Had headlights, then high beam only, now nothing

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Oops, forgot to include that with the new headlight switch, the high beams work with or without the engine running.
Please take the time to look at what 67Dart273 wrote, or the schematic I posted, or both.
Follow the flow path from each power source to the headlight switch. When the alternator is working, power flows from it. When the alternator is not providing power, it flows from the battery. In both cases it goes through the main splice. High beam, low beam, it doesnt matter.

Low beams, cause the amp meter to jump quickly, to the left (discharging, of course)
Any time the ammeter swings all the way to either side is really bad. That's 40 amps or more! You will damage the system running that much current through the circuits. Stuff will melt, and if there are combustibles near the hot wiring there will be a fire.

Now, I don't have the sealed beams installed, right now. But I turned the headlight switch on & the violet wire gets hot, BUT, there is no voltage there.
Can't comment on voltage, but there is current flowing through there. Its getting back to ground even though there's no lamps in the sockets.
The fact its getting warm means that the voltage is higher on one side of that hot area than the other. How much higher and how much above ground really doesn't matter.

I'll be getting back on, as soon as I can, tomorrow, most of the day is filled with my Daughter's doctor appointment and getting my Wife to work & picking her up. But, as soon as I can, I'll be back on this, because this is my daily driver. And again, Thank you, to ALL who are trying to help.
 
Take the time to understand the situation. Its too complicated to work on when you got other things going on.
A couple fundementals. Voltage is always present in the lines connected to the battery. Just like there is always pressure in the water lines of your house or in the air lines of a shop.
Pressure only drops when it is getting used faster than it can be replaced. Otherwise its at max everywhere.
Current (amps) is electricity flowing when there is a path creating a full circuit (battery positive to negative or alternator output to ground)

Taking that schematic for an example.
One way for electricity to be flowing through the socket with no bulb in it is if a headlight wire is grounding after that socket.
upload_2019-5-21_8-10-31.png

If the short to ground is poor, then some current may flow though the parking lights.
If the short to ground is good, then all the current will take the path of least resistance.
Since the breaker didn't open right away, there's prob some resistance in the short.
 
OP......check your battery voltage when running at "high fast idle." You may have a problem causing bad over voltage. Is the battery bubbled over?

I have to say, I didn't even think of doing this simple step, Thanks for bringing it up & the battery is a sealed battery, w/ no signs of bubbling over. Thanks though.
Take the time to understand the situation. Its too complicated to work on when you got other things going on.
A couple fundementals. Voltage is always present in the lines connected to the battery. Just like there is always pressure in the water lines of your house or in the air lines of a shop.
Pressure only drops when it is getting used faster than it can be replaced. Otherwise its at max everywhere.

Current (amps) is electricity flowing when there is a path creating a full circuit (battery positive to negative or alternator output to ground)

Taking that schematic for an example.
One way for electricity to be flowing through the socket with no bulb in it is if a headlight wire is grounding after that socket.
View attachment 1715338397
If the short to ground is poor, then some current may flow though the parking lights.
If the short to ground is good, then all the current will take the path of least resistance.
Since the breaker didn't open right away, there's prob some resistance in the short.

I agree, it is very hard to keep your thought process straight, with other things going on & it doesn't hep that even though I have always taken care of our vehicle issues, but it has been a long time, since I had to do much trouble shooting, especially on electrical problems. Got things going on today, but I am in hopes of getting back on this, hopefully, either this afternoon or tomorrow. I will rest a lot easier though, when I can get past this, just as soon as I can, but making sure it IS solved though. I appreciate the patience and understanding.
 
Update:
I have checked about all of the wiring, under the hood. I have checked the alternator output & monitored the battery voltage, when I turned the lights on. Remembering an issue I came across, when I worked years ago, at a VW dealership. I was checking the car over, as part of a Pre Delivery Inspection. While checking the lights, I put it on high beam and before I could put it back on low beam, it happened automatically! And then back up on high beam! I turned the lights off and another mechanic saw what happened and told me that he had the same basic thing happen to him once & it turned out to be a single light bulb, with a problem. That bad bulb was causing feedback & triggering the dimmer switch. I checked the one I was working on and found that the left rear Brake/turn signal bulb was the problem. The upper element had somehow, come loose on one end and dropped down onto the lower element, causing the feedback. Sorry about my explanation, being so lengthy, just trying to make sure that the intent was obvious. now, I have checked the headlight bulbs (again), park/turn bulbs, tail lights (tail, turn/brake, backup & license plate light. The license plate light bulb was blown. Now, I am putting things all back together enough, to see how it goes. But, before I do, I am not happy with the way the stereo was put in and haphazard wiring of it. So, I am going to pull it,& make sure everything in that area looks to be okay. Thank you all, for your patience. My patience, with this, is growing thin, especially with all we have going on, presently.
 
