Fuel Sender Connector Replacement

-
rymanrph

rymanrph

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2013
Messages
413
Reaction score
75
Location
North Carolina
My gas gauge hasn't worked since I bought the car and I decided if I was going to drive it, I needed it to work. I determined that the gauge wasn't bad by grounding out the wire before the sender and the needle moved. I figured the sender was bad so I ordered a new one and proceeded to install it tonight.

As I was hooking everything back up, the connector for the ground broke off (terrible picture I know).

IMG_20150504_204514294_zpsqzv0g29c.jpg


Can I splice on a ring terminal and secure it with a nut since the stud is threaded or do I really need to have it insulated? Obviously, I can't re-splice this one since it broke right at the connector. It's possible that it was already about to break off and that's why my gauge wasn't working, but I'll never know.
 
Sure the wire could have been broken a very long time.
You really cant tighten hardware on the bulkhead type electrical terminal. If it turned at all this would leak.
If this problem was in my face and I needed to get'er done and gone...
The terminal on the temp sender is pretty much the same. It might be slightly shorter.
I would put that one under the car just to get out from under. Replacing terminal at the temp sender is a LOT easier. The more common 90 degree insulated terminals without the weather boot would work. I would prefer a weather booted terminal with di-electric lube inside under the car though.
Got butt connectors, striper, crimper, heat shrink ? Setting heat shrink near fuel vapors requires extreme caution.
 
I found this part number Dorman 85845, but Autozone and O'Reilly's can get it (well O'Reilly's can, but shipping is $16). I can get it for about $5 on Amazon, but I won't know if it will work until I try it and if it doesn't work, I'd like to be able to return it locally.

I also found this part number at Napa ECH EC104, but it's over $13 just for the part.
 
I have that length of wire from the harness of a 68 fastback. It is from the fuel sender to the trunk connector. You're welcome to it for the cost to send it..
 

rymanrph said:
I found this part number Dorman 85845, but Autozone and O'Reilly's can get it (well O'Reilly's can, but shipping is $16). I can get it for about $5 on Amazon, but I won't know if it will work until I try it and if it doesn't work, I'd like to be able to return it locally.

I also found this part number at Napa ECH EC104, but it's over $13 just for the part.
Click to expand...
I think I would take the broken end you have and see if it fits the lighter pin on a 1982 to 1997 GM vehicle. You must know some poor, unenlightened soul with a GM vehicle.
 
The NAPA part didn't work; the pin was too large for the plug, so I'll return it and wait for the piece from Rocky_JS.
 
Bump.
Has anyone found a source for the connector new?
I'm looking.
I'll try the Dorman if possible.
Correct search terms for this type of connector?
Push on.
I think the engine sending units would be the same type.
 
It might. Looking at my original engine harness I noticed the brake warning connector looked the same as the orginal fuel sending connector. (1967)
Most repop harnesses come with a connector that looks like the SMP S635 you linked.
Need to measure the stud on both the stop switch and the fuel sender to see if they are the same diameter.

IMG_9168.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Similar threads

D
5 ohm resistor on temp sender wire?
Replies
5
Views
350
str12-340
str12-340
T
Whats the push-on connector for the fuel sender, or thread size?
Replies
4
Views
250
halifaxhops
halifaxhops
MadScientistMat
Weighing options to fix my gas gauge
Replies
5
Views
239
MadScientistMat
MadScientistMat
1MeanA
Anybody use one of the cheap fuel gauge converters?
Replies
5
Views
326
RealWing
RealWing
T
Setup of an AutoMeter fuel bridge
Replies
4
Views
354
timk225
T
Back
Top Bottom