Hard starting when cold

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cudajim

cudajim
Joined
Jan 17, 2006
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Grass Valley, Ca.
Now that I have my manifold leaks fixed I want to solve the problem with hard starting when cold. My 225 6 banger has always been hard to start. If a crank it long enough and pump it a lot it'll start eventually. I know it's a gas supply issue. I'm running a stock engine but have a super 6 2bbl carb setup. I have a new gas tank, new stock mechanical pump, filter etc. Once running it starts right up. The automatic choke is working just fine too. I'd rather not use an electric pump unless I have to. I'm also running orange box mopar electronic ignition. Any suggestions?
 
Valve adjustment, choke adjust, timing? Just a start. Whats the compression? Low compression will make starting cold a reality untill the cylinders get a tad warmer.
 
Try this. Before even turning the key,...take the air filter housing off, hold the choke plate open, look down the carb and use the throttle linkage and give it a few pumps to see if it's squirting fuel. If not, there might be a accelerator pump/float issue. After that,.crank the motor over a few good times but don't give it any gas,.then do the test over again to see if it's squirting then. If so the fuel over night might be draining back. Maybe a needle and seat problem. Just a thought.
 
The orange box is junk from China (all the Mopar boxes are). Put the HEI upgrade on your to-do list. And speaking of the ignition: what (exact) distributor are you running, and what's your base timing set at?

Problems like this what you describe are usually down to a choke that isn't working properly and/or a loss of fuel in the carburetor overnight. First, what exactly is your choke setup? Is it stock Super Six equipment in good condition with all of the parts present and functional (including the electric choke heater controller)? Does your '72 have its original exhaust manifold, or was a different-year exhaust manifold installed? What (exact) carburetor is on it, purchased where? The next time the engine is stone-cold, remove the air cleaner lid. Hold the air cleaner housing firmly downward with your hand while you operate the throttle. Does the choke plate snap all the way closed, firmly but not violently? Next check is as Fury440 described, open the choke plate and operate the throttle again while looking down the carb throat: do you see a solid shot of fuel from the accelerator pump jet(s)?

Don't be misled into thinking an electric fuel pump is necessary or desirable. It's neither.
 
Talk about luck i was just about to post about something similar. I got a 63 with a carter single barrell.I pump the gas once its fires in about one revolution runs for less than two seconds and dies pump the gas one more time fires in a half of a revolution right into fast idle and im on my way. The only exception to mine is it does it no matter if is 20 degrees or 80 degrees outside.My wife thinks its funny but i tell her it fires second time everytime.
 

Another weird thing is if i park in the street for a couple of hours i go through the same thing but i could leave it parked on my slanted driveway for 3 days straight and it fires first time everytime im thinking float issue. I also second Dans suggestion on the HEI upgrade i did it three weeks ago and i tell you what im never looking and another ignition setup again.Its phenominal.
 
That's how my 71 Val is with a 1920. One pump to set the choke. And about half an engine turn. And it lights. Doesn't matter if it's summer or fall. (Don'tuse in winter)

If I let it sit for a couple weeks...then it takes a few because of the gas evaporating out of the bowl.

I agree with the ignition. Wider gaps on the Ole plugs and all. Very happy with it.
 
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