Help me put "587" heads on a 318

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Shane65

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Looking for some advice on this setup.. I have some heads from a '73 340 that have been laying around in my garage for a while, and want to put them on my 318 that's in my '68 barracuda.. I've done quite a bit of reading on this, sounds like I need to mill 40 to 50 thousandths off the bottom of heads to raise the compression... the heads could probably also use a freshening, some have recommended stainless valves.. I want to do what's best, but also I'm on a pretty tight budget.. I'm fairly new to engine work especially with mopars, so what should I tell my machine shop to make this happen without breaking the bank?
 
Depends on what you are doing....daily driver, weekend racer or ?

I raced with stock valves for 20 years before aftermarket parts arrived on the scene...

If your stock valves are good use them... I'd have your shop take a close look at the guides and seats. Buy new springs and have the rockers disassembled and cleaned/checked.

The last set of j heads I had done cost me $718.00 out the door. New stainless valves, bronze guides, springs, retainers, locks, angle mill for compression...the works.
 
Those heads will lower compression a little, but I would not mill them to get the compression up.... You will get increased performance with the better flow/larger ports...

If you want to keep compression up, then I would recommend using a 66 or 67 273/318 head with closed chambers to increase the compression a bit... I am doing this right now on a 72 318... With 360 heads, it is at 7.6 compression, and with the -920 heads and .040" head gasket brings us up to 8.6 compression... I had 360 valves installed (1.88" intake and 1.60" exhaust) and the heads ported...

Or if you want to get the compression up with the 360 head, install a set of 10.5 compression 318 pistons with a 360 head and a .065" fel pro gasket will give you 9.2 compression...
 
Those heads will lower compression a little, but I would not mill them to get the compression up.... You will get increased performance with the better flow/larger ports...


If you want to keep compression up, then I would recommend using a 66 or 67 273/318 head with closed chambers to increase the compression a bit... I am doing this right now on a 72 318... With 360 heads, it is at 7.6 compression, and with the -920 heads and .040" head gasket brings us up to 8.6 compression... I had 360 valves installed (1.88" intake and 1.60" exhaust) and the heads ported...

Or if you want to get the compression up with the 360 head, install a set of 10.5 compression 318 pistons with a 360 head and a .065" fel pro gasket will give you 9.2 compression...
K.K. option three obviously preference. Option two : Add the Crane 216 /228 on a112 l.c. maybe some Rhoades lifters ( gears and converter ?:) ...
 
Shaving the crap out of a set of heads then puts you in the territory of needing a different (shorter) push rod!
 
Valve springs, if red 340, are good to go, new is a waste of money. Good valve job! Replace the exhaust valves with stainless ones if worn. Intake valves should be good. Mill .04 off the block side .038 off the intake side. Tighten up the guides, knurl or line, and use Viton valve seals. Use spacers under the rocker shafts to use stock pushrods.
 
If it was me - I would either totally ignore them and bolt them on with the valves lapped, new valve seals, springs to match you cam, or do them right. Right for me is a complete rebuild for performance. I would assume they will need guides, new performance valves, 5-angle cutter valve job, cut the spring seats and guides, etc. Ignore the milling aside from truing them up. If the 318 is a place holder and you have a plan for what's next, ignore them. If that plan includes reusing the heads on the new engine, go through them properly. Budget in my area for top quality work would need $1500 if they are all complete ready to bolt on. Less money and quality can be had.
 
I WOULD NOT RUN THOSE HEADS in unmilled condition with factory pistons. You will get BETTER performance with the stock heads and a mild cam with the "slightly better" compression. The lowered compression will kill that engine on bottom/ mid range.

Milling? probably yes
 
If it was me - I would either totally ignore them and bolt them on with the valves lapped, new valve seals, springs to match you cam, or do them right. Right for me is a complete rebuild for performance. I would assume they will need guides, new performance valves, 5-angle cutter valve job, cut the spring seats and guides, etc. Ignore the milling aside from truing them up. If the 318 is a place holder and you have a plan for what's next, ignore them. If that plan includes reusing the heads on the new engine, go through them properly. Budget in my area for top quality work would need $1500 if they are all complete ready to bolt on. Less money and quality can be had.

Why rebuild for $1500, when for that price you can get these...

IMMENGINES.COM
 
I think better options are out there than using 587 head. Find a set of 302 heads and do a home port job on them that is in the sticky section. Even doing a port job on your current 318 heads would probabally be better than using heads from a 360. Larger chambers&ports on a teen will soften the bottom end up especially if the car has a tight converter and highway gears. If it were me, I'd work a set of 318 heads before using the 587's.
 
Looking for some advice on this setup.. I have some heads from a '73 340 that have been laying around in my garage for a while, and want to put them on my 318 that's in my '68 barracuda.. I've done quite a bit of reading on this, sounds like I need to mill 40 to 50 thousandths off the bottom of heads to raise the compression... the heads could probably also use a freshening, some have recommended stainless valves.. I want to do what's best, but also I'm on a pretty tight budget.. I'm fairly new to engine work especially with mopars, so what should I tell my machine shop to make this happen without breaking the bank?

IMO, if you're looking for teener-power, there are better ideas..
IMO, if you're looking for street performance, there are a ton of other things I would do first.
 
Hmmm looks like we got a pretty wide spectrum of responses here.. from "do it" to "use something else".

Let me re-iterate, I'm on a pretty tight budget, and yeah this is mostly for street performance.. Was hoping to get out the door for $500-750, if I had to spend a grand, maybe I could justify it?. These heads are just sitting in my garage... would there be any benefit to putting these on over my stock 318 heads?

My 318 is a stock 68 2 barrel.. i was originally just going to get a edelbrock performer or weiand stealth intake for the 318 and put a 4 barrel carb on it (that would be about 500 bucks). But my next thought was how bout I freshen up these 587 heads and this LD340 intake (that I also have just taking up space in my garage) with a 4 barrel carb and see what that does to the lil 318...

thoughts?
 
Hmmm looks like we got a pretty wide spectrum of responses here.. from "do it" to "use something else".

Let me re-iterate, I'm on a pretty tight budget, and yeah this is mostly for street performance.. Was hoping to get out the door for $500-750, if I had to spend a grand, maybe I could justify it?. These heads are just sitting in my garage... would there be any benefit to putting these on over my stock 318 heads?

My 318 is a stock 68 2 barrel.. i was originally just going to get a edelbrock performer or weiand stealth intake for the 318 and put a 4 barrel carb on it (that would be about 500 bucks). But my next thought was how bout I freshen up these 587 heads and this LD340 intake (that I also have just taking up space in my garage) with a 4 barrel carb and see what that does to the lil 318...

thoughts?
Budget? have the 587 heads cut .040 (you'll need it to get back the amount you loose on the head gasket). Lap the valves at home, may need to replace the exhaust valves. put your LD340 with a 4 bbl and you'll have a big "seat of the pants" difference.
 
Why rebuild for $1500, when for that price you can get these...

IMMENGINES.COM

Assuming you're asking me personally. No way would I pay that plus shipping for those heads. If I was to spend $1500 on a set of heads I needed that performance potential from, I'd spend $2200 and do aluminum. Besides, I can make 480hp with a small hydraulic flat tappet with mildly cleaned up factory heads. But that's me.
 
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