I have decided to eliminate some of the possible causes of electrical problems in the Swinger. Somewhere, along the way, someone installed a fancy Pioneer stereo accent lighting changes colors ever so often & the wiring connections weren't that good. They also wired the power, in by disconnecting the hot wire, to the brake light switch and there are all kinds of extra wires, running everywhere. And the wires are tiny. So, I figured that, especially since I was going to replace that radio anyway, Now would be a good time, to get it all out of the way & give me more access, under the dash anyway. So, that is where I am at now. Kind of difficult though, for an older guy, like myself, to get down under this dash (especially when you are used to dealing with "B" Bodies. But, I am still working, to get there, with this one.
 
Thank you, for the input on the spare terminal. I figured it had to be a ground, with it on the cover plate, which made me wonder if I needed to make a lead and attach it. I agree, with Rock Auto and use them quite a bit, for a lot of things.



Just to be clear, as to what started all of this, what I've done & what the end result was last night, so we all are on the same page, so to speak:

Driving home from town, a few nights ago, suddenly the low beams went out. I quickly went to high beam. just as I got home, the high beam went out too.

Well, I hit the dimmer switch a few times - Nothing!
Turned the headlight switch off & on a few times - Again, Nothing!

I knew I had another dimmer (used) switch. I checked it, with my meter & it
seemed to function like it should. So, I put that one on, tried it & Again, Nothing!

So, from all I had read, on here & when I googled the problem, the majority of
issues pointed to the Headlight Switch.

I looked around, on the forum, as well. And the next thing I knew, it was 1;00AM
and I started on this, around 8 or 9:00. So, I quit and went to bed.

The next day, I started getting into it deeper. Also, I ordered a headlight switch,
because it wasn't expensive & having a spare would be good. From this point on,
I have checked the headlight bulbs - both work, on high & low beams.
I checked the ground wires that are located by the battery & next to the radiator
& cleaned the them.

A question I have asked and I don't remember getting an answer to, "Is there a
headlight relay? If so, where is it & could That be a problem?

Now, yesterday afternoon, after I actually had to go get the headlight switch
from an O'Reilly warehouse (a little over an hour away), I started working on
replacing that headlight switch. So, I get the switch hooked up & in place. I try it
out. I had high beam, but still no low beam. And when I tried the low beam, there was a heavy discharge on the battery. So, I start it up & on "low beam,
there still was a discharge and the motor was missing! I have absolutely NO idea what happened, to give me THAT problem! Now, yesterday afternoon, before I got home, I had to run an errand, where I came across a series of "speedbumps"
& 1 of them snuck up on me. when I went over it, it was pretty hard on the suspension, which makes me wonder if I somehow damaged something, electrical
yet the charging system only acts up, when on low beam! I am totally confused, as to how or why all of this is going on & I don't know IF the speed bump issue has anything to do with it or not. I just need help, if anyone has had anything similar or feels they can shed some light on this. Sorry about the lengthy post. I am just totally frustrated, at this point. input definitely appreciated.

My guess is, you got a bad switch. It does happen.
 
Okay, had a lot of other things going on, on top of me trying to understand what happened to the Swinger, with the headlights & such. I don't remember if I mentioned it or not, but several times, last year, I had some head light issues on the '08 Town & Country, that were driving me up the wall, because the electrical system on them, is a whole different matter. Doesn't help, that even though I have maintained our vehicles, since way back & hadn't until a few years back (I'm 72 now), had issues like this & had NEVER had light issue, on a vehicle of any kind, with basically the old school electrical system in it. So, I have now, started really digging into the electrical system in this one.I started off, by eliminating the crudely installed aftermarket stereo (not only eliminating the radio & it's mess of wiring, it opened things up some, under the dash, to help me be able to better check things out, under there. Under the hood, I had removed the main connectors, on the firewall & checked the condition of the connectors there & felt they were okay, though I went ahead & did some scrapping on them, in an attempt to make sure of the connections., but somehow I missed the fact that there is a red fusible link that is inline, from the battery, to the Amp meter. Now while it is still in place & apparently making a connection (since the meter works) I have to wonder if I should replace it, as the insulation indicates, it has been pretty warm, as it has split and doesn't really cover the wire & I know it is a hazard, to be in that condition & could end up causing a short. My main question is though, can you even get fusible links any more? I am thinking it would be better, to remove it & replace it with a fuse holder with wire on both ends & connectors. I am just not sure what amperage the fuse should be? I will continued with working on my original issue, of course, but I want to take care of this first. Any input appreciated.
 
