Got my Keisler estimate

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Part of my wanting the Kiesler was ease of install and easy fit. They come with a new crossmember now and all you have to cut is the hump for the shifter. Well, you have some cutting to do for the clutch hydraulics if you chose hydraulic over cable, and I don't know why you wouldn't. I am leaning toward the gear vendor, but I have heard of the GM 200R4 before. How does that fit? New bell housing I imagine. How about the splines?
 
Part of my wanting the Kiesler was ease of install and easy fit. They come with a new crossmember now and all you have to cut is the hump for the shifter. Well, you have some cutting to do for the clutch hydraulics if you chose hydraulic over cable, and I don't know why you wouldn't. I am leaning toward the gear vendor, but I have heard of the GM 200R4 before. How does that fit? New bell housing I imagine. How about the splines?

I had the kiesler set up in my Duster and loved it. It was behind a 528 Hemi with 648 FT lbs of torque. The only issue was the trans tunnel kind of grew...... it was a little big to be honest. Now, this trans was one of kiesler's first A-bodies trans. number 1 or 2 if I remember correctly ......

HemiDenny has a passion aluminum A833 and a gear vendors overdrive. PM him and ask how he likes it.

PS: I ran 70 MPH @ 2300 RPM with the Kiesler set up
 
I am leaning toward the gear vendor, but I have heard of the GM 200R4 before. How does that fit? New bell housing I imagine. How about the splines?
All you need is the adapter to bolt the tranny to the block. You can get the adapter from wilcap. Splines are strong, of course like the 904 you'll want to beef it up internally. I have seen the 200R4 live behind a 1200hp Buick Grand National for many years.
 
well I haven't done it yet but I have started looking into using a 5 speed from an 89 mustang behind a small block..so far will need to make a spacer for the output shaft bearing retainer and break out the metal lathe to make and extended pilot bushing to support the outut shaft...I don't have a shifter for it yet so I havent done any more measuring, driveshaft will have to be made and so will the linkage for the clutch release, I'll post some more when I get further along
 
Waggin I was just fixing to ask this. I hear brand swaps all the time and was wondering about pressure plate bolt patterns,bell housing depth,trans bolt pattern and output shaft length.Kinda what you swap and what stays and whats involved.
 
Waggin I was just fixing to ask this. I hear brand swaps all the time and was wondering about pressure plate bolt patterns,bell housing depth,trans bolt pattern and output shaft length.Kinda what you swap and what stays and whats involved.

I wondered the same thing. Good question!
 
ive been looking into the mustang t-5 swap for about a year now.

theres plenty of guys that have done it.

with an 89 model t5, should be a workd class.
this is a quickie rundown, as im hopped up on cold medicine and not very coherent.
my swap plans
redrill lakewood for t-5 bolt pattern, weld new nuts to the inside of bellhousing
turn dowwn input bearing retainer to line up with mopar size
build hybrid pilot bearing using ford bushing and mopar roller bearing
jeep 4,0 throwout bearing, retain rest of stock linkage
mustang 10.5 clutch disc will work with my spec 2+ pressure plate
nuild crossmember to bolt in place of old trans crossmember, while retaining drivceline angle
cave in torsion bar corssmsmber about 1/4 inch
build new driveshaft out of crown vic cop car aluminum piece
wire
enjoy

the pictures i have seen of the swap require minimal to NO cutting of the floorpan. shifter hole. couple of giuys were able to get theor driveline angles without doing anything to the t-bar crossmsmber. some werent.

hope that helps on the t-5

and im now going to the passionj site to look up the 4sp od stuff;. just for giggles. my 833 is NOT healthy.

michael
 
All you need is the adapter to bolt the tranny to the block. You can get the adapter from wilcap. Splines are strong, of course like the 904 you'll want to beef it up internally. I have seen the 200R4 live behind a 1200hp Buick Grand National for many years.

I was talking to Art Carr the other day about the 200. He has several levels depending on horsepower. For us Mopar guys, his pricing was something in the low 2K range if not a touch less.
 
Screw it, even with gas at $4 a gallon how much fuel would an OD save ? I agree 4,000 rpm on the freeway is much, with quieter mufflers it really helps out. I had 25 inch tires and 3.91's, got 26.8 inch tires in back this year, it help out, 20--30 min drives on the freeway are doable now. Might be doing a 3 hour ride soon, 65 mph is slow I agree but even $2,000 can go along ways on other enjoyments in life.
 
Screw it, even with gas at $4 a gallon how much fuel would an OD save ? I agree 4,000 rpm on the freeway is much, with quieter mufflers it really helps out. I had 25 inch tires and 3.91's, got 26.8 inch tires in back this year, it help out, 20--30 min drives on the freeway are doable now. Might be doing a 3 hour ride soon, 65 mph is slow I agree but even $2,000 can go along ways on other enjoyments in life.

