DusterKrazy
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Spill some good budget 383 idea's here!!!
Good cheap 383 builds??
- Thread starter DusterKrazy
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Just build a stock HP 383.
matthon
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Do you have an engine?
I was thinking on buying a running junker with a 383 and maybe changing the cam and intake/carb, as long as the engine checks out.
That way no need to search for all of the misc stuff- pulleys, plug wire looms, etc.
I was thinking on buying a running junker with a 383 and maybe changing the cam and intake/carb, as long as the engine checks out.
That way no need to search for all of the misc stuff- pulleys, plug wire looms, etc.
guzzimike
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at the very least plan on a set of rings and bearings. your talking 30+ year old rings that at best, have very low miles but sat for long periods at a time. i have yet to tear down a "low mileage" motor and not find a few stuck rings.
Well, IF the 383 is a good to go engine, and IF is a big word, like said above, a RPM/750/headers w/2-1/2 exhaust and a cam to work with the gear ratio. If you keep the OE converter in the tranny, it will limit the cam size. But it'll still be a good runner.
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
I have a solid 1965 383 2bbl engine. It is factory rated at 270hp and 390 ft.pounds of torque.
I plan on doing new rings/bearing and oil pump. Well that and a few good hop up bits :cheers:
I plan on doing new rings/bearing and oil pump. Well that and a few good hop up bits :cheers:
I'm a huge fan of just a basic re-ring. Of course, that is as long as there is not a huge ridge at the top of the cylinders. Additionally, a good, crank grinding so the oil pressure will still be up high. Reason I like just a re-ring is two fold. First, it saves money. Secondly, it makes for a good loose short block. High performance engines will benefit from a loose bore in that it offers less friction, and allows the engine to run cooler. Nine times out of ten, if there's not a lot of ridge, there won't be any out of roundness, either. I've built a LOT of engines like this through the years and you know what? they held up better in most cases than the ones I spent big bucks on with all the machine work. DON'T skimp on the crankshaft, even if it's close. Get the crank clearances right. Run a stock volume oil pump. A high pressure or high volume will rob too much horse power. Assuming you have a decent set of heads, an EXCELLENT street camshaft is the Crane 643801. Here it is: http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=CRN-643801&part=CRN-643801&autoview=sku
Although it says not available there, call S&S cycles and see when it will be. they bought Crane Cams out and are still producing ALL of their inventory. That camshaft is probably one of the single BEST cams for the street you can buy. It may possibly even beat the MP cams and that's a tall order indeed. It only requires cheap single springs, too and you can retain the stock rocker setup. Also, since it has a wide lobe separation angle, it will work very well with factory HP exhaust manifolds. It will also keep cylinder pressure high with the stock compression ratio. If you decide to add headers, it will work well with those too. All I can say on the carb is one word. THERMOQUAD. Run a good dual plane intake. Only two that I know of that will accept a spread bore. the Edelbrock Performer, and the Offenhauser. Spend the extra money on the Offy. As for ignition, nobody does it like Mopar Performance. That's about all I got.
DusterKrazy
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Thanks for you're advice. You are the first people to reccomend an Offy intake, so many hate them and I don't really know why?? I do not have much experience with a big-block. I have an Offy on my 318 and it seems to run pretty decent.
I think I have the factory closed chamber 383 heads on it, what do you think of these? I believe they are 516's IIRC. I heard the downfall to these is the
smallish exhaust valves.
The points will go away. IMO they don't belong on a high performance mill.
I think a windage tray will be a great idea as well.
You stick with a mild street engine and there's no need for the larger exhaust valve. I like the 516s. Lotta people dog on um. the closed chamber is very efficient. now, since they dont have hardened exhaust seats, and you NEED them, it would be advisable to go ahead and upgrade to the large exhaust valve when you have the seats installed.
The small exhaust valve is the least of the worries. The above cam being a split duration will help address this.
Go for the ignition upgrade and windage tray.
Anybody know the stock comp. ratio of this engine and possible stall converter ratings?
Go for the ignition upgrade and windage tray.
Anybody know the stock comp. ratio of this engine and possible stall converter ratings?
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
9.2 comp..don't know converter stall though..
I agree...but if those heads don't have hardened seats....it would be good to do the bigger exhaust valves while doin the seats, wouldn't it?
I don't believe hardened seats are a neccesity. Exhaust valve seat recession seemed to be a much bigger problem with GM stuff. If you are not careful you can end up with more money invested in a set of 516s than they are worth. If you are working with a tight budget , just put new springs on and run them as is. New valves, guides, hardened seats, valve job, etc, will cost several hundred dollars. IMO, you should start with a better head if you are going to be spending some money. 516s will NOT flow what a 915 or 906 will: http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/62.html
you arent kidding, a guy told me the other day he gets 400$ to do a valve job, you bring him a greasy set of heads he cleans them, cleans all threads removes any broken bolts or studs, valve job and reasemble. now figure adding hardened seats, new springs, new valves, and deck them you will quickly be up to the cost of a set of stealth heads and you didnt even get into a port job.
I would look around for some 452s in good shape. They flow the same as the 906, but have the hardened seats for unleaded fuel.
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
What about a set of 346 casting heads? Or are they not worth the effort either??
Ports on 346 are essientally the same as 452. 452 has hardened seats as Strokerscamp has mentioned. I have heard that some 346s had hardened seats and some didn't. Don't know if this is true though. Both of my old big blocks have iron heads (906 and 346), but were built prior to the availability of the Edelbrock heads. If i were building the same engines today, i would go straight for the Eds or the Stealths. If you are trying to get by on the cheap for now: use the 516s you have and throw on some new springs,cam in the 225 to 230 at .050 range, Performer rpm intake ,750DP or 750VS( i like DPs better), and some cheap headers. If you get a MP windage tray, spread the slots open more with a screwdriver or something. The real key.... a good converter. The converter can make or break the combo.
Yes, the 346s flow the same as all the rest...but they do not have hardened seats. the 452s were the first BB heads with the hardened seats. Dang do none of yall have the Mopar engine manual? It's ALL in there. LOL
Yeah...what forphorty said about the converter is SPOT ON. especially with a mild build. you really need to be careful not to get too much converter. Heck, for most street builds, the factory high stall is plenty.
greenhornet
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Guess I got lucky, my 383 has the 452 heads...
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
A converter is the most important part IMO....
i guess you can call it luck, a 383 probably never rolled off the line with 452 heads.
Yes, you did,especially considerin that 383 was cast before any 452 head ever got into the meltin pot! The last year for the 383 was 1971 and the 452 heads didn't come on the scene until 1974, so somebody swapped um out for heads with hardened seats. That was a blessin indeed.
Converter stall on the said 383 is a question of mine. What would it be? Would it depend on the car it came out of?
What would the stall difference be between a regular passenger car and a hi stall in a road runner. (For example)
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