Freakin' water outlet won't seal!

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Mopar to ya

Mopar to ya

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When I put the motor in I put in the reducer that was with the motor instead of a thermostat and it sealed just fine. When I redid the intake, I decided to put in a 160 degree thermostat. I used a gasket and 3M weatherstrip adhesive like I always do and it seeped coolant. I took it off and cleaned it off well, checked the outlet with a level, used our very good Motorcraft RTV and a gasket and reinstalled it. It leaked again. I took it off last night, went through the routine again, used more RTV than I normally would and reinstalled it. I didn't fill it until this morning so it could set up. I bled the air, watched the thermostat open, and went for a drive. The dang thing is leaking again. WTF? I am going to block sand the intake side next. Any ideas?
 
Nope. Along the lower edge. Not so much a leak as seeping. it's definitely coming from the intake side of the gasket. I used more RTV this time and I was sure it would seal.
 
i always sand the mating surface of the water neck on a block with 150 grit paper, even my chrome neck. this will get the mating surface perfectly flat.
 
Try Permatex The Rght Stuff gasket maker and follow the instructions. 1/8" bead is all you need.
 

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You said you checked the outlet for straightness, how about the manifold? Another thought... is the thermostat sitting all the way down in the recess for it?
 
LOTS of room for problems on stat housings

Are you using an aftermarket intake with two sets of bolt holes? These often overlap and cause trouble

Is the housing stamped steel or worse, cast pot metal? They BEND

I actually found a CAST IRON!!!! housing IN STOCK at O'Reallys

DON'T overtighten, which can bend the flange. Lay it on a flat surface, saw table/ straightedge and inspect.
 
We used to use the Right Stuff here at the shop, but the Motorcraft stuff is the best we ever found. I can't get a level on the intake, as it's too crowded. The water outlet is perfectly level. I am going to try a sanding block on the intake to level it.
 
Just throw the POS gaskets away and use straight red RTV.
Works every time and can be driven immediatly.

This is the way I do it EVERY TIME, and NEVER had a leak.
 
My intake seeped oil at the front rail seals when I got the car and straight RTV replaced that seal also.
73AbodEE said:
xs2. i dont use a gasket either. straight RTV
Click to expand...
 

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A photo might help. You should state the engine. Everyone started guessing a small block. You later mention "intake side", so must be.

My water outlet leaked slightly on my 273 rebuild. I suspected the chrome outlet since others said not all are straight. After removing it, I suspected the extra holes in the Edelbrock Performer intake were the culprit (as 67Dart273 suggests), since they span the gasket. I installed stainless set screws and covered them w/ RTV to make a level gasket surface. I also switched to a thicker gasket that came with another outlet I got (FABO recommendation) but didn't use since the chrome one seemed fine. I coated both sides of the gasket and the bolt threads with gasket sealant (purple, stays sticky). No leaks, so either the setscrews or the thicker gasket worked. The weatherstrip adhesive idea is new to me.
 
If your using rtv you must wait for it to cure 24 hrs then fill system and than you can start it.
 
BillGrissom said:
A photo might help. You should state the engine. Everyone started guessing a small block. You later mention "intake side", so must be.

My water outlet leaked slightly on my 273 rebuild. I suspected the chrome outlet since others said not all are straight. After removing it, I suspected the extra holes in the Edelbrock Performer intake were the culprit (as 67Dart273 suggests), since they span the gasket. I installed stainless set screws and covered them w/ RTV to make a level gasket surface. I also switched to a thicker gasket that came with another outlet I got (FABO recommendation) but didn't use since the chrome one seemed fine. I coated both sides of the gasket and the bolt threads with gasket sealant (purple, stays sticky). No leaks, so either the setscrews or the thicker gasket worked. The weatherstrip adhesive idea is new to me.
Click to expand...

Surely everyone knows this motor and tranny by now. :) 408 Stroker and the outlet sits on an Edelbrock RPM manifold. Weatherstrip adhesive is all most shops use. Very common in a shop environment. I am going to block sand the intake and try just plain RTV. Gotta try something.

View attachment t stat.jpg
 
the last one i did 6 months ago, i sanded both mating surfaces, insert thermostat, a thin good layer of permatex, on both sides , let them set up for 10 minutes , install neck , and tightened the bolts , but not too much, filled it with coolant right away, and to this day it has not leaked.
 
Mopar to ya said:
Surely everyone knows this motor and tranny by now. :) 408 Stroker and the outlet sits on an Edelbrock RPM manifold. Weatherstrip adhesive is all most shops use. Very common in a shop environment. I am going to block sand the intake and try just plain RTV. Gotta try something.

View attachment 315486
Click to expand...
let your RTV set for about 15min before putting the neck on then titen to about 5ft ponds wipe your finger around it should be race ready :cheers::cheers:...........artie
 
I've never had good luck sealing a chrome cover. If I need the chrome look, I'll sand off the bottom so there is no chrome left on it and then seal the thing. I like the cast iron ones....problem free.
 
I fill and run it to full system pressure as soon as I get it back together.
And no, it does'nt take me 24 hrs to put the hose and clamp back on.:D
Maybe 3 min.

Arco440 said:
If your using rtv you must wait for it to cure 24 hrs then fill system and than you can start it.
Click to expand...
 
I have three gaskets on mine with a 1/2 restricter , no leaks no seaping .
 

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Indian Head both sides, downside is you need a 8 pound sledge to remove it next time. :toothy8:
 
Dusted72, Corey bought a stainless t-stat housing a while back. I think it was off eBay, check with him. In the picture he posted, it looked well made.
 
67dart273 said:
is the housing stamped steel or worse, cast pot metal? They bend

i actually found a cast iron!!!! Housing in stock at o'reallys

don't overtighten, which can bend the flange. Lay it on a flat surface, saw table/ straightedge and inspect.
Click to expand...

x2
 
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