Has anyone swapped a Holley in place of an Edelbrock on a 340?

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I can't imagine why you shouldn't be able to tailor-tune an Eddy to perform well. That being said, I'm old-school and a Holley guy from back in the day and found the Holleys very easy to work with and tune.
 
A few more things to know:

This is a new build

The pump shot is set to max

I run a fuel pressure regulator set at 6 lbs

I'm running the 31 squirter

3.55 gears
Here is the PDF from Edelbrock that expounds on pump adjustment. Read it thoroughly. You will ultimately need to bend the rod to get the proper measurements shown. You can at least get it dead right and rule out the pump circuit.
 
....and nobody has bothered to ask [ or has it been stated ?] & I missed it: WHAT IS THE IDLE TIMING.

That cam in a s/block will need at least 25-30* of timing at idle for best tip in response. Tip in response? Stops bogging! How does it do it? The extra timing produces more hp. With more HP, the engine can take the extra load being applied.

Yeah put a Holley on it, that'll fix it..... Study a diagram of a H & see how provides extra fuel....

This car has a production TQ on it that I modified. Street registered, driven to the track. It doesn't bog, gets exc economy. 455 engine, 3900 lb without driver, 3.31 diff, street radial tyres, T400 trans, idles at 850 rpm in gear, factory power brakes that have enough vacuum to work, Victor intake & 850 TQ, full exhaust. Has run 119 mph, low 11s.. No tuning/testing of carb settings or ign timing done at the track. Just drive up to the line & go....This is a 120 mph car with tweaking

img267.jpg
 
Intake is a Performer 2176

Floats confirmed to be factory spec

Pushed mineral spirits through the acell pump circuit to verify not clogged

Swapped stock acell pump 1467 for 1470. I will check out the rod bending procedure

12* initial

If I were to try a Holley, what do folks recommend?
 

Here is the car in question. Factory 4 speed 4 barrel. Has a fresh 340 build.View attachment 1716429103

Very, very nice.
I put one of the first avail 340s out of a wreck into a black twin to that, solved the traction issue, and the owner made a lotta money.

There's no good reason that carb shouldn't work, - but I regularly pick up a 3310, 780/750 Holley at a swap meet for $50 ish, kit it, adjust it to my spec, and have it sitting on the shelf waiting for the next spirited driver with a Carter/Eddy, - offer to let them try my Holley free of charge, and I'll put his old carb back on for no-charge if he's not happy.

Never put an Eddy back on, donated lotsa Eddys to charity.

True story several times over.

Good luck.
 
It may be way over simplified an answer; but my new Eddy had a pump diaphragm too small. Edelbrock tech denied it and had to get one from another aftermarket source.
 
My brother had that problem with a Diplomat he bought with a 318. Turned out to be a problem with timing. The vacuum line was hooked to manifold vacuum when he bought it so when you gunned it you lost all your vacuum advance and it bogged terrible. I guess the initial timing had been set with the line hooked up. He changed it to ported vacuum and after resetting the initial timing, it ran fine.
 
Honestly I had that same carb, never could get that bog out. Once I slapped on a Holley, that’s when I actually learned how to tune a carb.

Tuning a Holley isn’t hard, just get your jets in the ball park and set the power valve at cruise. Play with secondary springs, adjust pump shot with pump cam. And you’ll have a great tuned carb.

When I visited the NHRA museum, all the hot rods in the museum only had one brand of carburetors and it was Holley.

Edelbrock is for car shows, Holley is for performance.
My .02 cents
 
AFB carb made more hp & tq & used less fuel doing it. Before anybody claims bias, this test was looooong before Edel started making AFBs. Plus, a little known fact: Edel used to sell modified Holley carbs, tuned to work with their intakes.

img203.jpg
 
AJ/FormS --

What did you mean when you wrote: "Be sure you know the difference between a "bog" and a tip-in hesitation. Each is cured differently." The ebrock troubleshootong guide only mentions "Bogs".