The link is getting warm because the circuit is overloaded.
Do not continue to put 35, 40, or more amps through the circuit.

You will be lucky if only the fusible link is damaged.

The fusible links are usually 16 gage, but I don't know '71.
Chrysler used blue insulation for 16 gage link but others use different colors. The gage is more important than the color.
I think you can buy premade with the correct connector and terminal.
You can certainly buy fusible link from most automotive parts places etc.
Your link is prob attached into the bulkhead connector or the starter relay. Depending on which will determine whether it needs a ring terminal or a female spade type with barb (Packard 58)

Please go back to post 22 # 27. Print that schematic if needed. Ask any questions if it doesn't make sense.

If I understand correctly, the ammeter pegged discharge with the engine off, headlight light switch on, and neither headlight bulb installed.
Is this correct ?

If not, then it would be really helpful know what voltages you meaured at the alternator output stud with the engine off and running lights off.
I have checked the alternator output & monitored the battery voltage, when I turned the lights on
What were voltages?

So far the only things we have to go on suggest the circuit breaker is tripping and the fusible link is getting hot.
This points toward a short in the headlight wiring after the circuit breaker.

It can be either traced visually or with some equipment (test light, continuity meter)
People here can walk you through this. But we have to follow the clues and test the possible reasons one step at a time.
 
The link is getting warm because the circuit is overloaded.
Do not continue to put 35, 40, or more amps through the circuit.

You will be lucky if only the fusible link is damaged.

The fusible links are usually 16 gage, but I don't know '71.
Chrysler used blue insulation for 16 gage link but others use different colors. The gage is more important than the color.
I think you can buy premade with the correct connector and terminal.
You can certainly buy fusible link from most automotive parts places etc.
Your link is prob attached into the bulkhead connector or the starter relay. Depending on which will determine whether it needs a ring terminal or a female spade type with barb (Packard 58)

Please go back to post 22 # 27. Print that schematic if needed. Ask any questions if it doesn't make sense.

If I understand correctly, the ammeter pegged discharge with the engine off, headlight light switch on, and neither headlight bulb installed.
Is this correct ?

If not, then it would be really helpful know what voltages you meaured at the alternator output stud with the engine off and running lights off.

What were voltages?

So far the only things we have to go on suggest the circuit breaker is tripping and the fusible link is getting hot.
This points toward a short in the headlight wiring after the circuit breaker.

It can be either traced visually or with some equipment (test light, continuity meter)
People here can walk you through this. But we have to follow the clues and test the possible reasons one step at a time.

Right now, I don't remember the voltages, as I didn't think to write them down. I am in Central Arkansas & we have had way too much rain, which hinders me working on the car and flooding, a little bit away from us, is enough to cause road closings. Not to mention, our property borders a lake, which a few years ago, decided to come up on our place, about 3ft. (fortunately, it has never gotten any worse. I'll be back on it, just as soon as possible). Than k you all, for your guidance. Things have gotten bad enough, that folks who aren't far away, are being told to consider evacuating the area, because of rising waters. Doesn't affect us, yet, but could end up that way.
 
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Okay, we didn't get flooded out, though some of the highways around here, got closed, which nearly cut us off from being able to go anywhere. But, anyway, I still have the headlight issue. I have done various things, in an attempt to figure out what happened. BUT, I am going to start all over again & document each step, as to what I did & what I found. So, starting tomorrow, I will go after it again.
 
Well, I finally solved my headlight & wiring issue. And it seems that I actually created the problem myself, much as I hate to admit it. Some, who might have created have accidentally created their own problem, might not come back on here and fess up. But, much as I hate to admit it, I am here to tell you all, that I actually caused my problem, by not paying close enough attention to my previous work, under the hood. You see, my Swinger had an aluminum radiator installed, with no shroud & no overflow bottle. So, I set out to work on that & I bought an aftermarket overflow bottle & set out to install it. The horns were mounted, in the lower mount position and I needed some room, so I simply moved the horns up to the higher location. And felt good, getting the bottle installed. The problem occurred, when I didn't look close enough, to realize that the wiring runs along the upper part of the radiator mount & I mashed the wires, under the flat washer of the bolt. To accidentally do something like this, was bad enough, but then, I felt I should tell you all, what happened & encourage you all, to be sure to pay close attention, to what you are doing & prevent yourself, from doing something similar. I still can't believe that, with all I have done, over my many years, I could do something like this. SO, I thank you all, for your attempts, to help me & I apologize for my carelessness, in this.
 
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