j par
Well-hung Member
The 68 has that same (cheesy looking) 25% less contact area rebuild front band that came in the rebuild kit. I guess there could be technology in that band?
help needed with 904
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j par
Well-hung Member
Greese the stator 10-4 . Gotter...
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Some guys do grease up the pump. I just use ATF.
But I do grease up every piece of rubber with the silicon, and a dab of grease on every bushing and thrust washer, and oil up the rear sprag and ya-da-ya-da........Pre-soak the bands and clutches.Pre-test the rear extension bushing
But I do grease up every piece of rubber with the silicon, and a dab of grease on every bushing and thrust washer, and oil up the rear sprag and ya-da-ya-da........Pre-soak the bands and clutches.Pre-test the rear extension bushing
j par
Well-hung Member
Okay went down to Portland Transmission first thing this morning and brought my seals. We looked at a seal kit and it still wasn't right so he brought out the three boxes of miscellaneous kits. We found the seals and a couple extras in there and he was kind and said just take them. Thank goodness this place is here in town! So like I said I could have it all apart in one minute and all be together the next and as a matter of fact it's together! at least underneath the valve body. But this is ADHD transmission here so I got to take her back apart! I had .060 Clarence so I'll have to take out the thrush washers and get bigger ones. But I believe that can be expected? I'll have to double check double check the spec on this transmission to make sure but I'm pretty sure that's way too much. it should just be a 15-minute procedure at the most. Like 5 minutes to take it out in 10 minutes to put it back in if that. It'll be the drive down to Portland Transmission take much longer. I was doomed to take another trip down there anyways the tail housing seal or I should say slip yoke seal was too small on the outer circumference? Good gravy...
I'll share a couple pictures here first the picture of that little piece of metal I used in the vice to get the center spring that is the third reverse drum. I wouldn't even want that tool that you have to buy it looks like it would take a lot longer. That was just a piece of looked like 3 inch stock I had laying around and I had to beat it in the center to make it a little wider and beat it back and forth till I got it just right. The second picture is a looped lag bolts that I had in my scrap bin and made them into adapters to put the transmission on my motor stand and I was able to tilt the stand back to work on the modulators.
I'll share a couple pictures here first the picture of that little piece of metal I used in the vice to get the center spring that is the third reverse drum. I wouldn't even want that tool that you have to buy it looks like it would take a lot longer. That was just a piece of looked like 3 inch stock I had laying around and I had to beat it in the center to make it a little wider and beat it back and forth till I got it just right. The second picture is a looped lag bolts that I had in my scrap bin and made them into adapters to put the transmission on my motor stand and I was able to tilt the stand back to work on the modulators.
j par
Well-hung Member
Definitely different. It's a 76 360 904/999 standard ?
But here's the thing- when I went to Portland tranny this morning and the guy pulled out the supplementary seal only kit for 72 and up and it still wasn't the same. It was when we went through those three boxes of extra kit stuff is when we found it? Oh you know my luck that I have likely one of Ma Mopar's Mistry Transmissions LOL
But here's the thing- when I went to Portland tranny this morning and the guy pulled out the supplementary seal only kit for 72 and up and it still wasn't the same. It was when we went through those three boxes of extra kit stuff is when we found it? Oh you know my luck that I have likely one of Ma Mopar's Mistry Transmissions LOL
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
There is a tool for checking end play before the pump ever goes in, but only shops have them unless someone is into it more than most.
You set it up like you see in the pic and then flip it over so it shows the distance between the pump surface on the case to the front drum washer surface.
When you open ADHD Transmissions you might pick one up.
Greasing the pump gears heavily insures the pump gears seal really well on startup to get fluid moving right away. (not a huge deal)
DON'T forget to air check that thing before you put a valve body on it.
Servo's should snap out and back in with not very much extra air noise.
Clutchpacks should make a clunk type sound when they apply and you will hear a little air escaping down inside the trans. (this is just air getting around sealing rings and such, and is normal.)
Fluid is much thicker and won't get past things near as easy.
Of course that isn't a Chrysler pump, but the tool works the same way with other transmissions.
You set it up like you see in the pic and then flip it over so it shows the distance between the pump surface on the case to the front drum washer surface.
When you open ADHD Transmissions you might pick one up.
Greasing the pump gears heavily insures the pump gears seal really well on startup to get fluid moving right away. (not a huge deal)
DON'T forget to air check that thing before you put a valve body on it.
