Help - Adjusting ‘67 904 console floor shifter

[Bobacuda]

Inertia - The lever goes all the way up and can’t go any farther in the console. The shift lever aligns with the P indicator.

I adjusted the button just to eliminate the possibility it’s blocking.

When the shift lever aligns with R, reverse lights come on, even if the trans thinks it’s in N or P.

4spdragtop - Found some old photos, but they are not all that helpful. Ran into too many things today, will try to pull the console tomorrow and take some photos and will post many tomorrow. I do know the bent torque shaft is keyed, don’t remember if the new one is keyed . Will find out tomorrow.

 

[Inertia]

The first pic shows yellow shifter in blue "P" gate
2nd pic shows 1 gate
3rd pic shows N
You often have to unscrew the knob a few turns to get enuff down travel of the yellow piece to get over to the P gate .

 

[oldkimmer]

The reverse lights only come on if the rooster comb has selected reverse in the transmission 1969 up. How did u wire in the reverse lights?

 

[Dana67Dart]

Trying to work off measurements is not the way to go unless you have known numbers to work from. With the multiple moving parts they may not be what you think they should be

The number I was looking for is the ratio of the shifter to the ratio of the trans lever.

If one moves 3 inches from park to low and the other mover 2 inches then the ratios are off. Meaning that a lever arm somewhere is too long or too short

 

[Dana67Dart]

When the shift lever aligns with R, reverse lights come on, even if the trans thinks it’s in N or P.

The reverse light switch in a 67 is in the console (or on the column for column shifted cars)

So assuming it is installed and functioning correctly your back up lights should light when the selector is in R regardless of if the trans is connected or not.

 

[Bobacuda]

Dana67Dart - the R light switch on the shifter triggers the R light. That tells me the shifter lever is in the R position. The only things I can determine that might be causing the problem:
1. The new torque shaft is not keyed properly at the top, affecting the position of the lever at the bottom.
2. The adjustable repop shifter rod is not shaped in a functional way. The shifter had a cobbled up shifter rod when I got the car (did not run). Half fell off and got lost, but I have a photo I’ll share.

3. A Volare 904 has something internal that does not work with the ‘67 shifter.
4. I am a not a rocket scientist .

I know #4 is true. When I get the console out I will take photos and try to determine if #1 or 2 is the issue.

Will post photos and share what I find tomorrow.

I am close to taking the torque shaft to a friends garage and using his torch and a BFH to straighten it.

 

[Cuda Al]

The bugger welded rod should be an adjustable link rod.


Alan

 

[Bobacuda]

I have the repop adjustable link. The problem I have is that the shifter doesn't want to work with a trans…

 

[Cuda Al]

I have the repop adjustable link. The problem I have is that the shifter that doesn't want to work with a trans…

Maybe that rod is the problem??


Alan

 

[oldkimmer]

The shift lever on the tranny is from the newer car. It may be shaped differently than the one u need. Did u change the welded up rod?

 

[Bobacuda]

Never got a chance to try it or use it. The crap weld fell apart and one end got lost.

This car was patched together in a New Mexico junkyard years before I got it. Lots of sketchy mechanical stuff… like 4 non matching shocks, split household extension cord used in wiring, etc. I’ve been able to correct the vast majority of the JY-Engineering, but this one is driving me nuts.

 

[Dana67Dart]

The bugger welded rod should be an adjustable link rod

That looks like RoadKill made it

 

[Dana67Dart]

Any idea what position the trans lever and the shift lever are each in in this photo?

 

[Bobacuda]

No. it’s always the photos and notes you don’t take that you need.

In the photo, the bracket holding the torque shaft at the bottom is new. The one that was on the car when I first got it is a real work of JY Engineering. It will be in photos posted later.

My son said the previous owner must have acquired the car from “Junkyard Wars.”

 

[Bobacuda]

If the computer and the website cooperate, I have a number of photos. Will probably take several entries.

This is when i took the car apart, with the bent torque shaft. Wish I had more photos and notes, but I don't. I don't know for certain what gear the shifter is in (D?). Got to love that JY bottom bracket...

 

[4spdragtop]

Your issue is the last pic. That's a cobbled up bracket.

