slantsixdan
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An A-body freak friend of mine is well along in the process of painting his '64 Valiant (225 2x1bbl 4-speed) using the Rustoleum/foam-roller method. He's not done yet and it's already clearly going to come out great.
Has anyone painted their car with rollers
- Thread starter Palmetto
- Start date
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bkbond12
Old ones need lovin too..
Pics?
slantsixdan
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Next time I'm over there I'll take some if that's okeh with him. He's doing gloss black.
Woods74
Broke Senior
There will be old school naysayers who would rather stick to the gun. Roll-on has it's advantages and disadvantages, just like everything else.
The fact is, it can be done, and look just as good. Both ways you will be sanding out orange peel, a good paint job is work, plain and simple.
I'm going to foam roll my dart when I finish the body work, If you follow my thread you can see how it turns out.
The fact is, it can be done, and look just as good. Both ways you will be sanding out orange peel, a good paint job is work, plain and simple.
I'm going to foam roll my dart when I finish the body work, If you follow my thread you can see how it turns out.
I recently sprayed a popsicle jeep with rustolium..... I used the acitone reducer then another kind which I don't remember off the top of my head what it was. It turned out surprisingly well considering; the paint wouldn't gloss up after using the acetone, it took using the other reducer.
Don't forget it's an enamel paint too..... (AKA it only lasts 5 years or less if outside)
Also the prep work is key, just like any paint job.
Don't forget it's an enamel paint too..... (AKA it only lasts 5 years or less if outside)
Also the prep work is key, just like any paint job.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Last month this guy rolled his Imperial....
Just finished rubbing it out today......
Just finished rubbing it out today......
lowbudget
Mopar Man
LMFAO that 2nd pic needs to go to Dr Fugly
snowmobiler7c
Well-Known Member
I can imagine it must be alot of sanding/buffing im not a painter and have only sprayed a few projects nothing special. My tractor was rolled/brushed probley back in the 50's/60's looks perfect in pictures or from 10ft but up close needs to be wet sanded,. Id like to see a roll on job in person.
Do the people that use the roller still use an automotive paint?? Seems like it would use alot of paint to roll but i have only rolled walls/ceilings.
Do the people that use the roller still use an automotive paint?? Seems like it would use alot of paint to roll but i have only rolled walls/ceilings.
lowbudget
Mopar Man
The paint I've read about people using is Rustoleum.
No. The KEY to the roller paint job is using Rustoleum Professional, which is self-leveling paint. When thinned properly, the wet sanding is a lot less than you'd think, per layer. The method uses several (6-10) very thin (translucent) layers of paint.
If my car was ready for paint, I'd do it in a heartbeat.
Here is a pic of a VW Bug the guy with the Charger did. Sprayed with Rustoleum (tremclad).
Sully1190
Look. It's a Gold Duster.
Wow. not only am I watching this thread, but I'm seriously considering this. I mean. if it comes out piss-poor, I'm 50 dollars in the hole, and have some more sanding ahead of me. What do I have to lose?
EDIT: Other than the respect of half of the FABO community ;)
EDIT: Other than the respect of half of the FABO community ;)
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
heres another done with rustolieum spray paint
That's the half I could care less about.
Sully1190
Look. It's a Gold Duster.
Indeed. My car's got too much bondo on it to ever be a competing show car anyways. I want it for a daily driver.
JayD
Well-Known Member
The blue one was sprayed, he rolled the orange beetle and the Charger.
Sully1190
Look. It's a Gold Duster.
Did he use the same paint for the beetle though?
I did this to my 65 a few years ago because I wanted a short term solution until i could paint it properly. Pros for me were : cheap and no overspray. You can drive it between applications too! It does work and you can get it to gloss pretty well. But as mentioned, you need to have the mixture just right (better too thinned by mineral spirits than not enough). Lots of sanding between coats and you may need many coats depending on the base color and the paint color. One thing i did notice is that the paint curled when i leaked some gas on it when filling her up.
If you're going to spray the Rustoleum you're better off spraying a quality paint since you have to mask the car and have a booth. Benefit to roll-on is little to no masking required and no booth...
If you're going to spray the Rustoleum you're better off spraying a quality paint since you have to mask the car and have a booth. Benefit to roll-on is little to no masking required and no booth...
Yup, you're right. I read the thread a long time ago and I thought he had done it with a roller as well.
No grudge here cause you paint with a roller. Looks purdy good to me.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
The Moparts post by 69Charger that Dan linked is the most-read post on any auto site. I suggest naysayers read it before ranting.
I painted my camping trailer w/ the roll & tip method and it came out shiny with no runs or orange peel. I did the engine bay and under-hood in my 65 Dart that way (no roller, just foam brushes since tight spaces) and it came out shiny, without any sanding. I may do the body that way too. Any paint job comes down to the prep and final sanding (2000 grit for mirror finish), not how the paint is applied. Also, try to paint in low humidity since it is moisture that causes orange peel.
I think many in the moparts posts try to go too cheap and use Rustoleum thinned way down so they need ~10 coats. I used Interlux Brightsides 1-part polyurethane, which is normally sold for boats but I bet they sell as much for cars since 69Charger's post. The downside is color selection. I mixed 4 parts white to 1 part yellow for my Dart, which looks perfect and it helps that white is much less expensive (~$70/gal).
I painted my camping trailer w/ the roll & tip method and it came out shiny with no runs or orange peel. I did the engine bay and under-hood in my 65 Dart that way (no roller, just foam brushes since tight spaces) and it came out shiny, without any sanding. I may do the body that way too. Any paint job comes down to the prep and final sanding (2000 grit for mirror finish), not how the paint is applied. Also, try to paint in low humidity since it is moisture that causes orange peel.
I think many in the moparts posts try to go too cheap and use Rustoleum thinned way down so they need ~10 coats. I used Interlux Brightsides 1-part polyurethane, which is normally sold for boats but I bet they sell as much for cars since 69Charger's post. The downside is color selection. I mixed 4 parts white to 1 part yellow for my Dart, which looks perfect and it helps that white is much less expensive (~$70/gal).
It's been a few years since I followed the thread, but I thought I remember that the Interlux paint still needed to be thinned, just not as much. You're saying you didn't thin it at all? How many coats did you apply?
Our very own member, Calvin, (clhyer) painted his Duster with rustoleum. I've seen it, touched it and worked on it. Up close and personal. I am here to tell you boys, that car looks GOOD.
bkbond12
Old ones need lovin too..
I would love for clhyer to chime in with some pictures. I've always thought about trying to "roll" some paint on an old junker, but have always been afraid to try it with a nicer vehicle.
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