Servo's should snap out and back in with not very much extra air noise.
Clutchpacks should make a clunk type sound when they apply and you will hear a little air escaping down inside the trans. (this is just air getting around sealing rings and such, and is normal.)
Fluid is much thicker and won't get past things near as easy.
Of course that isn't a Chrysler pump, but the tool works the same way with other transmissions.
j par
Well-hung Member
My question is should I just add the whole .040+ to that front washer or all three of them a little bit?
There is a tool for checking end play before the pump ever goes in, but only shops have them unless someone is into it more than most.
You set it up like you see in the pic and then flip it over so it shows the distance between the pump surface on the case to the front drum washer surface.
When you open ADHD Transmissions you might pick one up.
Greasing the pump gears heavily insures the pump gears seal really well on startup to get fluid moving right away. (not a huge deal)
DON'T forget to air check that thing before you put a valve body on it.
Servo's should snap out and back in with not very much extra air noise.
Clutchpacks should make a clunk type sound when they apply and you will hear a little air escaping down inside the trans. (this is just air getting around sealing rings and such, and is normal.)
Fluid is much thicker and won't get past things near as easy.
Of course that isn't a Chrysler pump, but the tool works the same way with other transmissions.
View attachment 1715044837
j par
Well-hung Member
Oh yeah in the video 70aarcuda sent me it showed just two push everything in, put vice grips on it, pull it out and put a feeler gauge behind it? it was awesome!
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
The problem with that question is that you don't want to move sealing rings to far out of place in their bores or you will have a major fluid pressure loss.
Without being there, and out of giving you a safe answer I would have to say to try and make it up with a couple of them at least. (like the one between the the input and output shafts and the pump washer)
If you try to do it all at the front drum to pump washer you might end up getting the rings too far out and not cover the hole the fluid goes through to apply that clutch.
j par
Well-hung Member
I had forgot about that one on the pump I was just going to put probably 15-20 thousandths on each, the little one and the one between the two hubs?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
The one on the pump is the one most use for setting the endplay (to a point)
j par
Well-hung Member
Well I know I got to at least rock-bottom take 20 to 30 thousands out of it. I'd like to take more? Now the question is do I take most of it out of the front and then a little bit of each one of the others all of it out of the front a little out of each oh my God it's time for a bowl of cereal and bed LOL
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I couldn't say it better than Tracy did, so this is a quote.
In this case the endplay was too tight, but you get the idea.
"The front clutch carrier to the front pump and thrust washer between the clutch packs should be .061~.063. The drivetrain end play is set using different thickness thrust washers between the input shaft and output shaft. They come in 3 different thicknesses but by your description your issue may be the thrust washer between the clutch packs is too thick. If it's not .061~.063" change it and re-check the end play. The factory serv. manual calls for .022-.091 end play. I like them tight so things aren't slapping back and forth and I shoot for .020".
In this case the endplay was too tight, but you get the idea.
"The front clutch carrier to the front pump and thrust washer between the clutch packs should be .061~.063. The drivetrain end play is set using different thickness thrust washers between the input shaft and output shaft. They come in 3 different thicknesses but by your description your issue may be the thrust washer between the clutch packs is too thick. If it's not .061~.063" change it and re-check the end play. The factory serv. manual calls for .022-.091 end play. I like them tight so things aren't slapping back and forth and I shoot for .020".
j par
Well-hung Member
Well I'm definitely under .091? It seems to me this would have more effect on the "clunk" when it goes in gear then overall performance? A little loose sounds less restricted?
if indeed it is plenty in spec I might just leave it alone.
if indeed it is plenty in spec I might just leave it alone.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Performance wise it won't make a difference.
But if you have .040 at that front drum to pump I would try and take some of that up if I could.
j par
Well-hung Member
I had to drop the ball on this transmission for 48 hours to go camp at the dragstrip and race all day. It was ruff, but someone had to do it right?
Back on track today. I have to get a tailshaft seal? The innerseal is correct, but the outer is smaller than the circumference of the tail housing. They're both the flat kind. The one from the kit is the kind that protrude out in the back and have a little half inch protruding. Probably some kind of upgrade? And to re-recap LOL this will be trip #4 down to Portland Transmission! Soooo I better pull that pump back off and see if I can get another thrush washer. And remember where I was at with this project.
