Help on rebuilding a 73 340

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dancinwulf

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I have been running a 318 in my 70 Duster I just acquired a 73 340 which I understand is some what detuned from the earlier 340s I have a set of 302 heads but not sure if I should use those or the 340 heads that came on it and how about cams want to keep it a driver but would like to have a little more juice also should I stay with the stock intake manifold and Thermo quad or go with some after market. Would appreciate any advice you can give
 
The '73 - 340 has a lower compression ratio, smaller valves.
This can be ignored during the rebuild with high compression pistons and work on the heads to install 2.02's. Or Edelbrock heads.

Sell the 302's, roll the money over into your build.

The stock intake and carb are very good street performers though your going to get a lot of people screaming get a Holley! If the TQ is in good shape, use it! The stock intake is also a very good performer. You can upgrade to a better unit later.
(A Weiand Action Plus or RPM)

Cam wise, a lot depends on the expectations you have and what else your to change.
What are your gears now?
Will you change them out to 3.91's or 4.10 or .....
And the torque converter will need to be changed for best results if not to avoid a sluggish car frma stand still launch. Anything greater than [email protected] on the cam specs should have a greater stall.

So a cam recommendation can not be made until other things are figured out.
 
The detune on those was a drop in the CR,Some carb tweaks, and retarded timing,and a downsize of vaves to 1.88. IIRC that was all.
Is the motor currently assembled and could be installed/run as is?
What are your expectations?
How do you intend to drive it?
More juice than what? Your 318?
What tranny and gears do you currently have, or are you planning any changes?
What tires will you be running?
How deep are your pockets?
DD,Weekend warrior,Parade, Occasional use,Got to stomp all my buddies?
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Heres where this is going; Doh, Rumble snuck in on me.
-Some guys want a 500hp dragonslayer to idle around the DQ.Some guys wanna go 11s on $200. And some just wanna drive back and forth to work all summer, go for a Saturday cruise, and maybe honk on it now and then.Where do you fit in?
 
hi, the 1.88 int valve is sufficient to make good power, esp if you install sst valves. the port velocity is very good with those. the 73 should have the 587 heads. those flow very good!!!! the stock int and T.Q are very good items. in stock elim, those 340's can run low 11 sec to high 10 sec. the low comp motors are runners. the comp 262 extreme energy cam works great in the 340 for street use.
 
You could blueprint a stone stock 73 340 hang headers off it, put a good hot ignition curve on it, some 391 gears and be faster than probably 90% of the stuff on the street where you are. Runnin all day on 87 octane.
 
My Aspen I just sold had a 73 340 with stock 587 heads, had the 68-71 stock pistons in it though. Ran pretty good with a MP .497/296 circle track hydro cam, 273 rockers, headers, Holley 650 DP on a Holley strip dominator, 904 trans w/ 3k converter, 3.91 gears. Recurved dizzy and orange MP box. Ran 13.3 on its only trip to the track, no tuning. Drove it 180 miles round trip, I think 12's with some tuning.
 

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if stock lo compression watch the cam duration. ( keep it low )
..A good tune,converter and a bit of gear and it will surprise most.
 
isn't a 73-340
external balanced?
if you are swapping out the 318
hate to see you finish the project
then car has the shakes>vibration
 
isn't a 73-340
external balanced?
if you are swapping out the 318
hate to see you finish the project
then car has the shakes>vibration

Yes, it is. Been there, done that. Bought a 73 340 out of a wrecked Challenger back in 80's. Rebuilt it using early pistons and a Racer Brown camshaft and springs. Stock intake and manifolds with a stock TQ carb. It ran real well with a four speed and 3.23's, once I got the vibration problem figured out... :banghead:
 
hi, the 73 340, comp ratio, with pistons @.054 down, 65 cc heads, .039 gasket = 9.23 cr. same specs, with .028 gasket = 9.46 cr. the nhra cr specs are 9.32.
 
isn't a 73-340
external balanced?
if you are swapping out the 318
hate to see you finish the project
then car has the shakes>vibration

73 340 externally balanced b & m 10235 flex plate is all you need. Works on 727 or 904, may have to grind on the starter for the 904 or use newer starter out of a magnum 5.9, 5.2 or 3.9. Then any neutral balance converter will work.
 

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mopar rated the 72-3 340 at 8.5:1, cuz stock the pistons are down about .080" and chambers are about 69 cc. use the 340 heads and thermoquad and a modern, slightly hotter version of the 340 cam like a comp 20-309-4 - 222*/226* .464"/.464" 110* . and check crank - cast = external balance, forged = internal
 
I recently purchased a 73 340 to put into my 1970 Duster as I understand it the 73 340 was detuned from the earlier 340s so I wanted to know since I have a set of 302 heads if I should use those or the 340 heads and should I stay with the stock 340 manifold and Thermo Quad pr use the Edelbrock manifold and carb that is on my 318 also should I change out the cam as well I want to keep it as a driver but was looking to get a little more hp out of it. I would like to have any suggestions on this rebuild.
 

