breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Im trying to drop some weight on my 65 dart. I'd like to swap to a fiberglass front bumper. I found a company that sells 66 dart front bumpers and I wonder what the difference is between a 65 and 66 dart front bumper?
Front bumper on a 65 dart
- Thread starter breakstuff
- Start date
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pishta
I know I'm right....
They're different bro....
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Does look different. If its wide enough I could make it fit.
Anybody with a 66 dart, can you measure the inside width of your front bumper from the drivers side to the passenger side.
Anybody with a 66 dart, can you measure the inside width of your front bumper from the drivers side to the passenger side.
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Pretty please......... I really want to drop 200 pounds off the car.......any bit helps
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Just measured the front bumper on my 66 Dart. I got 64-1/2". It's bolted on the car though, so that may not be the most accurate measurement.
The weight savings can come from all disc brakes, using aftermarket aluminum kits with street rotors for at least the front. The stock hood is HEAVY. Glass is hard to find, but would be worth the trouble if you can find a good one. You can ditch the crossing hood springs and adapt piston rods to open the hood, just pin the front with hood pins and be sure and brace the edges of the hood so as not to crack the fiberglass from the pressure of the piston rods. These cars have an extra long wheel base, and too little weight out back. Putting the battery in the trunk is worth the trouble if you are looking for traction. Just be sure and wire it per NHRA if you ever plan on going to the track! I used a morse cable to a disconnect switch so the shutoff could be at the rear and the switch up front, which allows hooking the alternator positive wire to the battery side of the switch, making it NHRA legal. Shutoff is needed in the rear, must also break the alternator connection to the ignition/chassis. Obviously picking the right wheel and tires will help. Beyond those items, it is hard to find places to reduce weight without sacrificing something. I suppose you could remove all the window cranking mechanisms and bolt the windows in solid, if you don't mind the windows can never open.
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
pretty much did all that. I lopped 100 pounds already. Thanks
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Thanks I needed that.
Valiant63
Early A-body Valiants
switch to an aluminum master cylinder and if you have power steering dump it and get manual steering. Anything aluminum that you can put on the engine to replace cast iron will of course help. If you're using your stock good for now, cut off the bracing underneath, but if you do that you need to weaken your torsion hood springs by heating them up somewhat with a torch. Use as small of a radiator as you can get away with. Remove the splash guards from inside the fenders. A bench seat is lighter than Factory bucket seats. or go with some racing seats. Scrape off any undercoating that you can find. Find an aluminum Driveshaft in a junkyard and have it made to fit your car. Remove the headliner and the carpet and all the jute backing. I think somebody already mention to replaced the heavy steel bumper brackets with some lightweight aluminum brackets or with some pipe hanging material. What else??
For a really good traction enhancement, moving the rear axle forward is worth gold in terms of traction. If you don't mind the loss of the back seat, A move of six inches looks like factory stock and ladder bars lighten up the car more yet. Check out the profile of my drag car with a six in move. Since you are going to have to shorten the driveshaft, any amount you can move the engine back is also worth the trouble. Even a half inch moves 600 lbs enough to make a difference.
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