Help! Wiped cam lobes? - Video inside

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Did anyone mention that many, many sbms came with just 3 bolts and the drip tab?
The silent chains need all the help they can get ,but, the double rollers are a different design chain that seems to survive quite well on just the drip-tab.I have no opinion, and I dont recall what I put in my 366.
 
Alright, finally got all these damned valve springs in. Time to put the rest of the valve train back together. Any special tips? From what i've read i need to lube the appropriate parts, make sure the pushrods match the rockers and make sure everything is torqued properly. funny thing though, one of the books I have said that springs are tapered and have a top and bottom, the other book says that there are different springs for exhaust and intake valves. The guy at comp cams say'd he'd never heard of that so I just plunked them in.

Not sure why the picture of the lifter valley is in there. That's the old cam shaft. I can't get it to go away. Then again I don't computer well.
 

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Make sure the rocker shafts are oriented right so the oil flows right.

Lube every moving point.

Read up on intake sealing and bolt sealing.

If a bolt ends up missing and you don't know absolutely for a fact that it dropped on the ground or down the exhaust pipe, take it all apart and find it!

The spring variables you mention do exist but are not common, and it does not look to be so for your springs.
 
Do i need to lubricate the mechanical parts of the lifters before install? There's nothing in my books about it or the instructions from summit regarding camshaft install.
 
Nah. Some old heads swear by soaking them in oil overnight but there's no point in it since oil can drain out when the engine sits non-running anyway. It'll clack for a little while but it's of no consequence.

The idea is to build pre-load(the lifter is a small piston inside of the metal outer body) by having oil already in it but if you use adjustable rockers it can throw your adjustment off.

Just make sure to liberally cover the lifter and the cam lobes with lube, which should have came with the cam.

That cam has to be broken in also. That means running it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes and NOT letting it idle. If something goes wrong back off the gas and shut it right down. Once you break the cam in shut it down and change the oil and filter. Don't use synthetic yet.
 
You are not supposed to soak the lifters. You install them then prime the engine. If you fill them up by soaking them first, they can hold the valves open on initial startup. That could have bad results.
 
You are not supposed to soak the lifters. You install them then prime the engine. If you fill them up by soaking them first, they can hold the valves open on initial startup. That could have bad results
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I believe all you have to say RRR. But I have always soaked lifters in oil. Never a problem. And I prime after installing them. MT
 
So the engine is together, everything looks pretty good. I went to start it for the initial break in and i'm having a problem getting juice to the coil. I got gas to the carb, and it wanted to start, but kept stumbling. It looks like i'm not getting 12 volts at the coil. my indicator light shines brightly when I know it has 12 volts going through it, but is notably dimmer when touched to the coil. I'm not sure how to go about tracking this down. Its had spark related problems before, first it was the pickup coil, and then I thought that it was the wiring harness getting covered in coolant after a leak. (It was fine after it dried out)

Any suggestions? I don't want to risk messing up the cam trying to start it over and over.
 
It was the battery. Pulled the one out of my DD and it started right up! runs a little rich and the timings not perfect but I think we got it broken in at least. I'll throw up a victory video when everythings tip top.

Thanks for all the help everyone! Couldn't have done it without the moral and technical support! This forum Rocks!
 
Hey so pretty much done here I think. I've got it mostly timed I think. The oil light flickers on and off though, and sometimes its just on. Also sometimes its just off. It didn't do this before...

Is this a sign that there's an oil pressure problem? Or could it just be a crappy old sensor?
 
perko said:
Hey so pretty much done here I think. I've got it mostly timed I think. The oil light flickers on and off though, and sometimes its just on. Also sometimes its just off. It didn't do this before...

Is this a sign that there's an oil pressure problem? Or could it just be a crappy old sensor?
Click to expand...

Don't take a chance. Install a mechanical oil gauge and see what you have!
 
Very possibly the wire was knocked off the sender during all of the work. When it touches and grounds to anything it turns the light on. Good work!
 
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