Frame connector question

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shadango

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So if one were going to consider looking at a 73 Duster with a 383 in it that had been used at the strip a bit, how much would the fact that it had not had frame connectors put in factor into the car's value and condition?

Run away ? Or are there things to look for specifically?
 
are you going to continue to race the car or what?
 
With as much torque as a 383 can generate I would really check the frame for twist. As for adding or detracting on value the overall condition will dictate that.
 
If the doors don't close well or get hung up, I would not buy it. That is a sure sighn it has a bent frame. I would think it should be fine though unless he was realy hooking up hard with it at the track.
 
If the doors don't close well or get hung up, I would not buy it. That is a sure sighn it has a bent frame. I would think it should be fine though unless he was realy hooking up hard with it at the track.

or miss adjusted strikers or worn out hinges.
 
First of all; There is no "frame" to bend. Its a unibody! That's just a pet peeve of mine, along with calling a sure-grip, a Posi...its not.

Now, When the car loads up on launch, it will twist. Certainly, more without connectors than with. Will a stockish 383 cause a permament twist in the body? I really doubt it. Even a warmed over BB won't. If it does load up, it will staighten out after the load is off. Just bumpy roads and regular driving will cause just as much body twist.

I put frame connectors is every car I "do'. My preference Every car thats gone up and down the lift w/o frame connectors will twist. The doors will line up on the ground, raise it up, the doors bind and almost lock up. When frame connectors are installed correctly. then I align the doors. THEN...up and down the lift, no door opening issues.

I'd only run if it twisted so violently the front glass blew out all over the track!
 
If it's a hard top, you can sight down the C pillar where the 1/4 seam is on the driver's side. If there are sharply defined lumps (not associated with the seam)... if you see cracks in the filler around the front corners of the roof where the A pillar meets the roof panel, cracks in the sealer on the cowl/fenders... Slowly close the driver's door. If the catch hits the striker, pull up and down on the door to check the hinges. If the hignes are tight, there's a good chance the unibody is tweaked a little.
 
It probably is not a problem, but one place to check that will most likely be overlooked is where the left front frame rail is welded to the body. Look for torn spot welds.

You need a ton of torque PLUS traction to really cause a problem.
 
Thanks guys

Thinking about one that is a 6 cyl car converted to 383.....it has a driveshaft loop installed (home made) and a fuel cell (kind of jimmy rigged) so I know it has been at the track...no rame connectors.

brand new paint, and looks to be solid underneath from pics....

Wanted to know what to look for...this helps.
 
nothing wrong with a home made driveshaft loop, if done well. The fuel cell and cut out trunk would turn me off though. For a streetcar, its a bit of a pain. Personal preference though...

If you like it...buy it. Have fun.
 
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