The Mopar stock converters were high in comparison to other makes. The stock converters were typically around 1700 RPM while the factory high stalls were around 1000 RPM higher. They worked well, too.
Good cheap 383 builds??
- Thread starter DusterKrazy
- Start date
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Babyblue66
Cool dude
But if your block came with 516's, adding these heads will really drop your compression. Since the 516 had smaller chambers
Also hardened seats are not a requirement, unless you tow or have a motorhome. Larger duration cams in a car, also with correct tuning run the exhuast valves cooler. Along with less driving we do with these cars, you'll never need them.
Stock 2 barrel 383 had 8 to 8.5 comp at best.
I was wondering for the OE poster. If he has not a hi stall converter, the getting one, even a cheap one, well, kind of throws "Cheap" out the window some. ($$$ Dependent of course on the verter price)
Trying to work within the confines of Cheap and what he has allready, the stall of the converter limits the cam choices. For a cam choice, if the converter is a low stall, I'm guessing a OE road runner cam would be too much. Do-able, but a bit much for the OE low stall.
Also, Is there a hi stall for '78 model years? Not to thread hi-jack, but I have a '78 P code 400 & 727.
What was the gear ratio of this car again?
Trying to work within the confines of Cheap and what he has allready, the stall of the converter limits the cam choices. For a cam choice, if the converter is a low stall, I'm guessing a OE road runner cam would be too much. Do-able, but a bit much for the OE low stall.
Also, Is there a hi stall for '78 model years? Not to thread hi-jack, but I have a '78 P code 400 & 727.
What was the gear ratio of this car again?
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
I'will eventually put 3.91's in the rear. As for the stall converter, I don't even have a BB 727 yet, so when the funds become available; I will be on the search for a decent priced converter. I'm thinking something in the 3000-3500 range for a decent launch??
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
So the 1965 383 has 8.5 instead of the factory rated 9.2???
Without actually calculating the compression, I don't think you can really be sure. I put a '65 383 2 bbl engine in a '72 Valiant. I left the stock cam in it, which I'm sure didn't bleed off much compression. Anyways, it definately wasn't fond of running on regular, so they do have a little compression in stock form. I used the steel shim gaskets in it when I put the heads back on, (the stock 516's, stock exhaust seats). I ran it as a daily driver, approx 15,000+ miles per year for 4 years. It still ran very well. I did give it a squirt of Gunk brand lead additive every fill up. Probably did no good, but made me feel better...
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
Anybody else??
guzzimike
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My daily driver 1968 Dart GT's engine / Rear end / tranny & TC -
1969 Road Runner 383 (bored .060 over), 902 heads (ported/polished/decked - larger valves fitted), forged steel crank, TRW pistons, Performer RPM manifold, Holley 750 (Vac secondaries), Schumacher Tri-Ys, Chet Herbert Hydra Cam (280H) = 224 (.050)duration / .459 Lift / 108* Lobe separation), 2800 RPM TC, (had 3.23 Sure Grip), now 3.91 SG. MSD6AL box, MSD Pro Billet Dist, MSD Coil.
Runs just as good on Premium as well as Mid-Grade fuel from any of the usual suspect Gas Stations (Shell, Chevron, Union 76, Mobil)
Been running like a Top since August 2005.
1969 Road Runner 383 (bored .060 over), 902 heads (ported/polished/decked - larger valves fitted), forged steel crank, TRW pistons, Performer RPM manifold, Holley 750 (Vac secondaries), Schumacher Tri-Ys, Chet Herbert Hydra Cam (280H) = 224 (.050)duration / .459 Lift / 108* Lobe separation), 2800 RPM TC, (had 3.23 Sure Grip), now 3.91 SG. MSD6AL box, MSD Pro Billet Dist, MSD Coil.
Runs just as good on Premium as well as Mid-Grade fuel from any of the usual suspect Gas Stations (Shell, Chevron, Union 76, Mobil)
Been running like a Top since August 2005.
i stuck a 440 crank in my 383 but im doing a low buck 400 right now, close enough. well as low buck as i can. i honed it new cast rings, im running a stick behind it so i wanted to simplify things and scrapped the cast crank, had my 383 steel crank rebalanced for the 400 and polished, new rod, main and cam bearings, the smaller summit cam, summit roller chain, i have quite the collection of BB heads im not sure whaty im going to run. i have pne home ported 452 i could do another, i have some 516, but im not sure if i want to spend the cash on a valve job and deck or just go with stealth heads. im set on running a thermoquad i picked up really wanted to run a performer intake, but i have everything but. performer rpm, 70 383 hp iron intake, M1 single plane, and a torquer. i think im going to modify the rpm have to add a pocket for the choke pull, im looking to have peak torque at pretty low rpm, going to be running .5 od and 3.73. not a strip toy, a cruiser. i couldnt spend the money to build what i think id want right now so this will have to do. id rather spend the cash on heads i can use anyway and i can work the bugs out and i can decide what to build for a short block while i drive it.
moper
Well-Known Member
There's not really too much you can do on a low budget deal. No piston will give you decent compression with open chambered heads without some careful blueprinting of block decks and head milling. You can toss in some KB domed pistons but you'll still struggle to get 9:1 static out of that combo with the big chamber heads. So I'd plan on a mild cam (summit brand smaller cam would be good), some basic single performance valve springs, and run it as is until the budget allows for more.
I think Moper has a good idea. I would look at a wider centerline cam due to the low compresion. Huges says there whiplash cams will keep compresion up on low ratio mills.
Add intake of choice and headers. Run as is like Moper said until budget allows for a rebuild.
Add intake of choice and headers. Run as is like Moper said until budget allows for a rebuild.
Hughes does claim that.....but have you seen the LSA? they age ground on 107. I don't see that keepin cylinder pressure up, do you? I know there's a wide spread between the intake and exhaust duration, but is that enough to make up the difference? Here are the specs:
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5.518"
.518"
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6.552"
.552"
Exhaust Duration at .050"229°
242°
Exhaust Opening at .050"10.5° BTC
51° BBC
Exhaust Closing at .050"38.5° ABC
11° ATC
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