mopowers
Well-Known Member
Probably a stupid question, but what's wrong with the way the factory ran them?
Fuel line routing through front fender well
- Thread starter rmchrgr
- Start date
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rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
The factory routing puts the fuel line exactly where the "rule book" says it shouldn't be - along the inner frame rail next to the trans bellhosuing. Right or wrong, factory methodology does not necessarily equate to what is in the rule book.
I actually had it the OE way before and I never got hassled about it so maybe this exercise is a little overkill. You could even go so far as to interpret the rule as being for cars with manual transmissions only since the text clearly says "flywheel" which would not apply to me at all. Problem is, the wording is vague and there's always going to be the one guy who does not know you and wants to enforce the rules the way he interprets them.
Case in point - one guy almost wouldn't let me run one time because of the factory RF brake line on the firewall. He said it either had to be covered with spring guard completely or moved. I said it's 100% untouched factory stock, what do you want me to do? He said OK but next time it has to have the gravel guard or be moved or I couldn't race.
The car is going to be faster now and consequently it has a roll bar. A tech guy is going to see that and start looking at things a little more closely. The closest track to me is 2 1/2 hrs. away. I'd hate to get up at the crack of dawn, drive all that way and get bounced before making a pass. Based on my brake line story above, it's not that far fetched. Better safe than sorry.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
You probably have enough answers on this already but a couple things come to mind that is, one being you don't want that in the wheel well if you pick up anything from the road and pop the line now you've got gas spring all over the wheel well, and header... and two you generally want to keep it on the inside of the frame. If OE is an acceptable then maybe bring it up into the car on the passenger side somewhere along the side of the passenger seat and maybe make yourself a flat tunnel 'similar to whats there for the wiring on the driver side...then come up and out the fire wall near inner fender.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Looks like the factory location would suffice per NHRA as long as it's either steel braided or protected by steel tubing (from 2021 NHRA rule book).
That does look nice. I believe though, I would have routed the line into the frame rail rather than on the outside. But nonetheless, you got it done.
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
I’m using a 904 trans. Rarely, if ever do you hear about them violently exploding at the drags. I’m sure it has happened but I don’t recall ever reading about it occurring in any sort of dramatic fashion.
OTOH, 727s do have more of a tendency to blow up. At the level most of are at though I’d say not enough to ever be concerned about. The rule is for that one stupid time it could happen even though for 99% of the people racing Chryslers that would be never.
Regardless of what the rules say, would you trust “steel braided hose” to be sufficient protection against a wayward ring gear? Or, would you want to figure out how to facilitate installing a 16” length of 1/8” wall steel pipe in that area?
Again, I‘m not interested in fabricating some sort of shield just to be able to run the line through that spot. It is pretty tight quarters next to the torsion bar mount. It’s also right next to the header collector which radiates heat. Nothing like cooking your fuel inside a heavy steel tube before it gets to the throttle body. Again, no method is perfect.
I will also argue that the factory routing does in fact expose the line to road debris to some degree. (Ok steel hard line vs. flex hose with aluminum fittings but it’s not a big stretch.) I’d say it’s especially true where it crosses under the right rear frame rail and from the outer pinch weld to the inner frame rail. Where it runs along the inner frame into the engine bay there is nothing between it and the road. Can you justify saying that one 6” section of hose I have in the wheel well is any more susceptible to damage than the OE line?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
All good points. I was strictly looking at from a standpoint of why over-complicate it? Either way, you got it done, so that's all that matters. Nice work as always!!
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
I over-complicate EVERYTHING, it's what I do. When you have a brain like mine that considers all the angles and the pros and cons of each possibility, every detail becomes all-consuming. Analysis=paralysis.
I see you've already made your choice - and you sure have a much nicer car than mine!! You mocked up a line similar to what I have but only better. I went ahead and took some pics of mine just to close the loop and show what I have. The previous pics I posted show what it looks like from the top side. These are from the wheel well side. Again, I like this as it minimizes the heat exposure to the fuel in the lines.
Good luck with your car - I'm sure its going to be great! Here's the pics...
I installed the steel pipe. Like rmchrgr I went through all kinds of mental gymnastics trying to figure out how to run my supply and return lines correctly. Finally bit the bullet and decided to run the 16” of pipe. Crappy part is the track has inspector’s have never looked at…
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Food for thought
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
There you go, thanks DemonX2 and Jeremiah. Presumably you both drive your cars on the street?
For my own edification, I spent an hour trying to bend a hard line to fit in this spot and it's definitely a no-go. No way to get the bends tight enough.
Here's the better-fitting hose.
For my own edification, I spent an hour trying to bend a hard line to fit in this spot and it's definitely a no-go. No way to get the bends tight enough.
Here's the better-fitting hose.
I have a dumb question...
Why not run it inside the frame rail.
Why not run it inside the frame rail.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I drive my car on the stree year round as weather permits. The Aeroquip Push-lok is my all time favorite, especially after I bought and assembly tool from Kool Tools. If you are running an electric pump I suggest a low fuel pressure switch interrupting the ground on the swithcing side of the fuel pump relay. In the case of a mishap the loss of pressure will deny power to the pump.
I avoid using fittings in the wheel well because they will snap off right away in an impact.
I avoid using fittings in the wheel well because they will snap off right away in an impact.
6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
Mine with a Hemi was to close to the big tube headers. Especially, with the diameter of a #12 line.
Yes I do drive mine on the street more than you'd think. The line is pretty tight to the inside of the wheelwell - the pic may not show that too well. The line is one long one from the pump by the rear axle all the way to the regulator on the inner fender so no connections until the regulator. It enters the bottom of the regulator straight on so no bend needed up there.
Yours looks great - certainly more elegant than mine.
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