Griffin Rad fitment issues

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Pateras

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Ivied searched but with no real results.

So I'm finally in with my semi-built 383 in my 67 cuda. Buttoning everything up, etc. I went to put my nice Griffin rad with electric fan setup in is morning at 1am, and realized there's no Effing way. I was assured like 10 times by the griffin group that this would fit with my setup. I'm irritated as this is the exact situation I was trying to avoid. ( the engine was out when I ordered so I had no way of knowing exact measurements.)

Any suggestions?? I only have 5" of clearance, but the rad/fan setup is over 6" thick ..
Sincerely,
Bummed out in CO.
 

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Not sure if this is helpful or not but I also had some fitment issues with my Griffin rad. It's actually one of their "direct replacements" but was not really close. The brackets they use put the radiator way too far into the engine bay. I have a small block but still had to go to a shorter fan clutch. Fitting a shroud was also a PITA because of the way they make the shroud attaching rail thing. I hacked up a nice original shroud to make it work and it just kinda hangs there now. Killed the fins trying to make it all work too.

Sounds like you have some 'adjusting' to do or send it back before you start messing with it or put coolant in it. I'd send it back if you can and use the money on a generic one that you know will fit.
 
I hate to say this again but the stock stuff fits and works. When it comes to cooling most of the problems come from trying to reinvent the wheel.
 
I used the griffin muscle car series with humongus 1.25 inch tubes and it fit like a glove. Shroud bolted up too.What type did you use?.
 
I hate to say this again but the stock stuff fits and works. When it comes to cooling most of the problems come from trying to reinvent the wheel.

I can see where you're coming from but that's not entirely true.

Case in point; the current cooling system on my car works almost too well - aforementioned Griffin rad, Hayden/Jag fan clutch, 16" fan blade with OE shroud, 160 degree t-stat and Flow Kooler water pump. It's a 'stock' type system with better mousetrap type-parts. I chose the Griffin for the weight savings mostly. Probably not the most cost-effective choice but I'm stuck with it for now.

The stock system does have limitations but the fact is, they were designed to withstand all kinds of torture and would probably work in 95% of these situations. People end up spending tons of money on 'upgrades' yet still run into problems.

Regardless, he's not really complaining about performance (yet) but the fitment issue is puzzling. When I had the issues on my car I found myself wondering where they came up with their specs. Direct replacement should be "direct replacement', not kinda sorta close but not really.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. Found the packing slip. "Combo-Fit, " straight from their website, says nothing about needing a special WP. Am I missing something? I used a standard OEM Style WP.
 

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Plus, I called 2 times before I ordered.
 

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In their defense, it does say "measure twice, order once". You said that you ordered it while the engine was out so neither you nor Griffin would have no way of knowing how much space you needed. Can't really blame that on them or their radiator.

If you read their description of the combo units, what they are essentially saying is that all combos are different so it's up to you to do your homework, be prepared to make it work and don't call us when it doesn't fit. Doesn't make it right but that's kinda how it goes. Conversely, if you bought a direct fit one like I did and that didn't fit, you'd have a legitimate argument.

But like I said, send it back if you can or at least see if you can exchange it for something that takes up less real estate. Seems like a universal fit type deal so you have that in your favor. Just tell them it didn't work. You wouldn't be lying.

If you're stuck with it though, you're going to have to figure it out. Can you 'modify' their mounting bracketry or your rad support to get the extra room? Sounds like you're gonna have to do some surgery to get it in there. Probably just needs a little persuasion in a few spots.
 
Again, thanks for the replies. I guess I'm asking if there are water pumps out there that would still clear the Rad., but also run the pulleys as we'll. I just dint know enough about it.

I'll call them today, doubt their open (holiday) I'll keep you guys posted, thanks.
 
I can't tell if the engine is too far forward or not, but here is the 440 in my son's Dart. Radiator is a Griffin universal installed with modified Ford mounts.
 

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I can't tell if the engine is too far forward or not, but here is the 440 in my son's Dart. Radiator is a Griffin universal installed with modified Ford mounts.

He's got the combo unit which has an electric fan on it. It sticks into the engine bay too far and apparently would contact the water pump. No fan blade like yours.

