Front turn signals does not work

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1973dusterkid

1973dusterkid

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OK so my turn signal in the grill and on the top of the finder doesn't work the rear dose tho.When you pull on the wires they work for a little bit,So its a connection issue I know that but were do I start.
 
I had the same issue..try them while its running and turn the ket back as far as you can without actually shutting the car off.....works every time for me.
 
If you "pull on the wires" and it affects the problem, you have already come close to finding the problem. WHERE physically are you doing this pulling?
 
Probably a loose ground connection. The front signal fixtrues are grounded to the radiator support.
 
+2 on the ground. I had my driver front go out and that's what it was. There is a little eye loop with 3 or 4 black wires coming out. Mine is bolted right where the corner of the battery is closest to the radiator support. Could be the socket too, my driver rear had some corrosion in it causing it to flake out sometimes.
 
X3 on the ground. Those grilles are plastic so there needs to be an actual ground wire from the signal housing to the body. To see if that's the problem, use a jumper wire (or battery jumper cable) to jump across to a good ground.
 
Well checked the ground its all good and the other two wires (A black and yellow and a black and green wire) running off the turn signals are getting no power I checked and cant find power anywhere to them so Im stuck.
 
I am making a new harness right now, using a harness from a 73 or 74 Dart. The blk-yell wire is the "running lights" or "parking lights". The blk-lt grn wire is the left turn light, which should also branch to a separate "fender indicator". The former is a 2-blade 56-terminal connector, and the later a single bullet connector. With a multi-meter measure the voltage between the terminal and battery negative.

If nothing at the connector, you have to go back to the firewall. All the light wires are on the same bulkhead connector. You can squeeze and pull the 56 terminal male spades out to sand them (search web). The female terminals can be cleaned by wiggling a small screwdriver in the slot and spraying contact cleaner.
 
1973dusterkid said:
Well checked the ground its all good and the other two wires (A black and yellow and a black and green wire) running off the turn signals are getting no power I checked and cant find power anywhere to them so Im stuck.
Click to expand...

First question is, "do you have a shop manual?"

Usable diagrams here:


http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18

73 Dustable:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantB.jpg

The signal and park power comes out of the bulkhead connector, so probe that and see if you have power there. If not, it is most probably a problem right there at the firewall connector

AN ASIDE:

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The wiring for the side markers "looks" complicated, but it's simple. THERE IS NO ground for the side marker lamps, here is how they work

One side of the side marker is connected to the park light circuit

The other side of the lamp is connected to the turn signal.

With park lamps on, turn signals off, the side marker gets power from the park circuit, and "goes to ground" through the unpowered signal lamp filament, so the side marker lights up, a much smaller bulb wattage than the park or signal lamp

With the park / headlights ON, and you turn on the turn signal, the side marker LIGHTS when the signal lamp is OUT, again grounding through the filament of the unlit signal bulb. But with the signal lamp LIT, now we have power at both sides of the marker lamp connection, so the marker goes OUT while the signal lamp is LIT

Now, with the park lamps OFF (daytime) we have the OPPOSITE condition. When you turn on the turn signal, and the signal lamp is LIT, power is applied from the signal circuit to one side of the marker lamp, and it "gets ground" through the now UNLIT filament of the park lamps, and so the marker lamp lights
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Now, just what have you checked? Remove the park/ signal lamps from their sockets, and CAREFULLY probe the socket with a test lamp. Tape up the lamp probe to help prevent shorting, and make sure you have a good ground at the clip of the test lamp. If necessary, make an extension clip lead up so you can ground the test lamp back at the battery or block.

If you don't see power at the socket(s) go back to the bulkhead.

What have you done to "check the ground?"

Turn on the park lamps, and if you have power at the socket, install the bulb, wiggle it around. Now take your grounded test lamp, and "stab" the probe right at the side of the socket. If the test lamp lights, the socket is NOT grounded.

This is a SIMPLE circuit. You have three wires to run the entire show.

The park light power comes from the headlight switch, runs through the bulkhead, and "y's" off to each park light bulb

The front signal power comes out of the column connector from the signal switch, "y's" off to the instrument panel indicators for left and right, and goes through the bulkhead, through the lighting harness, and up front to the connectors for the sockets.
 
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