Headers/Exhaust Manifolds

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flashsuperstar

flashsuperstar

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Looking for a set of inexpensive headers or exhaust manifolds for a 360 ci block with W2 race heads. Engine is going into a 1972 Plymouth Scamp.
 
I think you can buy some from summit or jegs for like 100 with free shipping thats cheap isnt it?
 
Yes, I know that they have headers for $130 which is cheap, but the problem is the W2 heads have a different exhaust bolt pattern. Thank you for the reply
 
Unfortunately, "W-2" and "inexpensive" don't go hand-in-hand. There are no OEM style exhaust manifolds for W-2 heads and, like most inexpensive headers, won't match the exhaust ports. I guess you have only the "race" exhaust port bolt pattern? Some had both.

Many W-2 headers use exhaust adapter plates. They can be a pain. TTI has a choice of 1 5/8"-1 3/4" step headers or 1 7/8" straight pipe. The step headers, despite the smaller size, are a good, versatile option. The regular port versions work great on my combo, running 11.20's and weighing 3,540+ lbs. The more HP, converter, gear, etc. you have, the better the 1 7/8" version may be. But I like to lean on the conservative side. The smaller headers can also provide just a little bit more clearance.

Step: http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-ClassicHeaders/340W2/TTi340W2.htm

Straight: http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-ClassicHeaders/340W2178/TTi340W2-178.htm

TTI's also clear all regular oil pans, including the Milodon 8 qt., and don't need an oil filter adapter. Just use the plate screwed directly into the block. Their interior and exterior coating options will help them last and probably make more HP as well by keeping more heat within the pipes. Best fitting headers available. If they touch anything, it's probably something with the chassis, frame or mounts.
 
Thank you for the reply, I am going to be ordering my complete exhaust system from TTI, I know that my heads make a unique problem as I am kinda hoping that someone may have a used set of headers that they no longer need. I am looking for exhaust item to use as a break in for the engine as it is a new rebuild and I do not want to take the chance of voiding the TTI warranty. Again, I appreciate the reply!
 
nice choice. Thats what I have on my W2 408. Step, 3inch X and out the back 2.5.

 
I've only had the X on this setup, so no comparison on this motor. I like the sound of this setup.
 
I added a TTI 3" X-pipe with 3" Dynomax UltraFlo's to their step headers, ending at the rear housing on my race only 360. It picked up a little ET and I've gotten a lot of compliments on the sound. But each combo is different and you may have to adjust jetting for optimum results.
 
Locomotion said:
I added a TTI 3" X-pipe with 3" Dynomax UltraFlo's to their step headers, ending at the rear housing on my race only 360. It picked up a little ET and I've gotten a lot of compliments on the sound. But each combo is different and you may have to adjust jetting for optimum results.
Click to expand...
Why the X-pipe, are you running your car in a street class, have cut outs or..?
 
flashsuperstar said:
Why the X-pipe, are you running your car in a street class, have cut outs or..?
Click to expand...

I race the car in IHRA Stock where they have a list of factory available crate engines that can be substituted for OEM combos. The crates have their own blueprint specs and rules, similar to "regular" Stock class cars in IHRA and NHRA. Open headers are allowed, but in talking to TTI and doing my own research, it appeared that I "might" be able to pick up a little horsepower with an X pipe. I'm always looking for ways to go faster within the strict rules.

I couldn't do a same-day back-to-back comparison, but have kept detailed records over the years. Every indication was that the car picked up between .05 and .10 in the 1/4 mile in my particular combination. My theory is that the X-pipe helped and the DynoMax UltraFlo mufflers didn't hurt. It worked best with a jet number leaner all around in the carb and the extra 60+ lbs that the pipes, mufflers and hangers added was removed from elsewhere in the car to keep the before/after weight the same. Your results may vary. You would have to experiment with your particular combo and it would depend how close and on what side of optimum jetting you would start out at.

If I wasn't convinced of the benefit, I wouldn't have kept it on the car. I have to drop the system to change the trans and it's pretty cramped when removing the center section. I also plan on having the same exhaust on my next project, which is an Aspen wagon with an OEM spec 360, so I can race it in both, NHRA and IHRA Stock. But I will be using DynoMax Race Bullet mufflers for more room around the center section. I'm anxious as heck to get it going, but time and $$$ have been limiting factors.

As a side note, I kinda got use to the quieter exhaust & like it. It actually scared me the first few times I went down the track because, despite still being loud, I heard things I never heard before! But that can be a good thing too in case a problem does develop. The Bullet mufflers will likely be a bit louder than the UltraFlos. But both are straight-through designs and I don't expect any difference in flow or performance. Also, the X-pipe ended up around the driveshaft loop and I had to "ding" it for clearance.
 

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Locomotion said:
I race the car in IHRA Stock where they have a list of factory available crate engines that can be substituted for OEM combos. The crates have their own blueprint specs and rules, similar to "regular" Stock class cars in IHRA and NHRA. Open headers are allowed, but in talking to TTI and doing my own research, it appeared that I "might" be able to pick up a little horsepower with an X pipe. I'm always looking for ways to go faster within the strict rules.

I couldn't do a same-day back-to-back comparison, but have kept detailed records over the years. Every indication was that the car picked up between .05 and .10 in the 1/4 mile in my particular combination. My theory is that the X-pipe helped and the DynoMax UltraFlo mufflers didn't hurt. It worked best with a jet number leaner all around in the carb and the extra 60+ lbs that the pipes, mufflers and hangers added was removed from elsewhere in the car to keep the before/after weight the same. Your results may vary. You would have to experiment with your particular combo and it would depend how close and on what side of optimum jetting you would start out at.


If I wasn't convinced of the benefit, I wouldn't have kept it on the car. I have to drop the system to change the trans and it's pretty cramped when removing the center section. I also plan on having the same exhaust on my next project, which is an Aspen wagon with an OEM spec 360, so I can race it in both, NHRA and IHRA Stock. But I will be using DynoMax Race Bullet mufflers for more room around the center section. I'm anxious as heck to get it going, but time and $$$ have been limiting factors.

As a side note, I kinda got use to the quieter exhaust & like it. It actually scared me the first few times I went down the track because, despite still being loud, I heard things I never heard before! But that can be a good thing too in case a problem does develop. The Bullet mufflers will likely be a bit louder than the UltraFlos. But both are straight-through designs and I don't expect any difference in flow or performance. Also, the X-pipe ended up around the driveshaft loop and I had to "ding" it for clearance.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the tips, I am sure they will prove very useful!
 
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