does anyone know if they make plugs for the a/c ports coming out of the firewall. i was just going to make my own out of a couple of nuts with some metal welded on the end and painted black. this would plug the holes off and still be removable for the future if i ever put a/c back on the car. but i thought maybe someoone has plugged these before and knows a better way.
Henry's 70 Dart Swinger
- Thread starter cli55er
- Start date
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txstang84
Well-Known Member
Keep in mind, if you decide to swap to a voltmeter, they are wired into the harness differently than an ammeter-ammeters are wired in series with the positive side of a circuit, voltmeters take input from both positive and negative; in short, you can't just plug in a voltmeter where the ammeter was. While the new wiring harnesses will cure a batch of ills, you still need to bypass the ammeter circuit, and install a new supplemental charging wire-it relieves a large current load from the wiring going in the cab.
There are plugs available for those fittings, you should only have to go to Lowes or Home Depot to find the right size...if not, I think AN caps would at least suit the purpose of keeping the evap core clean...just determine the correct size.
There are plugs available for those fittings, you should only have to go to Lowes or Home Depot to find the right size...if not, I think AN caps would at least suit the purpose of keeping the evap core clean...just determine the correct size.
understood good buddy.
that was my thoughts.
the new harnesses will help alot for now, then i can try to bypass the ammeter and put a voltmeter in its place and it will look stock using the ammeter gauge plate. but yes wired differently.
that was my thoughts.
the new harnesses will help alot for now, then i can try to bypass the ammeter and put a voltmeter in its place and it will look stock using the ammeter gauge plate. but yes wired differently.
Robj
Well-Known Member
The problem commonly occurs from years of weather and moisture exposure to the terminals on the bulkhead connector. You get corrosion followed by resistance and that adds up to heat.
On my Swinger, I installed a volt meter and bypassed the wiring to the ammeter under the hood with a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay. You should also install a fusable link in-line with that wire.
I had also done this previously on a B-body I recently gave to my son. The underdash wiring cooked when the ammeter wire melted and shorted at the bulkhead connector and overheated the entire length of it. I had to rewire the underdash. We have a donor car for that B-body with the same problem which is likely why it was retired. Photos below.
If you really want to keep the factory ammeter functioning then you need to bypass the bulkhead connector with the ammeter wires ( and increasing the gauge) and run them directly through the firewall in their own dedicated grommets and then up to the ammeter. Early 70's Chrysler fleet vehicles had this setup due to the increased load demands on the wiring harness. If you look at wiring diagrams in B-body factory manuals, you will see how this is wired with a note indicating "Fleet" or "Heavy Duty".
View attachment wire clump.jpg
View attachment melt detail.jpg
View attachment fused.jpg
On my Swinger, I installed a volt meter and bypassed the wiring to the ammeter under the hood with a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay. You should also install a fusable link in-line with that wire.
I had also done this previously on a B-body I recently gave to my son. The underdash wiring cooked when the ammeter wire melted and shorted at the bulkhead connector and overheated the entire length of it. I had to rewire the underdash. We have a donor car for that B-body with the same problem which is likely why it was retired. Photos below.
If you really want to keep the factory ammeter functioning then you need to bypass the bulkhead connector with the ammeter wires ( and increasing the gauge) and run them directly through the firewall in their own dedicated grommets and then up to the ammeter. Early 70's Chrysler fleet vehicles had this setup due to the increased load demands on the wiring harness. If you look at wiring diagrams in B-body factory manuals, you will see how this is wired with a note indicating "Fleet" or "Heavy Duty".
View attachment wire clump.jpg
View attachment melt detail.jpg
View attachment fused.jpg
thanks for the information! i'm still mulling over what i'm going to do.
come time find out from researching it. this car was not a factory a/c car. someone added it.
the firewall is a non a/c firewall.
the evap in/out is just loosy goose and silicone is on it to hold it in place. someone just cut the firewall so the evap lines would go through.
someone did this before we ever owned it. it had 19 years of history before we got it.
the heater a/c control bezel used to be a heater only and someone just cut it out so the a/c controls would fit.
its a bit of a hodge podge to make it all work. its gonna take some time to figure it all out behind the dash.
ah well. its fun to learn and find out things.
come time find out from researching it. this car was not a factory a/c car. someone added it.
the firewall is a non a/c firewall.
the evap in/out is just loosy goose and silicone is on it to hold it in place. someone just cut the firewall so the evap lines would go through.
someone did this before we ever owned it. it had 19 years of history before we got it.
the heater a/c control bezel used to be a heater only and someone just cut it out so the a/c controls would fit.
its a bit of a hodge podge to make it all work. its gonna take some time to figure it all out behind the dash.
ah well. its fun to learn and find out things.
found this while googling. it appeals to my visual side.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
so I bought a mopar performance air cleaner and then bought a K&N 1530 filter.
well......its not perfect....the K&N filter is 12.5 OD. the mopar performance air cleaner calls for a 12.75 OD filter.
yippee.....
a call to K&N tomorrow to find out what can be done. they don't list a filter at 12.75...only 12.50 and 13.00. sux.
well......its not perfect....the K&N filter is 12.5 OD. the mopar performance air cleaner calls for a 12.75 OD filter.
yippee.....
a call to K&N tomorrow to find out what can be done. they don't list a filter at 12.75...only 12.50 and 13.00. sux.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure I read that page once or twice...but after I modded my wiring. In either case, I'm happy with the the modification and I don't have to worry about cooking my dash harness or bulkhead connector again.