Back on track today. I have to get a tailshaft seal? The innerseal is correct, but the outer is smaller than the circumference of the tail housing. They're both the flat kind. The one from the kit is the kind that protrude out in the back and have a little half inch protruding. Probably some kind of upgrade? And to re-recap LOL this will be trip #4 down to Portland Transmission! Soooo I better pull that pump back off and see if I can get another thrush washer. And remember where I was at with this project.
j par
Well-hung Member
Well I went down to get the parts and of course they had the tail gasket which should have been in the kit. nothing in a shim kit. Of course they gave me the same shim that I already had which had an extra two hundred thousand on it. Another transmission warehouse even an older one in town and they had a big huge shim kit they wanted another $30 for and I'm not going to spend more money on this transmission like that if I don't need to. I need to do a little research here to see if how much this is going to hurt performance and or longevity. If I come to find out that it's not going to hurt performance and it may just hurts a little bit of longevity then I'm good to go. The second transmission warehouse actually had a part of the shop that did transmission rebuild and their mechanic came out and said that if I'm going to run a shift kit and drag racing and stuff like that that I would want it on the loose side anyway. So we can leave that one out for arguing if you like.
j par
Well-hung Member
Well I've gotten the word Atsg manual says .022 - .091.
I'm @ .060 or so I'm slappin that thing back together tomorrow! Wiat, it's today....
I'm @ .060 or so I'm slappin that thing back together tomorrow! Wiat, it's today....
J par, this is the best advice I can give you. Look around the neighborhood for about a 10 year old girl, and turn the project over to her! All this technical stuff, questions, and you were told on the 1st page a 10 year old girl could do it.
about 7 years away from being able to do the tranny for ya, J par...... 
j par
Well-hung Member
Yes, shockingly easy. Easier than the four speed.
j par
Well-hung Member
I'll put this together and start cleaning the exterior of the valve body and probably a general clean up of my work area AGAIN!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
J par, this is the best advice I can give you. Look around the neighborhood for about a 10 year old girl, and turn the project over to her! All this technical stuff, questions, and you were told on the 1st page a 10 year old girl could do it.
That's why ADHD Transmission and Performance is ADHD Transmission and Peformance. It's the hard way, every time. He needs a 10 year old to help him with the trans and a good 15 year old boy to help him port heads.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Just think Jason, on the next one you have a much better idea of what you will run into.
Don't forget to air check.
I was worried someone wouldn't go race on the weekend, so thanks for doing that for us.
Gotta take one for the team once in awhile.
Don't forget to air check.
I was worried someone wouldn't go race on the weekend, so thanks for doing that for us.
Gotta take one for the team once in awhile.
j par
Well-hung Member
A904G - This was a three front clutch, two rear clutch transmission used with Slant six cars. In 1980, the A-904G got the 2.74:1 first gear ratio and 1.54:1 second gear ratio. The 904 was later redesignated as the 32RH and the "2" is the rated torque capacity in hundreds of ft. lbs. (200 ft. lbs.) A904LA - The A-904LA was used with the new LA 273 V8 engine.A998 - The A998 was a four front clutch, three rear clutch transmission used in 318 2 barrel cars and had four or five clutches. The four clutch 998 had made it's first appearance in police car form in 1975 in the 360 2 barrell (Federal) Dodge Coronet. All 1981-1988 A998s had the 2.74:1 first gear ratio, 1.54:1 second gear ratio and a five clutch direct drum. A998 did not have the double wrap low & reverse band like the A999.A999 - The A999 appeared in 1974 as a beefier small case transmission to put behind 360s. It was widely used in 360 equipped B-bodies and and C-bodies. It had a five disc front clutch pack, a three disc rear clutch pack, a 2.45:1 first gear ratio and a double wrap low & reverse band. A lockup version of the A999 appeared around 1980. Around 1981, the A999 got a 2.74:1 first gear ratio and 1.54:1 second gear ratio, along with all other 900-series Torqueflites. In 1984, the A999 appeared in 318 4 barrel equipped police cars, replacing the standard 727 transmission used before that time.
I pasted that just to show not all 904s are the same and if given a choice some are better than others. I started with the 68 tranny and this 76 is much beefier. As a matter of fact I am going to re-inspect the front band and consider reinstalling it as is 25% wider than the one in the rebuild kit.
I pasted that just to show not all 904s are the same and if given a choice some are better than others. I started with the 68 tranny and this 76 is much beefier. As a matter of fact I am going to re-inspect the front band and consider reinstalling it as is 25% wider than the one in the rebuild kit.
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