Grounding stock gas tank ideas? No metal fuel line...

-
dusterdoug

dusterdoug

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
1,092
Reaction score
309
Location
Tracy, CA
Hey all!

I have a oem tank with a rear sump, therefore no metal gas line out of the sending unit. Therefore I cannot make use of a stock ground.

What has everyone with the same scenario done to ground the tank?

Or...is it even needed??

Thanks in advance!
 
How about an eyelet and screw it to the flange of the tank so you don't make a leak, then ground the other end of the wire to the body close by????
 
You could also use a hose clamp on the sender outlet metal tube with a wire to the chassis
 
Why does the tank need to be grounded?
 
Just ground the sending unit the tank don't need grounded. Buy one of the straps that connects onto the neck of the outlet then to the gas line. Then run a wire from that strap to the body
 
Like this. You can find them on ebay cheaper. Or just make your own.

Screenshot_20220304-011900_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
A strap to the tank flange will work fine. The sending unit grounds to the tank body through the lock ring (the gasket does not insulate it). Either drill a hole in the corner of the flange and use a ground strap with eyelet, or use a wire and electrical grounding clamp on the tank flange if you're leery of drilling the flange.
OIP.aseQ8PVQiAbnxA9Fi3YxhgHaHa?w=200&h=200&c=7&r=0&o=5&dpr=1.1&pid=1.jpg
 
When I was finishing up my 73 Challenger, I realized that I'd purchased the short sending unit ground strap instead of the long one I needed. While the correct one was ordered, I drove the car to get an alignment and put some gas in the tank. The fuel gauge still worked without the ground strap.

On a freshly built car, the sending unit grounds through the tank/tank straps to the body. Now, when the car gets some age on it, that connection probably gets weaker and the ground strap takes over.
 
burdar said:
When I was finishing up my 73 Challenger, I realized that I'd purchased the short sending unit ground strap instead of the long one I needed. While the correct one was ordered, I drove the car to get an alignment and put some gas in the tank. The fuel gauge still worked without the ground strap.

On a freshly built car, the sending unit grounds through the tank/tank straps to the body. Now, when the car gets some age on it, that connection probably gets weaker and the ground strap takes over.
Click to expand...
The strap insulators/anti-squeak strips (if used) can prevent a good ground through the straps.
s-l225.webp
 
There is no reason to believe the sender is grounded to the tank, any more than the tank grounded to the body. In my opinion, ground the sender. Easier if the sender is "out."
 
RustyRatRod said:
That hasn't ONE THING to do with the tank being grounded. Just the sender
Click to expand...
The sender is clamped to the tank by the lock ring, if the tank is grounded the sender is grounded.

I agree that a solid ground from the sender metal to the chassis would be positive ground but the factory relied on the clips on the fuel lines to do the grounding so I would feel very confidant in the tank being grounded to supply a superior ground than the factory.
 
Dana67Dart said:
The sender is clamped to the tank by the lock ring, if the tank is grounded the sender is grounded.

I agree that a solid ground from the sender metal to the chassis would be positive ground but the factory relied on the clips on the fuel lines to do the grounding so I would feel very confidant in the tank being grounded to supply a superior ground than the factory.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't ground the sender through the tank. All that's making that contact are those three small tangs on the lock ring. I would ground the sender like the factory did. It'll be a better ground.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wouldn't ground the sender through the tank. All that's making that contact are those three small tangs on the lock ring. I would ground the sender like the factory did. It'll be a better ground
Click to expand...
So 2 points on a hopefully spring steel clip would be better.

I don't think so.

I bet you could put 50 amps through the lock ring.

Anyone got a spare tank, sender and lock ring and want to blow stuff up?

Simple test.

Attach a heavy lug to the sender, install as normal, get 5 headlights in parallel, one side of the bulbs to battery plus, the other to the lug on the sender, then heavy lug on tank to battery negitave.

I doubt it would even get hot.

Just my 2 cents
 
Whatever dude. Evidently the factories thought it was good.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Evidently the factories thought it was good
Click to expand...
I'm not disagreeing with the factory just that the retainer ring wouldn't be a worse ground path than a spring clip on the tube to the fuel line.
 
Last edited:
Dana67Dart said:
I'm not disagreeing with the factory just that the retainer ring would be a worse ground path than a spring clip on the tube to the fuel line.
Click to expand...
Then we are in agreement. Don't know where the wires crossed. It was me I'm sure. lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top