Robj
Well-Known Member
Mine had an aftermarket AC installed at the dealer. It had been hacked on and didn't work. I pulled it all out and it's nice to be able to work on things with some room. They had the AC hoses on mine entering the firewall on an angled up panel between the master cylinder and the wiper motor. Water ran down the firewall and right into the slightly upfacing holes. I found plugs at Ace Hardware that fit and sealed them with a dash of clear silicone around the inner lip. The drain holes are in the trans hump up under the dash. Two of them. I sealed them with shortened rubber stoppers from Ace with a little weather seal cement to hold them snug. The carpet covers them up and you can't see the holes in the carpet.
When you work on that dash I really recommend taking the seats out and laying thick foam down. You'll be so comfortable that you might even take a nap. The underside of the dash is easy to work on with the underdash AC unit gone. Also take out the glovebox and the instrument cluster and you can really clean things up under there and fix all your wiring woes. I took that time to replace my wiper shaft to cowl seals and reattached the underdash jute. I pulled the heater box and cleaned out 42 years of leaves and pine needles and bug remains. I added instruments in the dash and a stereo. It's my daily driver so I wanted it functional. I also painted the dash at that time to freshen it up. There had been only a little messing with the wires because an old lady owned it for most of it's life but it gave me a chance to clean things up and reattach wiring to retainers and such. Took me about a month after work and weekends but it was worth it.
If you pick up the factory manual on CD it will really help. Print out the pages you need and toss them if they get greasy. The wiring diagrams are very helpful and it's fun to learn the wiring. It's like a puzzle for the mind to track, trace and correct the wiring.
When you work on that dash I really recommend taking the seats out and laying thick foam down. You'll be so comfortable that you might even take a nap. The underside of the dash is easy to work on with the underdash AC unit gone. Also take out the glovebox and the instrument cluster and you can really clean things up under there and fix all your wiring woes. I took that time to replace my wiper shaft to cowl seals and reattached the underdash jute. I pulled the heater box and cleaned out 42 years of leaves and pine needles and bug remains. I added instruments in the dash and a stereo. It's my daily driver so I wanted it functional. I also painted the dash at that time to freshen it up. There had been only a little messing with the wires because an old lady owned it for most of it's life but it gave me a chance to clean things up and reattach wiring to retainers and such. Took me about a month after work and weekends but it was worth it.
If you pick up the factory manual on CD it will really help. Print out the pages you need and toss them if they get greasy. The wiring diagrams are very helpful and it's fun to learn the wiring. It's like a puzzle for the mind to track, trace and correct the wiring.
I got the factory manual from another mopar website for free in pdf format, I saw them on ebay...but why pay when its free.
I ordered a new engine/lighting wiring harness from yearone today. too advantage of the 20% code.
I got the old master cylinder off and test fitted the new one. its much larger then the old one, but the mount is the same. I like that it is bigger and holds more fluid. it did not come with a connecting shaft and I tried as hard as I could to get the factory one off the old MC. it didn't work...so I smashed the aluminum cylinder it was attached to in order to get it off. the cylinder was corroded and I would never have used it again anyways. the old shaft fits the new MC perfectly.
I took some carb cleaner to the front of the block to get all the grease and old paint off, then I installed the new .250 double roller timing gear/chain set. its a really nice set by S.A. Gear. part number 78103, fyi. the original was a Cloyes s358T, on the top gear anyways. i'd say the new one is far superior.
and since the K&N air filter didn't fit right with the mopar performance air cleaner, I went to other companies. I found a oiled cotton high flow filter just like the K&N, but made by AFE. the size is 2.76 high x 12.80 OD. this will be a perfect fit for the mopar performance air cleaner, which needs 12.75 OD and had room to spare at just alittle over that to the lip on the upper and lower pan pieces.
I also got a crap ton of parts in again today. including the hemi orange engine paint and the pulleys from BPE. those pulleys are freaking awesome on the quality end!!
thanks for following and the input from everyone that pushes the reply button.
Henry.
I ordered a new engine/lighting wiring harness from yearone today. too advantage of the 20% code.
I got the old master cylinder off and test fitted the new one. its much larger then the old one, but the mount is the same. I like that it is bigger and holds more fluid. it did not come with a connecting shaft and I tried as hard as I could to get the factory one off the old MC. it didn't work...so I smashed the aluminum cylinder it was attached to in order to get it off. the cylinder was corroded and I would never have used it again anyways. the old shaft fits the new MC perfectly.
