Fusible Links

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RogerK

RogerK

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I'm planning a few wiring upgrades, the Ammeter bypass, Squareback alt upgrade, bulkhead connector pass through/cleaning and possibly relays for the headlights. I have all the wiring upgrades mapped out on a schematic go by.

My questions is if I were to replace the fusible link at the bulkhead connector what amp fuse would I use to do that? I don't know how a 14 gauge link equates to an amp rated fuse.

Any help or comments is appreciated.
 
Rule of thumb - 4 wire sizes smaller than main wire. I ran #8 from the alternator to the starter relay with 6 inches of #12 fuseable link wire. Not sure what size fuse but I blew a 30 amp before I went with the fuseable link.
 
I think that it says on the box for the fuseable link what amps that they are rated for.


Unfortunately, all my boxes are long gone and all I have left is the wire. I believe that the gage wire of the fuseable link determines the amps that it is rated for.
 
norshorblufish said:
This link might help. Unless you've already have seen it.
http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Click to expand...

This is a great article and its what I've been following for my upgrade. It references the 12 and 14 gauge fusible links with no reference to replace them with a fuse. I'm looking at mounting a power distribution panel with fuses and relays somewhere under the hood and figured it would be simpler to have a large amp fuse protect the circuits than the old links.
 
I guess I misunderstood.

Why not use a more modern fusible link like this it plugs in like a fuse.
I think they should match the amps of the old one you are replacing, but I'm not sure. Maybe someone else would know more.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...lqhZ9cih5?itemIdentifier=32385_152113_0_45954

The only thing is you may have to find a block link this.


relayfusebox3.jpg


Let us know how it turns out.
 
BINGO! YES! that is exactly what i've had in mind.

Now if i could match the correctly amped "fuse" the the old link i'm in business.

If the alternator puts out 65 amps would a 45 or 50 amp fuse be a safe bet?

norshorblufish said:
I guess I misunderstood.

Why not use a more modern fusible link like this it plugs in like a fuse.
I think they should match the amps of the old one you are replacing, but I'm not sure. Maybe someone else would know more.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...lqhZ9cih5?itemIdentifier=32385_152113_0_45954

The only thing is you may have to find a block link this.


relayfusebox3.jpg


Let us know how it turns out.
Click to expand...
 
No, you need more fuse than the alternator is going to put out. And, it depends on where the link is. The "whole thing is" the original links were a VERY poor deal and did not always protect the wiring!!!!! So comparing "what you should do" with "what was original" is basing your thoughts on poor design


In the 70's "some chick" ran into the rear of my 70 RR and I got a loaner, a beater of a Valiant slant. One morning leaving work, the alternator stopped, causing the belt to slip. It turned out that A DIODE HAD come loose and fallen inside, stopping the alternator. The diode SHORTED causing the entire ignition harness to melt together into a smoking, smelly, slithering black mass of plastic and copper, and THEN...........pphhhhhshssssssshshshshshsttttttt ..... tttt went the link!!!!!
 
I went ahead and followed the MAD article exactly and used two new fusible links for now. I can upgrade my alternator for now and I'll worry about the other stuff next year.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
I've got a 67 Barracuda. The heater fan is not running and every time I push the A/C button or the DEFROST button the engine stops running. Is there a fusible link for that? Can anyone tell me what fusible links there are and where they might be located?

No blown regular fuses and no melted wires.......yet!

Thank you,
Frank
 
You should start a new thread. This is not a fuse link issue
 
Famous FF said:
I've got a 67 Barracuda. The heater fan is not running and every time I push the A/C button or the DEFROST button the engine stops running. Is there a fusible link for that? Can anyone tell me what fusible links there are and where they might be located?

No blown regular fuses and no melted wires.......yet!

Thank you,
Frank
Click to expand...

Best thing to do is get a manual or wiring diagram and start there. It will tell you where the fusible links are and you can trace the wires with the schematic.

there is a thread here http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309

There are manuals you can download. The truth is is there could be a number of issues causing the problem, most likely a shorted wire or switch. Start a new thread in the Ignition & Electrical section and you will get more assistance. :thumrigh:
 
You actually need to divide up your system into several circuits and size the feed wire to the loads grouped on each circuit and finally select the fuse to wire used on it particular circuit. Here is a good link to wire sizes and fuse sizes.

http://www.bdfuses.com/fusesnwires.php

Keep in mind that loads like incandescent headlights draw a surge of current when turning on that is well in excess of the normal operating current. So I wouldl reccomend moderately overfusing (maybe by 50%) the headlights and increase the wire size by one step to be 'in sync' with the larger fuse size.
 
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