Floor pans. gulp...help...

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67cudaResto89

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In the process of doing the body on my 67 fish. Floor pans were rotted out so I ordered both the left and right side front to rear floor pans from amd. I've never welded or cut floor pans out before so I figured id get some advice before I start cutting stuff up. Any advice or a how to in a previous thread would be beyond helpful. Thanks way in advance. Sheet metal isn't cheap and I'm only trying to do this one time. Thanks!
 
What do you have for tools for starter.....A good mig welder, grinder . You will need some thing to cut the pans I used a cut off tool and a air chisel with sheet metal bit, or a thin cut off blade on a grinder works but is scary LOL Also the old pans are welded to certain parts of the frame areas if you have access to an air chisel with the spot welder remover bit, they work slick... Do a search for crackedback and look at his pans that he cut out you may get a good idea I pulled the steering column out cause I kept hitting my frigging head on it every time I moved...I also removed my brake and gas pedal.... remove the wring that goes down the car, The pans are spot welded along the right and and left hand sides.... The worse part for me was up where the lip fold over the foot well...mine was rotted pretty good and I had to fab a few pieces...But better than cutting them and parts them out....Also make sure you check your torsion mount area now is a good time to replace them. I belive crackedback has them for sale aswell
 
Yea my interior is completely gutted..and I have all the tools just picked up a lincoln 140 welder with a tank of gas.whoever had the car last tried to rivet sheetmetal into the floors then they bolted the front frame rails in...yes with nuts and bolts...it was a completel hackjob. I believe the torsion mount area is ok but I have rot on the drivers side frame rail so I have to replace that as well along with the floors.I alsoam going to have to fab some pieces into the top of the fotwell area and a little below the back seat
 
Oh boy will you be having some fun.... Hey I have the same welder I love it... Did you buy an auto darkening helmet, I have a chepy works good....
 
They key is to take your time,and practice spot welding.Get your self a spot weld cutter and a center punch.Also you will need a cut off tool and some disc.Your are not trying to take the pan out and save it, so it will come out alot easier.Take the pan out in pieces if you have to.
Jim
 
If you are replacing stuff, grind the welds out that are attaching the panels. Set them in and mark the current pans so you don't cut welds out that are not covered by the replacement panels.

I only use spot weld cutters if I plan on re-using a panel.

And as mentioned, take your time.
 
That's one thing I have to pick up is a spot weld cutter. I'm not reusing the pans so I could prob just grind the welds down til I get the cutter. I have all the necessary tools I'm an auto tech so I have my arsenal of tools lol.. should I just spot weld the pans in or should I do solid welds I'm sure the spot weld would be much easier since this is my first floor pan job.another thing after I get all the panels welded in should I use seam sealer around the seams and I'm planning on using some pretty loud exhaust any opinions on the dynamat?
 
set the car level. Do you plan to cut the whole pan out or just where your feet go? Do one side at a time other wise if you do cut the whole pan out you need to look into bracing the car. Alot of structure in those pans. Spot weld cutter, good air chisel, hammers. Good luck its fun.
 
I'm going to do one side at a time I have full half floor pans from front to rear. The tunnel hump is not getting cut out. Thanks for the info guys
 
I just started today replacing the front pans in my 68 dart and will say that the pans are a nice fit on my trial fitment.Did you start on yours yet?
 

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im in need of doing mine badly. ive got the front halfs, but i need he full sides for mine. bad news is i cant weld and i have no time to spare to learn or do them.
 
Check out my resto thread in my signature. Just did mine, way easier than I expected. Cut off wheel, if you dont have one harbor freights 25buck professional one works well. Angle grinder with grinding wheels, I didnt use an air chisel, just hammer and chisel. Cheaper and im less likely to go through something im not supposed to lol.
 
a 'blair" spot weld cutter only cuts thru the piece you are not going to reuse, you will like them...nice tool and the replacement cutters arent that expensive....two thumbs way up!
 
protect every piece of glass in the car and anything else that can catch fire,keep fire extinguisher handy,look underneath the car and plot out on the topside where brake and fuel lines are running so you don't cut thru them, when welding long runs stitch weld them kinda like tightening a wheel you go back and forth to keep from warping the metal
 
I got the driver rear welded in. Got the front cut out. It was muuuuch easier than I anticipated. After the first one gets knocked out each onegets easier.
 
Most spot weld you can just use a 1/4 standard drill bit.
Just dont go thru both panels.
 
protect every piece of glass in the car and anything else that can catch fire,keep fire extinguisher handy,look underneath the car and plot out on the topside where brake and fuel lines are running so you don't cut thru them, when welding long runs stitch weld them kinda like tightening a wheel you go back and forth to keep from warping the metal

Yes this is nice of waggs to point that out... you can ruin glass with hot metal. Ive seen this happen before.
 
Yes this is nice of waggs to point that out... you can ruin glass with hot metal. Ive seen this happen before.

I agree 100%
Not seen in that pic,but I was using shields to protect everything and also keep a fire ext. near by.I am also doing this outside in my driveway cause there is too much crap in my garage right now that can catch fire:angryfir:
But atleast the rest of the bottom of the car is really nice
 

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How are you doing with your floor pans?Paitience is the key to installing them as I found out.I just finished welding mine in last night and got the right side fender tacked up.I will be removing all the auto and console brackets as I am converting it over to a 4spd.
 

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i got the driver rear welded up fine. it definitely took some time. i have the passenger side cut out and the driver front cut out. i just welded my driver frame rail in and i'm just about done that i just have to pull it a 1/4 of an inch close to the torsion bar crossmember so i can finish welding it then i[m going to solid weld it jus to be sure. after that i'm gonna finish the driver side up then move on to the passenger side rail and floors. your pans look a hell out a lot better than mine its my first job so i'm not too worried about it as long as its safe.
 
I use a little Craftsman 110 mig with gas,been a damn good sheetmetal welder for the last 10 years and has welded up many a mopar sheetmetal.
I started working on the back of the car,back window,rocker and rear quarter.
 

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my back window is rotted out on thepassenger side in the corner what r u doin to fix ur window i got a lincoln 140 mig i have to pick up gas and buy a tank i'm doin this outside in a carport i'm just worried bout keeping the tank out there in the hot and cold somewhat of a newbie to all this any advice?
 
Once you switch over to using the gas you'll never use flux core wire again.Its a much cleaner weld especially on sheetmetal.The only issue you'll have outside is that you will have to shield out any air movement so the shielding gas stays where your welding.I don't think temps are a big deal as the shielding gas is not explosive.
The passenger side rear window area didn't need a lot of work but the driverside will and I will be cutting out a few sections and make new ones out of sheetmetal.
Doug
 

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