Heater, radio removal ?

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07raptorgytr

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I'm trying to remove the radio, heater controls and the trim that surround them. Since the trim is 40 something years old I'm sure it is quite brittle. So I do not want to be prying on it too much so I do not break it. So my question is, how is all of this held in place on the dash? I need behind this stuff to replace the connector arm and bushing for the pass side wiper assembly.
 
Trim is usually held on by Pal nuts on the back side. Year you are working on would help narrow removal down
 
pull the glove box liner. Reach in and feel around for some pal nuts on plastic posts. 3/8 hex I think. In most cases, one or more will refuse to follow the thread they cut going on to back off again. Get the ones that will come off. Wedges between dash and bezel in these areas help persuade the other nuts.
I have dropped the climate controller and worked through that opening rather than pull the entire bezel. The climate controller has a support limb on this right side only. Goes up to attach at speaker bracket I think.
Please note; all OEM wiper linkage bushing are the same age. In my experience, to pull both pivots and kit service them so they move freely/like new, and replacing all the bushings is best plan.
 
Agreed with Redfish, also do the seals now you are in there and the radio prob has a support bracket on the back also, way easier to pull the glove box liner also.
 
pull the glove box liner. Reach in and feel around for some pal nuts on plastic posts. 3/8 hex I think. In most cases, one or more will refuse to follow the thread they cut going on to back off again. Get the ones that will come off. Wedges between dash and bezel in these areas help persuade the other nuts.
I have dropped the climate controller and worked through that opening rather than pull the entire bezel. The climate controller has a support limb on this right side only. Goes up to attach at speaker bracket I think.
Please note; all OEM wiper linkage bushing are the same age. In my experience, to pull both pivots and kit service them so they move freely/like new, and replacing all the bushings is best plan.
Agree, that is my plan, Iam replacing all of the bushings at the same time. Thanks guys
 
Agree, that is my plan, Iam replacing all of the bushings at the same time. Thanks guys

A lot of owners have replaced OEM bushings that lasted 30 plus years. Then their replacements lasted only 1 to 3 years. They often blame the quality of aftermarket replacements. Wear and/or binding in the pivot posts is more likely the fault.
The pivot shaft rotates only about 1/2 round with force always at 1 angle. The bronze bushings inside wear to one side. So...
If you do drop the pivots to kit service, you could mark the bottom of the housing with a sharpie first, then reinstall rotated 180 degrees ( marks to the top ). This puts the work load toward less worn bushing walls.
You wont find new shafts for these pivots or anyone who rebuilds them. Thus anything we can do to get longer life from them and those plastic linkage bushings is worth the effort. Smoother quieter operation is a bonus.
 
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