Not sure if there is a shorter water pump for a big block. My first thought was to go to an electric one but they are usually race only and don't last long under continuous duty. People use 'em on the street but it's not the norm. They're also really expensive.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. Found the packing slip. "Combo-Fit, " straight from their website, says nothing about needing a special WP. Am I missing something? I used a standard OEM Style WP.

I had issue with 440 source waterpump. It would not line up with pulleys. Is yours a 440source?
 
He's got the combo unit which has an electric fan on it. It sticks into the engine bay too far and apparently would contact the water pump. No fan blade like yours.

Not sure if there is a shorter water pump for a big block. My first thought was to go to an electric one but they are usually race only and don't last long under continuous duty. People use 'em on the street but it's not the norm. They're also really expensive.

I understand exactly what he is trying to fit. My GUESS is that if tech says it will fit, then the engine is too far forward. There is no shorter pump for a big block.
 
I understand exactly what he is trying to fit. My GUESS is that if tech says it will fit, then the engine is too far forward. There is no shorter pump for a big block.

I got an 1 1/4" two row 28 x 19 in my 68 barracuda, with an alum. shroud-mech fan set up. a little fabrication is required, along w/ cutting the rad. mounts off,and heliarcing some new brackets on-works for me !
 
I just put a Griffin in mine, had the same problem. I straightened out the Z bend in their mounting flange. That moved it forward almost an inch and now it fits. It should have been built like that to begin with. It only took a half hour to modify.
 
I just put a Griffin in mine, had the same problem. I straightened out the Z bend in their mounting flange. That moved it forward almost an inch and now it fits. I should have been built like that to begin with. It only took a half hour to modify.

Exactly what I said already. Kind of the only way to do it.
 
I just put a Griffin in mine, had the same problem. I straightened out the Z bend in their mounting flange. That moved it forward almost an inch and now it fits. It should have been built like that to begin with. It only took a half hour to modify.

How did you go about doing that, I need to do the same thing. Trying to figure out an easy way to do it. :coffee2:
 
The aluminum is pretty soft. I slowly straightened it out, about a 1/3 of the angle all the way across using channel locks. Then I braced it up against some 2x4's and worked the angle another third by hitting it with a rubber mallet. Then I flattened it completely with the mallet. It took some trimming and I drilled some mounting holes too. I did go pretty carefully. It sounds worse than it was, LOL. I guess I really wanted to fit that thing in there. I really don't understand why they put that Z bend in.
The radiator looks and works great. I think it's worth attacking, or you could cut the flanges off and have somebody weld flat pieces on, but it is a new unit that is suppose to fit. I can email pictures if you want.
 
The aluminum is pretty soft. I slowly straightened it out, about a 1/3 of the angle all the way across using channel locks. Then I braced it up against some 2x4's and worked the angle another third by hitting it with a rubber mallet. Then I flattened it completely with the mallet. It took some trimming and I drilled some mounting holes too. I did go pretty carefully. It sounds worse than it was, LOL. I guess I really wanted to fit that thing in there. I really don't understand why they put that Z bend in.
The radiator looks and works great. I think it's worth attacking, or you could cut the flanges off and have somebody weld flat pieces on, but it is a new unit that is suppose to fit. I can email pictures if you want.

Just post the pics here so everyone can see. I'm curious to see how you handled it.
 
Cuda69, thanks for the reply, and PLEASE post some pics if you get a chance. Griffin was open yesterday, and Tom (their Tech.) was super nice about it. I owned up to buying it with the engine out, (Stupid decision) but he stated he would take the fan back if i didn't end up using it.
My research, as you guys have just confirmed, has shown that theirs no "shorty" BB water pump. But, I knew i wasn't the first person to run into this. Again, Cuda69, please post some pics here so i can get started on my radiator mod. Thanks all!
 
Jim, i guess it's possible that the engine is too far forward, as I've had it out numerous times tackling the nightmare job of TTI header install, but my tranny and Schumacher engine mounts line up "perfect." i don't how they'd go in any other way, but it's possible. Thank you for your comment.
 
I will take the pictures and post them this afternoon (Wednesday).
 
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