Floorpans - Best Replacement Option?

[matthon]

What's the best option here for me?

I bought the car in 2008, covered the holes with the stuff in the pics, there is sheet metal laid under the front sections, yes, I know.
I have since replaced every floor panel in a 62 Dart, with a welder.

Full pan replacement seems too drastic in this case, rockers, frames, supports, everything else front to back all solid with barely any surface rust.

I can make patches for the rear sections, holes are much smaller than the tape junk.
The fronts I would like to be nice and 'original.'

AMD full floor isn't far from the cost of the separate side pans, freight shipping is way more with L&R.
I could cut out what I need and not have to make any patches.

I was unaware that AMD does not make front pans. Looks like someone does, but not sure about quality and accuracy.

Buy a full pan and cut up, are there decent front pans available, or post a wanted ad for rust free parts car pans?

 

[66littlebigmopar]

What's the best option here for me?

I bought the car in 2008, covered the holes with the stuff in the pics, there is sheet metal laid under the front sections, yes, I know.
I have since replaced every floor panel in a 62 Dart, with a welder.

Full pan replacement seems too drastic in this case, rockers, frames, supports, everything else front to back all solid with barely any surface rust.

I can make patches for the rear sections, holes are much smaller than the tape junk.
The fronts I would like to be nice and 'original.'

AMD full floor isn't far from the cost of the separate side pans, freight shipping is way more with L&R.
I could cut out what I need and not have to make any patches.

I was unaware that AMD does not make front pans. Looks like someone does, but not sure about quality and accuracy.

Buy a full pan and cut up, are there decent front pans available, or post a wanted ad for rust free parts car pans?

View attachment 1716423737

View attachment 1716423738Buy beard roller there are some lesser priced ones on the market now. Buy a sheet and make your own. That's what I ended up doing years ago when there was repo available.

 

[matthon]

Bead roller, although I'm interested in learning bead rolling, even watched a few videos on it, including making beads without one, not sure it's a good fit at this time.
My brain will stew on it, I'm certain.

I'd like to keep the time expenditure to a minimum on this one, for reasons.
But yeah, thank you, thinking about all options.

 

[Inertia]

I recently got front floorplans from Rick@Laysons, he cut them off a full floor.

I'm just going to use pieces to fill the holes in the floor.

Hope you're feeling better Rick .

 

[matthon]

Laysons website, sounds like they carry the Sherman version of front floor patches.
I've used Sherman stuff before, a 4 speed hump for my 62 Dart, it was very nice.
Other places have it cheaper, Jegs w/ free shipping.

2" up on all sides will not completely cover what I need, which is the biggest negative.

Other things to consider, they are not 'exact' for any year, at that price 2 front pans are $200 away from a full AMD floor, but then have to factor in freight shipping.

Thank you, this all helps figure out the best route.

 

[Inertia]

Laysons website, sounds like they carry the Sherman version of front floor patches.
I've used Sherman stuff before, a 4 speed hump for my 62 Dart, it was very nice.
Other places have it cheaper, Jegs w/ free shipping.

2" up on all sides will not completely cover what I need, which is the biggest negative.

Other things to consider, they are not 'exact' for any year, at that price 2 front pans are $200 away from a full AMD floor, but then have to factor in freight shipping.

Thank you, this all helps figure out the best route.

View attachment 1716423875

Maybe for some stuff, mine were AMD, still had part of the sticker, and black

They cut them off a complete floor, very accommodating.

Outstanding service.

Good luck

 

[Plum Crazy 67]

I am just waiting to have the left and right floor pans for 1967 Barracuda delivered from AMD. The complete floor does not require replacement and there may be the choice to just replace the front sections that are bad. Final call will be made when I have a shop that can do the job but everyone is busy so it may have to wait until this fall or winter.

 

[JDMopar]

I think I would rather drill out spot welds and do a full floor pan than patching piecemeal. The worst part will be welding the pinch weld at the firewall if the motor and transmission is still in the car.

 

[340sFastback]

I did full AMD floor on my '69 Barracuda. Once old floor is out you have FULL access to inner rocker panels and other areas. Its a cleaner more thorough repair full floor vs patches.

