Heater Core Removal

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pa karp

pa karp

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My heater core is leaking in my 69 'Cuda. what steps are involved in removing the core?

Interesting situation here! I have not started the car since the motor was rebuilt. The only way we could figure water filled the heater core was through syphoning. Weird deal!

Thanks

Curt Rees
 
I just finished the one on my wifes duster. pretty simple and straight forward. I did have to remove the glove box and radio for wiggle room. If it's an A/C car its like stuffing and 11 pound bowling ball in a 10 pound bag.
 
No ac. Did you have to remove the blower motor? I figured the glove box would need to come out.

Thanks,

Curt Rees
 
I own a 67/68 Barracuda and just removed the A/C heater unit. It came out with the blower motor all in one piece. Also there is a long heavy wire that hooks into the passenger side upper metal duct (into the front fresh air cowl area). If you don't unbolt this hook (screws are inside the right vent door) you'll never get it out. This hook helps support the weight of the unit. All the other bolts/screws and removed from the engine compartment.

Treblig
 
Actually,, you can take out the glove box,, and pop all the clips that hold the 2 halves of the heater box together,, and just pull the back half off,, leaving the rest of the housing, cables, ducts, and blower motor attached to the firewall.. remove the core, (don't forget to remove the screw between the outlets, engine side, when you disconnect the hoses), sqeeze the coolant outta the foam pieces,, and reverse to install..

Some of the clips can be a pain to get off,, a long skinny screwdriver helps..

and putting the clips back on can be a challenge,, but can be done, using patients and imagination..

hope it helps
 
Thanks, for the advice! Sounds like t should not be a major project.

Thanks,

Curt Rees
 
Probably about as easy to pull the whole box out, and that way you can renew it on the bench (new foam seals, etc). For sure remove the glove box liner so you can see the hidden top rod and easily undo the cables and wiring. The nuts on the engine side of the firewall are pretty obvious (3 nuts in my cars).
 
INERTIA is actually right , i changed one in a 69 Barracuda i had about 10 years ago .The only thing you have to take off is heater hoses under hood , and the rest is just clips and few screws under dash , very easy.
 
I got a chance to work on the heater core for a short period of time this morning. I have all the bottom clips off.

The car is getting the exhaust handled right now. I lucked out there also, as my exhaust specialist says the mufflers and tails pipes are OK. They have the "resto" look but are solid, so all I will need is the head pipes.

The exhaust will probably be done today. If so, I will bring the car back to my shop and complete the heater core removal.

Thanks for the advice and help! Another project with the car to be completed.

Curt Rees
 
So, is it REALLY easier to argue all the clips 'n things rather than remove the box? There's not that much, holds it in there................. Hey, I'm just askin. When I pulled mine out, the interior was already out...............
 
Charge out price,, plain and simple,,

I can charge you 1.3 hrs, or 2.+ hrs

$130 or $200+ plus extra parts because the duct hoses usually shred, the foam seal around the cold air intake shreds, then trying to wrestle the whole box out under the dash without scratching anything important. Remember to mask off the blower motor, or it'll get scratched up. The install usually means 2 or 3 trips from under the dash to the engine bay, to line up the blower bolt holes or some such,, You have to adjust and re-adjust the control cables..

I've never really asked the customers if I can charge them more than book, just because I wanted it to be, ahhh - easier,, or trying to rip them off,, or just don't know the efficient/proper way to service their vehicle..

AND,, that's what the much touted Service Manual says.. !!! lol
 
I find it easier to just yank out the whole box. That way you can work on it easier, fix all the broken stuff & replace any and all bad foam, fix the non-working rusty door etc. It's just no fun fighting the clips way up under the dash.
 
I ended up pulling the complete box. The more I took apart the more problems I found. Even the controls need to come out.

I am going to have the core repaired and stick it back together. The rebuild can come this winter I may try to find a good used box.

Curt Rees
:burnout:
 
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