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I Beautiful car ! I put Eddy closed chambered heads on my 73 340 sold my 302 heads for 400$ and love my new heads. Let me know if you ever want to sell your aluminium slot rims I have cash $ :)
 
The rear end is 8 3/4 3.55 which I intend to keep it has a 727 that was gone thru and beefed up so it should handle more hp easily
 
The motor is currently assembled and was running a little over a year ago in a Charger but I hate to put it in without at least taking a look inside my 318 runs well but doesn't have the juice I would like to have I recently drove it from Mt Hood Oregon to Hailey Idaho so it is very solid
 
i could be wrong but i'm thinking a stock '73 340 would be about 8.0:1 with 72 cc heads,and i'd surely go with a
904 if there has been no money spent on the 727.
..i've been wrong before
 
I spent $1800 on rebuilding and beefing up the 727 so that when I did put more HP under the hood it wouldn't be a problem
 
Dont be in too big a hurry to swap out that TC. Pick a cam first. If your down on bucks, leave the 340 cam in there and use the current TC. That will save you enough green to buy a nice set of headers(which I dont see you mentioning as being on the car yet.) I think Rusty nailed it.For your driving requirments,and the current parts list, and a restricted budget, hes on the money.I would even run it with the 3.55s.That 73 will surprise you, especially since youre used to a teener.Give it half a chance to prove itself. Then if/when you discover a deficiency you will know where to spend the money youve saved up.
There is of course lots of other good advice in this thread. I just sense that you are more interested with working with what you got. And theres nothing wrong with that.If you really want to get inside that 340, pop the pan,clean it out, and check the bearing clearances.
I say; run what you brung.
 
Thanks that was my plan to open it up and take a look inside first the guy I bought it from said it ran fin he was just replacing it with a 440. But when its sitting on a pallet it is sort hard to tell. He seemed like a very honest guy but I have been fooled before. I But if I understand you the TC thats in there will work fine with the 340 and not end up with a vibration problem. I can afford to buy another cam if need be but its not like I entend to race it but I do want to put my best foot forward to start with. So if I understand you I will need to match the converter to the cam?
 
Yes and no.
Generally; the cam, the cr, the TC and the rear gears, are more than engaged, but not married. And the cam has the greatest influence.
See, the engine can be built to operate anywhere from idle to around 7000 rpm. With deep pockets a little higher. The thing is, its the cam that more or less controls the operating range.And it has a fairly narrow window in which it likes to operate.So if you select a cam that likes to run at higher rpms, you have to get the rpms up to that rpm, which is easy in neutral. But if its stuck pulling 3500 pounds up to it, its a fair bit slow at it.
So the solution is to figure out how to let the engine get up to its happy zone.
This is done,in an automatic car through the Torque Convertor(TC). By letting it be lazy at lower rpms, it scoots up to the happy place, in a heartbeat or less.And then the car blasts off.
Rear gears, or actually a combination of rear and trans first gear can also play a strong role in blasting off, and need to be synchronized with the TC selection.
To get a sense of this,Imagine your teener with 5.13 rear gears and a stock TC.Imagine hitting the gaspedal with that. The little teener would blast off the line.Next imagine that same teener with 2.76 rear gears.Acceleration off the line and through the lower rpms is kinda mundane.
Next,imagine your stock teener with a 3000 stall TC and the 2.76 gears.When you gas it the rpm would zip up to where the engine has some decent torque, and away the car goes. Then imagine her,still with the 276s but now with a 1000rpm stall TC.The stock teener has good low rpm torque, but this TC would spell S-L-O-W.
Now, finally imagine your teener with a combination of various gears and stalls.
The engine will get your vehicle moving with any gears, and TC,and cam.Its just that when these parts are matched,it does it quicker.
This whole discussion revolves around just one aspect of your motoring experience.
Other things to consider are: do you even care if it takes 2 or 3 seconds longer to get up to highway speed? Are you more concerned about how much it costs to drive a hundred miles? Is it a city car, a highway car, or some combination.If you get your car to attain 100mph in the QT, do you care how long it takes? Will you be the only driver?
There are dozens of such questions that need to be answered on every build.You kinda need to sit down, and list the must-haves, in order of importance, so that sacrifices can be made.
There are always sacrifices, or at least compromises.Thats why I say run what you brung. You already have the parts.Perhaps these parts will suit your driving experience. But if not, you can make a much more informed decision as to what parts to replace, and in what order.
If you cornered me as to just one thing now.It would very clearly be the cam choice.All your other decisions will be affected by it.And judging by the tone of your questions,I would suggest caution.Two sizes too small is way more liveable, on the street, than one size too big.Especially if your tuning skills,and/or time,are limited.
Sincerely, AJ
 
First let me say I am 67 years old a retired farmer pretty fair diesel mechanic , welder, electrician but as to tuning still trying to learn my 318 with the 3.55 gears is slow off the line but works well at higher speeds....but just trying to figure out what would be a good cam choice so that it will idle yet have some good juice in the lower end. I really am not concerned about the best milage but hate to waste fuel, not into racing but enjoy having some hp when you want to romp on it. I have plenty of free time but hate to waste it by doing the same job twice. In my area the speed limit is usually 65-70 most places I drive which was why I used the 3.55 gears. So I really appreciate all the input from all of you not quite sure how to do the thank you on this but THANK YOU ALL FOR THE ADVICE IT IS GREATLY APPRECIATED
 
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