 

[Dana67Dart]

I know you have corrected the shaft attachment by replacing the lower attachment.

I suspect the strap lower attachment caused the shaft to lean back. (Red) vs straight up and down ( green)

 

[Bobacuda]

I spent another 5 hrs going back and forth - thank God I have a lift. I pulled the console. Every time I thought I had the shifter adjusted, it hit the gears; However, the second time through it was off.

The arm from the shift lever to the lever at the top of the torque shaft was quite loose. Apparently the interior guys took the lever off - all of the thin, shim washers were in one place. I redistributed washers and added another to tighten the motion. That had it hitting the gears when I quit for the day - tired, cold and hungry. It appears the sloppy motion was enough to overlap R & N on an irregular basis. If you did not compensate for the sloppy, the P position might be R. Anyhow, quitting while ahead seemed like a good idea because I did not want to argue with possible success.

I have to go back and study up on the use of the 3 prong neutral safety switch in a car made for a one wire switch. The car currently starts in N, not in gear, but it only intermittently starts in P. If I have to live with that, I can, but I would like to get it right.

At this time, ASSUMING it all continues to shift, the problem appears to be slack in the linkage (the shim issue) created enough sloppy movement that it was impossible to get it properly aligned.

Park


Park


First

 

[Dana67Dart]

At this time, ASSUMING it all continues to shift, the problem appears to be slack in the linkage (the shim issue) created enough sloppy movement that it was impossible to get it properly aligned

See you are a rocket scientist.

I don't recall anyone else thinking about loose joints!

Congrats!

 

[str12-340]

You replaced the bent vertical shaft somewhere in all this correct?

 

[Bobacuda]

I replaced the bent torque shaft when I put the car back together. I thought it was working when it went to interior shop, but I may have been wrong. Shifter issues were noted after that.

The shaft from the shifter to the lever on top of the torque shaft was loose. When shifter locked in P, the torque shaft could rotate about 1/4”, so I could not get the trans and shifter consistently locked in. Re-shimming that upper shifter rod appears to be the solution, so far.

Hopefully the shifter is now resolved. Got to test it under real world conditions.

 

[mrbill00]

Following this one.. I'm having the very similar issues with a 71 Duster.

Problems with adjusting park, working once then not working next cycle. wont start in P, just N
Also have noticed button not going far enough for 1st.( sometimes it does but the next time it wont)
Am going to check all these this week>>>>Sloppy shifter and possible length issue with the trans lever.
Car has been apart 30 years.
Thanks!!

 

[oldkimmer]

Following this one.. I'm having the very similar issues with a 71 Duster.

Problems with adjusting park, working once then not working next cycle. wont start in P, just N
Also have noticed button not going far enough for 1st.( sometimes it does but the next time it wont)
Am going to check all these this week>>>>Sloppy shifter and possible length issue with the trans lever.
Car has been apart 30 years.
Thanks!!

The shifter button is adjustable give it a turn or 2. U may have to loosen the set screw. Kim

 

[Bobacuda]

To get mine adjusted, I removed the console to get to the upper part of the linkage. There was lots of slop that a few, properly spaced washers mostly eliminated. Allowed me to see where the button would need to be adjusted to to shift the gears.

Following the shop manual procedure and advice from the folks here, I then put the shifter in park and got underneath, again, for the umpteenth time.

I confirmed it was in P by trying to push it (by hand) and then starting it. Moved the shifter through gears and feeling it engage. Back to P… nothing. It now indicated that R was P. It would start in N, which was really P.

Back underneath, getting ready to fabricate a new lower shifter rod, when I noticed the shift lever on the trans was not in the P position when the shifter was.

I figured out I could push the trans shift lever further back than necessary.

I disconnected the lower shifter rod, pushed the trans shift lever as far back as possible, then brought the shift lever forward till it clicked.

Lowered the car and confirmed it was in P, then connected the shifter rod with shifter in P.

Put the car though all shifts. Success!

It still has some old gremlins. P is fine. Got to N and push shifter forward for R. Go to 2, then push forward for D. It’s easier than it sounds.

Anyhow, that’s how I got mine adjusted.