 

[FM3 Dart]

Replacing the interior floor with a one piece AMD floor is the ideal way to do it. Much less welding than doing two half floors. Two half floors will require nearly 10 feet total of either butt welding, or lap welding to the trans tunnel. Lots of fitting, and a visible repair from below.
By taking out the whole floor, you now have full access to the inside of the torsion bar crossmember. This is a known problem area on A bodies, and being able to access, clean out, and make any necessary repairs is a major bonus to replacing the whole floor.
There is a boxed in area at the rear of the floor that overlaps the underseat pan. This is also a rust prone area. With the whole floor out, you have full access to take care of that area too.
Seeing that your car has a big smashed area on the right rear tunnel, that would be taken care of too.
But either way, it isn't a job for a novice. Let someone with experience handle it. There is a reason why auto body repair is a minimum 3 year apprenticeship before doing serious repair like unibody structural panel replacement.

 

[matthon]

I think I would rather drill out spot welds and do a full floor pan than patching piecemeal

Once old floor is out you have FULL access to inner rocker panels and other areas. Its a cleaner more thorough repair full floor vs patches.

I agree, yet I'm having a tough time justifying it on this car.

The holes from the front footwells back are very minor. I actually found terrible pics I took in 2008 when I first pulled the carpet.
Passenger side had more pinholes than are visible.

A few weeks ago I did some stuff to it for Power Tour, including pulling the interior, hence the above pics.
Now I'm rethinking stuff and it's a mine as well scenario.
Plus, got a 10% off coupon in the goody bag.

Have to remember, we drive the heck out of this car, can't be without it while we ponder.

OK, so I've done this before on my 62 Dart, everything from cowl, firewall, frame, floors, UCA mounts, you name it.

Undecided still, but since the full floor + freight is less than the R&L halves + freight, leaning towards the full floor.

I'll have to pull everything out and check the floors.

 

[matthon]

Agreed, welding in two halves is insane, just considering front pans areas.

Boxed in area, check, saw it from below.
Had this thing on my friend's lift a few weeks ago and was beating it with a pick.
It's dam solid, surprisingly, more surprising, didn't see the tunnel damage on the right side from below. Need to check that out.

Torsion cross member looks good.
Noticed the nice job the factory did, or someone later, on clearancing the cross member for the shifter rods.

Also, the firewall was clearanced where the Z bar lives. Z bar definitely needs the extra space, a little crude, but looks legit.
I snapped a few pics but got a new phone.
Didn't see that on an auto 67 car.

Anyone else got that on a factory 4 speed car?

 

[FM3 Dart]

Agreed, welding in two halves is insane, just considering front pans areas.

Boxed in area, check, saw it from below.
Had this thing on my friend's lift a few weeks ago and was beating it with a pick.
It's dam solid, surprisingly, more surprising, didn't see the tunnel damage on the right side from below. Need to check that out.

Torsion cross member looks good.
Noticed the nice job the factory did, or someone later, on clearancing the cross member for the shifter rods.

Also, the firewall was clearanced where the Z bar lives. Z bar definitely needs the extra space, a little crude, but looks legit.
I snapped a few pics but got a new phone.
Didn't see that on an auto 67 car.

Anyone else got that on a factory 4 speed car?

I am restoring a 340 4 speed 69 Swiner right now. It's on my rotisserie.

 

[matthon]

Is the firewall 'clearanced' for the Z bar?

 

[matthon]

What are these divits for?
My floor doesn't have them.

 

[FM3 Dart]

What are these divits for?
My floor doesn't have them.

View attachment 1716424019

AMD used the 72-76 floor for their stamping dies. Those divets are for the 1972-76 wiring to the seat belts. Aside from those and the holes for the front outer seat belt holes, the floors are identical for all 67-76 108" cars

 

[340sFastback]

AMD used the 72-76 floor for their stamping dies. Those divets are for the 1972-76 wiring to the seat belts. Aside from those and the holes for the front outer seat belt holes, the floors are identical for all 67-76 108" cars

I had to relocate the seat belt holes on the trans tunnel to match the location of my original floor. I had the old carpet laying around to use as a template. And of course seat belt bolt holes on rocker panel didn't match either. But other then seat belt bolt holes the floor fit well.

 

[glenn340]

I bought these for front pan replacements. Cheaper than buying the AMD half floor and only using the fronts. Good quality and good fitment. Match the factory details really well.

