of the car make any significant move up or down.
Click to expand...

X2 but the rear end is way up there like a SS spring would do.

At the vary least remove the bottom of each rear shock and see how much travel is left as you pull it down past its mount.
I didn't see any wheel hope on that run but front shock look a little stiff as well(stiff is good for the street)

Hold the brake Tight and stall it up some more, it will 60' foot much better.

When i had my 340 and a 2800 rpm stall converter, i found that 2200 stall worked best for me. Had the suspension loaded and just a tiny bit more kick in the converter at the start.(NOTE my car would have 60 foot way better with better, and higher, stall converter.)
 
If they are SS spring, the Right rear fender should be higher then the Left rear.
A tape measure will answer that question real fast.
 
Not sure what pinion angle is and I will check out the shocks and see how much travel is left in them. Yeah they are for sure Super Stock springs. When I go back out, I will try and stall it as high as I can at the line and launch it that way.
 
I was thinking TSI 3400 stall but first I would look at the timing and the accelerator pumps you can check your jets but hows the car move under load , mabee you can time at 10-12 or more before tdc and lean the front out to 68 and set Xeloratror pump so when you just tap it its squirting rev it high as you can before a good 50 cc secondairy pump shot is just shooting as it starts to open should make that 60 consistant in every run , feed the secondairies but make sure no bog from first rev threw the carb transaction and like some 1 said find that sweet spot for your shift 4300 or 5800 don't let it bog or quit pulling threw your stopwatch or run . it may take a radar gun or 5 stop watches until you feel it in your *** , but listen to that motor as it takes fuel so its 1 smooth transaction , but watch those plugs also , nice light tan no black or speckles , and temp is always changing . but a fine tuned carb to burn ratio very important , if you go to
romp it it out of the hole and it falls on its face your already beat , those accelerator pump settings have to , jive . better fat than lean for a bit until your *** feels it. that's why a lot of guys start with vaccum secondairies I prefer mechanical but raced snow mobiles for a long time wich came down to setting jetts and clutch shift points were real important , not to get out of your power range , but don't over power either and too lean you burned it up. I am at the same point with my new motor now so played with timing and went from a vacuum secondairies 750 built to mechanical 700 built because my *** feels the speed , now im going for the gears .Then kinda start over , tony could explane it a little better because he does it a lot , in difff weather and altitudes . Just stay safe and HAVE FUNN . MOST OF US ARE WANNA BEE"S Im an adrenalin JUNKIE and my car is named BAD MEDICINE my passenger is BON SCOTT
 

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69dodgedart360 said:
In this run I ran I think it was 13.71 at 101 and I stalled it up to about 1500 and floored it. Very soft launch with this converter, but its a 2400rpm converter, what do you expect.
Click to expand...

Try not footbraking it quite as high and just let it flash to 2400. Like 1,000 RPm or just over.
 
"If they are SS spring, the Right rear fender should be higher then the Left rear."

Depends on how you crank the torsion bars. You can get a car with SS springs to sit level if you are willing to adjust the torsion bars accordingly.
 
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