Head gasket getting oval?

-
ja6ju7iicjk7.jpg


With this much standing oil in the cylinders, oil control needs to be addressed first. This engine is has got to be detonating, thus killing the head gaskets. 1008 Fel Pro gaskets can handle very high cylinder pressure, but detonation will kill any gasket.
 
There was no oil standing in the cylinders, only water and water in the oil, but i cleaned the cylinders and sprayed them with wd40, i wouldnt let the engine sit to dry, maybe that confusing some guys here
 
if you have 11/1 compression thats race fuel range not pump gas.
 
Since you have ARP bolts (not studs), the length could be longer than than the combo of head and washer thickness. As someone mentioned above about bolt bottoming out. I would check the bolt run down into block threads all the way then measure head thickness & washer to compare. That way the bolt would torque but not clamp the head.
 
3406pk said:
Since you have ARP bolts (not studs), the length could be longer than than the combo of head and washer thickness. As someone mentioned above about bolt bottoming out. I would check the bolt run down into block threads all the way then measure head thickness & washer to compare. That way the bolt would torque but not clamp the head.
Click to expand...

Good thought there Gary.
 
3406pk said:
Since you have ARP bolts (not studs), the length could be longer than than the combo of head and washer thickness. As someone mentioned above about bolt bottoming out. I would check the bolt run down into block threads all the way then measure head thickness & washer to compare. That way the bolt would torque but not clamp the head.
Click to expand...

Damnnnnn i just measured and you are sooo right, i threaded the bolts down the head, i had 3,307" on the longer upper bolt and 0,866" at the lower bolt, everything is measured from head gasket to under the washer bolts!

When i measured the head i had 3,46" clearance and at the under side 0,944" !

:wack:

Edit: Sorry guys now i was thinking wrong, like it is its correct because the threads of the bolts not touches the block fully
 
Question: How do you know for sure that youhave 10.5:1 CR? SInce it is a bought engine, unless the combustion chamber has been measured or the piston/head combo is fully know, you could be off .5 point of CR pretty easily.

The bolt length does need to be checked, but it seems unlikely that it would be so consistent across all of the holes; I would think it would bottom out on a hole here and there, not on them all. Similarly for the detonation; I would not expect it to occur so evenly; one or two cylinders would show it much worse than the others due to mixture and other variations, etc.. This makes me think that the intake alignment (head lift), surface finish, torque issues, or gaskets are the likely causes.
 
i cant tell 100% that i have 10:5:1 cr but i will ask my engine builder soon for the right answer, just the seller told me so
 
If you're driving around on 98 to 100 octane gas, with a 10.5 compression ratio, aluminum heads, I don't think that is your problem. As an example, contestants in "Engine Masters" have run over 12 to 1 on pump gas which I believe was/is 96 octane.

You bought this engine used, which is no big deal, done every day; did the previous owner have trouble he didn't tell you about? Did you change any thing before you put the engine into the car? He got 2000 miles, you've gotten a couple of burn outs, and some 1/4 mile runs. The ratio of run time to problems encountered just don't add up.
 
I think a lot of people are over thinking things. I think it is head gasket failure. Simple as that.
 
Well nocar51 you eliminated the bolt length as the problem area. Good luck on finding the culprit. A good mystery to solve. Just another thought is to check thickness of new gasket and one of the used (oval) gaskets to see if they are compressing evenly.
 
3406pk said:
Well nocar51 you eliminated the bolt length as the problem area. Good luck on finding the culprit. A good mystery to solve. Just another thought is to check thickness of new gasket and one of the used (oval) gaskets to see if they are compressing evenly.
Click to expand...

No i didnt find the problem with the head bolts, because the lenght of them is right, i make an edit above, when i wrote that the bolts dont hit the block with heads and gasket installed, just my thought was wrong at the first time

Peter
 
I had this very same issue with a hughes stroker magnum engine, ( 14.5 to 1 comp ) I put cometic head gaskets on and never had another issue
 
In the first post, you mention that the heads have been remachined (re-surfaced). Can you post a picture of the underside of the heads, so that the machined finish is shown? Did the gaskets fail in the same way the previous times?
 
That's the least supported area of gasket so it's normal to blow them there if there's a problem. But - it looks like whatever you thought you fixed - wasn't. I'm sure the engine guy will be able to help determine the right fix.
 
WWW.scegaskets.com has some great tech and info on head gaskets and sealing issues.

I run ProCopper gaskets with my heads O-Ringed and receiver grooves cut into the block.

Most copper head gaskets require O-Rings.

SCE ICS Titan line of head gaskets have an Integral Combustion Seal (ICS) and sealant on the coolant passages. You might want to check out their part #S69064. 4.060 bore and .043 compressed thickness
No machining for O-Rings are required .
 
I run these on my stroker, no issues. Little copper kote at assembly, worked great.
 
When you fix it this time be sure to run a bottom tap down into each hole where your bolts/studs go in the block.

I use Cometic Gaskets and ARP Head Studs on every engine now. I spray the gaskets with copper coat right before assembly. I take at least 30 minutes per side cleaning the Head Surface and the Deck surface so they are completely 100% Clean. I then set the gasket and head and I torque them to 105lbs with Lube in 5 different sequence's. 50,65,80,95 then 105lbs. Never a leak and I have not popped a gasket yet.
 
So was the head bolt length the issue? Didnt quite understand your post. Stud it! Check header flange clearance after that. I had a few high ones.
 
I think I'm with moper on this one, swapping to a different head gasket may fix the symptom, and maybe permanently, but I don't think it's as simple as saying it's head gasket failure, case closed. I say this because I have installed Fel Pro gaskets on about a half dozen different engines of different makes and the only time I had a failure was when I didn't have the head resurfaced, and that could have been a cracked head. I never got back into that engine to see. If it were me I would mark some head bolts where the gasket would meet the head and make sure they easily thread into the block at least that far. If they don't thread easily chase the holes with a tap. Then have the wrench calibrated and bolt the heads down with new gaskets. Check fitment of the intake manifold to the heads and block. If the heads and block have been milled significantly the intake may need to be milled as well. Please don't take this the wrong way, I'm just trying not to take anything for granted, but did you follow the factory torque PATTERN?
 
With the engine at the builder, make sure they check the flatness of the block surfaces too, and that they are perpendicular to the piston bores. I assume it was not trued up (ground) after the last problems? If the block surfaces are not machined perpendicular to the bores, then the heads will not align correctly to the intake.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top