Mopar A-Body Front Floor Pan Set for Select 1967-1976 Vehicles - Made in USA! | eBay

 

[harrisonm]

What's the best option here for me?

I bought the car in 2008, covered the holes with the stuff in the pics, there is sheet metal laid under the front sections, yes, I know.
I have since replaced every floor panel in a 62 Dart, with a welder.

Full pan replacement seems too drastic in this case, rockers, frames, supports, everything else front to back all solid with barely any surface rust.

I can make patches for the rear sections, holes are much smaller than the tape junk.
The fronts I would like to be nice and 'original.'

AMD full floor isn't far from the cost of the separate side pans, freight shipping is way more with L&R.
I could cut out what I need and not have to make any patches.

I was unaware that AMD does not make front pans. Looks like someone does, but not sure about quality and accuracy.

Buy a full pan and cut up, are there decent front pans available, or post a wanted ad for rust free parts car pans?

View attachment 1716423737

View attachment 1716423738

Some close-up pictures of your floor pans would have been a little better, but what I see does not look bad. I would consider cutting out the rust and welding and patches. If, however, the rust is worse than what I am seeing, then reproduction floor pans would be a better way to go.

 

[Inertia]

I bought these for front pan replacements. Cheaper than buying the AMD half floor and only using the fronts. Good quality and good fitment. Match the factory details really well.

Mopar A-Body Front Floor Pan Set for Select 1967-1976 Vehicles - Made in USA! | eBay


View attachment 1716424108

Looks great, good job.

I'll be doing similar .

 

[volaredon]

I'm never going to be privileged to be able to restore anything rare or desirable as a "collectible".
I have 2 mopars not often seen these days (4 if you count the 2, 80s trucks)
That said, floor pans are hidden by padding, seats, carpet, maybe a console. Not readily seen at a cruise night, or even most judged car shows.
That said I've patched lots of floor pans with cut up 55 gallon drum lids (as in 2 days ago on my current truck cab project); cut up trunk lids, doors and hoods from other vehicles, street signs, and sometimes cut off of a sheet metal panel bought from the local metal yard. And it works just as well as buying actual "floor pans". That, that isn't readily seen, I use whatever I have on hand. Make it functional, sealed up tight and go onto the next issue. My 78 sport fury and my 80 volare don't need floor pan repair. The originals are just fine. But if I did I wouldn't sweat anything about putting exact replacement floor pans on these cars. I don't see any other cars like mine around anywhere anymore but that doesn't make them "desirable"/collectible ". Now if they needed a hood, trunk, quarter, door etc id want to replace those with what actually belongs. But floor pans? Naaaah

 

[volaredon]

Here's my floor pan patch in this 90 truck cab that's going onto my 83 D250 the rest was solid as new. Wasn't worth cutting the whole thing out for "that". I'm sure not gonna lose any sleep over knowing that part of my floor pan was once the lid on a 55 gallon drum that brought me ATF at work. And no, I'm obviously not done welding it in at the stage the pic was taken

 

[volaredon]

Though I did also cut out the trans tunnel and welded one in that I cut out of a local junkyard refugee as well. Not because of a rust problem with the original to this cab but just like when switching to a 4 speed on an A body from an automatic, you need more space underneath for the new transmission. And a 90 club cab with a good one happened to show up at the junkyard 6 miles from here ...
Remember and I have to remind everyone that IM NOT A BODY MAN. I'm about to hand this cab off to someone who is while I tend to the suspension rebuild on the frame.

 

[volaredon]

Id post these at the "sister" truck site but that site everyone sleeps, there's little action over there.... And what action there is, most are also members here anyway.

 

[matthon]

I've done the same, even screwed down patches, and back in high school we would make floors out of wood.

I replaced the floor on my 62 Dart with a new AMD floor, as well as donor upper/lower cowl, firewall, rear floor, trunk, torsion bar cross member, front frame rail, uca mounts, because there was nothing to patch.

Basically from one end of the spectrum to the other.

I don't want to cut out perfectly good metal or make it more difficult than it should be.

On the other side, part of me is a perfectionist, especially with this car, and I want it done 'right' as my daughter has laid claim to it.

All of the feedback helps.

I'll know more once I get a chance to pull up the mess I made back in 2008 and see what's really there.