Fixing/replacing broken console pins

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plugger340

plugger340

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Has anyone dealt with missing or broken pins on consoles?
One pin is broken almost at the base of the console and another pin is missing (it was like that when I removed the console).
Thanks in advance for your replies

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I'm currently installing a new console and I am nervous about breaking these new pins off. If I had one broken like yours I think I would try JB Weld or, if there is enough metal thickness behind, I might ditch the broken post and carefully drill a small short hole and use a self tapping screw.
 
Qwiglee said:
I'm currently installing a new console and I am nervous about breaking these new pins off. If I had one broken like yours I think I would try JB Weld or, if there is enough metal thickness behind, I might ditch the broken post and carefully drill a small short hole and use a self tapping screw.
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Thanks, I don’t think JB Weld would hold the broken pin when turning the speed nut, and I’m leery about drilling into the metal and using a self tapping screw.
It might work if I JB Weld 2 headless machine screws into drilled holes, with nuts to snug it down.
Has anyone done something similar?
 
Unfortunately I don't think it can be repaired 100%. I've had a similar experience . Tried to spot weld along with other ideas such as glues, jb weld etc. Nothing worked permanently. You have nothing to lose by trying. If only one peg missing I wouldn't stress too much over it. It will be fine.
Good luck with it.
 
I ultimately did break one peg when installing my new console and I decided to just leave it and not try and repair it.
As a side note: The repro console has terrible pegs that are all irregular sizes so I couldn't use any of the original speed nuts. I decided to thread them and use real hex nuts. Some of the pegs took a 4-40 screw thread, some took 6-32 and some 8-32.

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EDIT FOUND IT READ THIS!!!

Printed circuit pins repair

Today when I removed the dashboard I managed to break of two pins. :oops: And I wonder if it can be repaired? If so have anyone of you any ideas? Would greatly appreciate some input how to repair them. Have one idea to solder the pins back and secure them like this.
www.forabodiesonly.com



There used to be a very good thread on this, but the photos were posted with photophucket, if you remember THAT debacle.

Some guys have cleaned the old pins, which are hollow, and resoldered them by inserting wire inside for support

Others have found solid core wire (maybe 16ga? check that) and just used the wire for a new pin

Others have used machine screws and nuts

I went a different route on my 67. So many were loose/ damaged/ corroded, I simply scraped a small area of the trace that was handy, and added a short wire pigtail, then connected the pigtails to a molex style connector. You can use any kind of connector you wish.

67clusterrepair-jpg-jpg.1715098385



WHAT YOU NEED AND WHAT YOU DO NOT WANT

You DO NOT WANT any sort of hardware store "plumbing" solder and or flux. The flux is ACIDIC, and the solder is way too large and silver bearing.

You WANT to find some ROSIN flux which is getting harder to find. I don't care for the consistency of this stuff, but this rosin paste is easy to get and works ok. Find yourself some old school LEAD based such as Kester electronics/ radio/ tv rosin core solder.

 
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Qwiglee said:
I ultimately did break one peg when installing my new console and I decided to just leave it and not try and repair it.
As a side note: The repro console has terrible pegs that are all irregular sizes so I couldn't use any of the original speed nuts. I decided to thread them and use real hex nuts. Some of the pegs took a 4-40 screw thread, some took 6-32 and some 8-32.

View attachment 1716427426

View attachment 1716427427
Click to expand...
Thanks, the two back posts are broken so I have to do something. I plan to drill 1/4” or more into the broken stud base and epoxy #6 stainless steel headless machine screws into the holes, and use washers and nuts to tighten it down. If that fails, I’ll drill into the tail end of console’s grove from the top and then countersink one stainless steel machine screw. There’s enough space on the underside of the console to fasten the screw with a nut before I add the ashtray assembly.
 
About a 1/5 of the reviews on muggy weld were negative so I went ahead and drilled 3/8” into the broken off studs and expoxied in the smallest and longest machine screws (with the heads cut off) that I could find, and then fastened the ashtray plate with nuts.
In hindsight I should have used longer thin stainless steel rods, and then threaded the ends as the machine screws were shorter than I would have liked.
My next problem is the front posts. The speed nuts are a loose fit on the posts. What should I do?
 
Maybe stating what you already considered, but I would look for different size speed nut or fastener type, there are individual or variety packs sold. Don’t know if you are open to this route, but in the past I have used push nuts like these to secure partially broken pins (too short for spread nut/but long enough remaining stud) on tail light bezels, while recognizing any future removal would not be easy, though second tubular type is not bad.

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I would drill a hole the size of a finish nail, both sides. 3m 8115 panel bond. Use a fast food straw too if you want some extra around it. Remove some of the material as needed
 
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