Front end suspension kit

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68er

68er

68Dart GT
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I ordered the full super Front End Kit for our 68 Dart from PST

Now I have a question cause I have not replaced these parts before on a Dodge all at one time...

My friend is helping me and he suggested that the Torsion Bars have to be taken out in order to replace the suspension parts.

I am baffled about this thinking that if anything just backing off the torsion and relaxing them would be enough...

Can you give me some advice on this subject..

This task will be performed on a nice host... so access is great

thanks in advance
 
If you are replacing lower control arm bushing....and strut rod bushing....torsion bar will need to be knocked out....

not that hard to do...
 
You can't get the lower arm bushing without taking the arm out and to do that you'll need to back the torsion bars out a few inches. Here's a tip...
Mark everything first so you can get them back in properly the first time. Hex shapes will go together a bunch of ways but only one is correct.
 
Read up on the procedure in the factory service manual. It will save you time and headaches in the long run.
 
and don't torque the lower bushings until the car is sitting on the suspension.
 
Are there any good writeups on this? I hopefully will be doing this soon. I want to convert to disc's plus rebuild the front end at the same time.
 
moparclown said:
and don't torque the lower bushings until the car is sitting on the suspension.
Click to expand...

Good info there! The guy that did mine wasn't a Mopar guy and I believe the torsion bars are mixed up side to side and possibly front to back. There is some creaking and popping when I back out of my driveway which I am sure is caused by the lower control arms being tightened when the car was hanging on the hoist. Now I need to do some of it over. tmm
 
Doublecheck your strut rod nuts, when it pops going in reverse the frame is likely moving front to back. The original mopar part had a steel sleeve in the bushing.
When I got my kit from PST, no sleeve was Included. I don't like that part of their kits. I had to use the old ones. Also, you might raise the car up, loosen the lower A frame nut, and give it ten minutes or so. then let it down again and tighten.
it helped mine.
 
There are 24 ways to install a set of torsion bars, but only 12 are correct. So long as you keep in mind they are handed (left and right) you'll be fine.

Leave UCA and LCA pivot bushing nuts finger tight until you have weight on wheels and the ride height set, then torque to spec.

Download any A-body factory service manual for reference.
 
C130 Chief said:
There are 24 ways to install a set of torsion bars, but only 12 are correct. So long as you keep in mind they are handed (left and right) you'll be fine.

Leave UCA and LCA pivot bushing nuts finger tight until you have weight on wheels and the ride height set, then torque to spec.

Download any A-body factory service manual for reference.
Click to expand...

Yep....and the same goes for the lower shockie bolt/nut too.
 
Are we going to run into an issue getting the lower control arm out. ? My buddy emailed me saying that all will go fine but he might have a problem getting the LCA out...

Is there something tough about getting the LCA's out ? lol


I have a chilton book 65 - 72 Dart Demon manual and it shows some decent detail. This book was published in 1973.
 
68er said:
Are we going to run into an issue getting the lower control arm out. ? My buddy emailed me saying that all will go fine but he might have a problem getting the LCA out...

Is there something tough about getting the LCA's out ? lol


I have a chilton book 65 - 72 Dart Demon manual and it shows some decent detail. This book was published in 1973.
Click to expand...


The suspension on these old girls is a lot different from what todays vehicles have.
Every part can be easy or difficult.
Rusted eccentric bolts through upper arm bushing is a common problem.
Threads at upper arm ball joint hole can be a issue.
Splitting the ball joints, especially the lowers, from the spindles can be difficult. There are methods to tear down and reassemble that can make it a little easier. Those methods, found with practice, are often shared on the web.
 
Like RedFish said methods and results may vary...
I had no problem getting LCAs out, but the bushings were a bit of a challenge to remove... (See post 48 in my build thread)
I recall seeing posts about the kits, LCA bushings included may be rubber, poly or both. I think the bushing shells stay in if you use the poly. Also with rubber, they to be pressed back together

68er said:
Are we going to run into an issue getting the lower control arm out. ? My buddy emailed me saying that all will go fine but he might have a problem getting the LCA out...

Is there something tough about getting the LCA's out ? lol


I have a chilton book 65 - 72 Dart Demon manual and it shows some decent detail. This book was published in 1973.
Click to expand...
 
Well the Super PST front end kit is installed.

All went well with a little challenge getting the bolts out of the upper control arms..

PB Blasted them and a few taps finally was enough to turn em out.

PST products were a great fit and would buy from them again.
 
1973_Scamp said:
And remember to grease them all before install and torque.
Click to expand...

What should be greased??

68er said:
Well the Super PST front end kit is installed.

All went well with a little challenge getting the bolts out of the upper control arms..

PB Blasted them and a few taps finally was enough to turn em out.

PST products were a great fit and would buy from them again.
Click to expand...

Glad it went well, Im doing my LCA's and bushings...what a pain in the arse!! I wish my welding skills were better or woulda done the washer trick.
PST stiffening plates will be going on tomorrow.
Any issues with your install??
A hoist Mmmmmm:prayer:
 
4spdragtop said:
What should be greased??



Glad it went well, Im doing my LCA's and bushings...what a pain in the arse!! I wish my welding skills were better or woulda done the washer trick.
PST stiffening plates will be going on tomorrow.
Any issues with your install??
A hoist Mmmmmm:prayer:
Click to expand...

only issue we had was the upper control arm bolts.. the nuts flew off right away however the bolts were not moving under the gun. We pushed the control arm up as high as we could get it and soaked the bolts good. Overnight soaking and a few hard taps seemed to budge the rust in the bolt shaft enough the gun finally spun them out.

The rest of the install went fine with no hiccups.

The kit was complete and fit like a charm....

Next up is alignment with an old school mechanic... :cheers:
 
Good to know on the PST kit, I'm gonna order one in the near future. spoke with James last week to confirm the kit had everything I needed/wanted. Really good price too.
 
zkx14 said:
Anyplace the poly touches metal. (Unless they specifically say not to, don't recall if any exceptions) Use the 'super goo' grease in the kit , not regular bearing grease.
Click to expand...

Ok, I went with standard(non poly) stuff.

krazykuda said:
The ends of the torsion bars need to be greased.
Click to expand...

Thanks Karl!

68er said:
only issue we had was the upper control arm bolts.. the nuts flew off right away however the bolts were not moving under the gun. We pushed the control arm up as high as we could get it and soaked the bolts good. Overnight soaking and a few hard taps seemed to budge the rust in the bolt shaft enough the gun finally spun them out.

The rest of the install went fine with no hiccups.

The kit was complete and fit like a charm....

Next up is alignment with an old school mechanic... :cheers:
Click to expand...

Awesome, glad it went well!
 
68er said:
Next up is alignment with an old school mechanic... :cheers:
Click to expand...

Great. You may want to consider using alignment settings that reflect the reality of present tire construction than the factory settings. This will raise steering effort and sharpen turn-in. PM me if you have any concerns or questions.
 

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