Thanks for the info. I just got off the phone with a friend that had his cluster rebuilt by Instrument Specialties. $$$$ After installing it the gas gauge read 3/4 when full. He had a new tank and sender so all should be good. He was told to ground the sender wire and if the gauge reads full the gauge and wiring should be good. Hook up the sender out of the tank and do a sweep. If it goes from empty to full the sender should be ok and the problem is in the tank. They shorten the float arm by a 1/2" and it then works properly. Either the float is hitting a baffle at 3/4 or the arm isn't the proper length we don't know. I am just repeating what was I heard. Joe said he tried a known good original sender and had the same problem.
I don't know if the new reproduction tanks have baffles inside or not.
That could just as easily be a gauge issue. So I'll ask, Does the needle drop to or a bit below the 'E' at switch off? It more common for the aftermarket senders to make a empty report when only 7 to 10 gallons will fill and get full report.
So, do they work on aftermarket cheap ones, that have bigger tubes on them ? What does it cost ?
Interesting. I don't daily drive the car so it's no big deal to put fresh gas in every time I drive, it seems to burn a half a tank every time I take it out. I'd like to convert to EFI so I'm looking into ways to convert the tank that I have to an in-tank pump with a return line system. Aeromotive is five minutes from my work, so I'm thinking about stopping by and talking to them to get their thoughts. They make a tank for the 70+ A bodies but not the earlier ones.
mine is a throttle body f.inj., retun line set up, and still burns about what u are getting. When the car starts, I can`t hear the external pump anyway.
Interesting. I`m probably too lazy (at my age) to pull it out anyway.