If you buy a muscle car and then worry about mileage, in my opinion you are crazy. I am concerned about the constant high rpm hurting / wearing the motor. Running 50 to 60 psi oil pressure all the time can't be good either. I need to get it back to a driveable vehicle. Now I just bought a 408 stroker for it so when I drop that in I really want to do something about the rpms.
 
Yeah that is the one of the problems with strokers, they don't like rpm's. Why Mopar used a 3.31 stroke for the 340 motors. Those 340's used to last 100,000 plus miles with a 3.55 gear and 26 inch tires. 3,000 plus rpm on the freeways was normal until the 55 mph limit in 1973. Even a few 440 with 3.75 stroke got 3.90-4.10 gears from the factory, many more were 3.23 thou.

I knew this old guy--back in the 1980's, he is likely dead by now. He used to tell me when the speed limit was 70 mph rush hour traffic around Detroit would go 80--90 mph. Nobody had OD trans either back then. People just brought new cars every 2--3 years, lol

You could just do a gear change, I noticed a difference going up 1.8 inches on the rear tires. Running through the gears it is a tad slower but at some speeds, like @ 40 mph in 2nd gear, I think its quicker till it hits 3rd, can go 5 mph faster before i shift.
 
MOPAR TO YA,
I'm guessing you are running 4:30's. It's a fun gear, but it does suck going for a cruise. I knew a guy that had a 67 Shovel with a 468 BBC, nash 5 speed, and a Franklin quick change rearend. He drove it from Michigan down to Houston @ 2 tanks of gas per state. Go figure...9 sec car with a Dominator. Seems he was running 80 mph most the way... never mentioned rpm. Just threw the Chebie in there for grins, to say you might find a quick change rear laying around for a decent price. I have seen them in dirt track cars. They usually sell cheap...I have no idea what the gear selections are... maybe worth checking out?





dusterbd13,
build hybrid pilot bearing using ford bushing and mopar roller bearing.
Is there a thread somewhere about this? I haven't looked at the Ford shaft...is it larger than the Mopar shaft? Just thinking the Ford input shaft nose could be truned down to fit the Mopar roller bearing if it is.
 
MOPAR TO YA,
I'm guessing you are running 4:30's. It's a fun gear, but it does suck going for a cruise. I knew a guy that had a 67 Shovel with a 468 BBC, nash 5 speed, and a Franklin quick change rearend. He drove it from Michigan down to Houston @ 2 tanks of gas per state. Go figure...9 sec car with a Dominator. Seems he was running 80 mph most the way... never mentioned rpm. Just threw the Chebie in there for grins, to say you might find a quick change rear laying around for a decent price. I have seen them in dirt track cars. They usually sell cheap...I have no idea what the gear selections are... maybe worth checking out?





dusterbd13,
build hybrid pilot bearing using ford bushing and mopar roller bearing.
Is there a thread somewhere about this? I haven't looked at the Ford shaft...is it larger than the Mopar shaft? Just thinking the Ford input shaft nose could be truned down to fit the Mopar roller bearing if it is.

I'm running 4.10's. I just spent $3K on a new Dana 60, mono leafs and caltracs. I am not going to change the rear end now! I just picked up a 408 stroker and I really need to do something when I drop in the motor. If my buddy who owns a tranny shop has a 200R4 laying around I will go that route. Otherwise it looks like Gear Vendors.
 
I see the GV guys every year at SEMA. They do have a quality product, and are happy to help.

Sounds like you are not married to either standard or auto transmissions, but limited by cost.

Since you are locked into the 4.10's, an OD is probably the best bet. I know they make a unit for a 727 that will hang in there @ 25,500 lbs GVW behind a 440 with a turbocharger - we used to really beat that rig running back & forth to Glamis.

I would rather have a 727 than a trans-mex (tremec) anything...

B.
 
GV also makes a unit for the 200R4 which in turn will make a 4 auto to a 7 speed auto.
 
Keisler quoted me $3960 out the door for the a41 over drive auto stage 1 trans. No modifications other than adding a slot in the cross member. Not a terrible price IMO.
 
I just got my quote from Keisler for my 70 Road Runner for one of their new RS 500 5 speeds. Granted I don't have the cut the floor on a b-body.

They quote me just under 5000 for everything. Trans was 2699.

I figure the estimate you got was for a TKO
 
I just installed the Keisler RS600 5 speed in my 68 charger yesterday--everything went ok except the speed-o cable goes in right where the cross member brace is (the hole for the speed o is looking up) Looks like a call to Keisler on Mon.
 
i love my keisler setup in my duster! best thing i ever done to my car. i found the trans,a tko 600,used and had them modify it. saved me a bunch of money. i am pretty anti auto,but i don't drag race either.
 
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