I'm certainly going to adjust the accel pump rod according to the documentation provided above. Make sense to rule that as either the cause or to rule it out.
 
AFB carb made more hp & tq & used less fuel doing it. Before anybody claims bias, this test was looooong before Edel started making AFBs. Plus, a little known fact: Edel used to sell modified Holley carbs, tuned to work with their intakes.

View attachment 1716429153
The same chart from 50 years ago that you have posted multiple times, showing an AFB vs a motorhome Holley on a mileage oriented intake on an engine with a horsepower peak at 4500 rpm. Surely this is the definitive test, proving once and for all that the Ed/Carter afb is the superior carb of the universe.
 
Back in the late seventies, I had a 73 Duster 340, 727. PS, PB and A/C 3.21 gears. Bought it used in 1976, with 50,000 miles on it. My first job out of school, I had to drive 45 miles each way to work. Was getting 12.5 mpg. Plus, it was inconsistent at the strip, vapor locking half the time, and varied over a half a second range even when it didn't vapor lock. I milled the heads .030, slapped some .039 FelPro head gaskets on it, swapped the 73 intake with floor jets to a 71 intake, and bolted on a Holley 650 spread bore carb. Gas mileage went from 12.5 to 16.5, never vapor locked again, quarter mile times became a ton more consistent (tenth of a second from worst to best), and almost half a second quicker, fastest run to fastest run.

Over the years, I've run Edelbrock carbs. OK, but they don't like high volume mechanical fuel pumps, and are more prone to vapor lock than Holleys. Plus, Holleys make a bit more power, even when the cfms are the same.

I'm presently running Edelbrock carbs on a slant six, a 277 poly, a 289 Studebaker and twin AFB's on my 426 Hemi. Invariably, they flood all over the place if left sitting for a month or two. Needles and seats. Clean or replace them. Most recently, on my 63 Valiant convertible. Looked OK at a casual glance, but the needles and seats had some kind of corrosion - just enough to stick. Replaced them and they were OK. And this was a fairly new carb.

I know these issues stem from the bad gas we get these days, but Holleys seem to deal with it better - as long as you're running blue accelerator pump gaskets. Black ones will rot and leak.

Just my experience over the years. And I know there are plenty of people running Edelbrock carbs whose cars are quicker than mine So take my opinion for what it's worth. I prefer Holleys for anything over 300 cubic inches.
 
You tune any carb, but id use a holley.
Usually a good General start setting would be to set the 1406 up to 1405 specs. The 1406 is an emissions friendly ready to drop on 350 Chevy type carburetor, while the 1405 is more like something you would drop onto a warmed up 318 or stock 340.
 
AFB carb made more hp & tq & used less fuel doing it. Before anybody claims bias, this test was looooong before Edel started making AFBs. Plus, a little known fact: Edel used to sell modified Holley carbs, tuned to work with their intakes.

View attachment 1716429153
This isn't an argument about which is best. It's a help thread to get what he has fixed.
 
Cam specs given earlier in the thread. Not sure of static CR.
As a test, pull in about 18-20 degrees initial timing and see what it does. You'll probably need to idle the engine back down. Also, if that solves the issue, you'll need to limit the total mechanical advance to about 34-36 degrees, because pulling in 18-20 initial will likely put you over that.
 
As a test, pull in about 18-20 degrees initial timing and see what it does. You'll probably need to idle the engine back down. Also, if that solves the issue, you'll need to limit the total mechanical advance to about 34-36 degrees, because pulling in 18-20 initial will likely put you over that.
I will try this too.
 
Be sure you know the difference between a "bog" and a tip-in hesitation. Each is cured differently.
Other important factors are;
fuel-level, pump timing, Ignition timing, valve lash and even cylinder pressure.

What did you mean when you wrote: "Be sure you know the difference between a "bog" and a tip-in hesitation. Each is cured differently." The ebrock troubleshootong guide only mentions "Bogs".
 
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