I took some carb cleaner to the front of the block to get all the grease and old paint off, then I installed the new .250 double roller timing gear/chain set. its a really nice set by S.A. Gear. part number 78103, fyi. the original was a Cloyes s358T, on the top gear anyways. i'd say the new one is far superior.
and since the K&N air filter didn't fit right with the mopar performance air cleaner, I went to other companies. I found a oiled cotton high flow filter just like the K&N, but made by AFE. the size is 2.76 high x 12.80 OD. this will be a perfect fit for the mopar performance air cleaner, which needs 12.75 OD and had room to spare at just alittle over that to the lip on the upper and lower pan pieces.
I also got a crap ton of parts in again today. including the hemi orange engine paint and the pulleys from BPE. those pulleys are freaking awesome on the quality end!!
thanks for following and the input from everyone that pushes the reply button.
Henry.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
I'm just happy to read that others can play with their toys...keep posting pictures and we'll keep reading.
oh boy did I have fun tonight. did the best I could to paint the motor with it still in the car. that wasn't easy, but it will be decent I think. I cleaned it all up with brake parts cleaner, let it dry really good and then put several coats of Hemi orange on it. the spark plug galley area was the hardest part to do, especially with the headers on, but I got it.
the motor was painted blue at one point, so I was worried it might be a 318 or later 340. it was a correct 70 340 block. numbers at the front confirmed. whew.
I've been thinking about an aluminum intake....just not the overpriced elderbrock. they have some on ebay for 150 that are look a likes. but i'm worried a bit about missing the heat riser like the original one has.
I'll search the forum, but has anyone ran one of these? I'd be using the stock carter AVS. according to edelbrock, their normal intake is 4.63 tall....and the rpm air gap like the one linked here to ebay is 5.35 tall. so i'm a bit worried about hood clearance. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121238480158?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
the motor was painted blue at one point, so I was worried it might be a 318 or later 340. it was a correct 70 340 block. numbers at the front confirmed. whew.
I've been thinking about an aluminum intake....just not the overpriced elderbrock. they have some on ebay for 150 that are look a likes. but i'm worried a bit about missing the heat riser like the original one has.
I'll search the forum, but has anyone ran one of these? I'd be using the stock carter AVS. according to edelbrock, their normal intake is 4.63 tall....and the rpm air gap like the one linked here to ebay is 5.35 tall. so i'm a bit worried about hood clearance. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121238480158?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Cool deal-good to see you workin it! FWIW, the Edelbrock intake is expensive because it's worth it-IMO. On the other hand, the Professional Products one does seem to work for most people here in the last couple years...when they first debuted, there were lots of complaints about poor machining and mismatching on the port entries. I believe Abodybomber is selling one in the classifieds; Tim is a good guy, if it's still available, give him a shout.
I have the Edelbrock on my Magnum 5.2 and I'm happy with it. You could also go with the Weiand Stealth-pretty much everyone that has used them is happy with them for street going apps...and I'm pretty sure it's cheaper.
I have the Edelbrock on my Magnum 5.2 and I'm happy with it. You could also go with the Weiand Stealth-pretty much everyone that has used them is happy with them for street going apps...and I'm pretty sure it's cheaper.
Robj
Well-Known Member
Ah! The joys of a young back that can bend over a grill and replace a timing chain while still in the car...I fondly remember those days!
KENTON
Well-Known Member
Nice project, can't wait to see more.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm getting to the point where I have to be very calculating with that stuff...
I visited a friend in Anderson just a couple months ago-pretty cool area. I saw a couple old Fairlanes when I was there...too bad I couldn't have seen your car...
Robj
Well-Known Member
Whoa...you know where Anderson is?!?!:salute:
Robj
Well-Known Member
Gotta be Anderson, CA just south of Redding. Shasta County is Ford/Chevy country. Everybody mistakes my Dart as a mid-60's Chevelle and it's even been called a Falcon once. You tell them it's a Dodge Dart Swinger and they look at you puzzled..."What's a Swinger???"
Looking for more photos of this build Cli! Fun stuff!
Looking for more photos of this build Cli! Fun stuff!
yeah more pics will be coming. today I found out that I have 10 inch rear drums. I went by summit racing website that said rear was 9 inch.
they do have a 10 inch set, but it says for fronts. I bet they will fit on the rears though. same bolt and same 10x2. if not...oh well. i'll return them and try to find someone to turn the original Chrysler 10 inchers that have been on there since 1970, if they are turnable. blugh....
they do have a 10 inch set, but it says for fronts. I bet they will fit on the rears though. same bolt and same 10x2. if not...oh well. i'll return them and try to find someone to turn the original Chrysler 10 inchers that have been on there since 1970, if they are turnable. blugh....
Robj
Well-Known Member
8 3/4 rear end?
yes 8 3/4. I found 10 inchers on summit racing. we shall see if they fit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BEN-PDR0174
txstang84
Well-Known Member
That links says they're for the front-if I'm not mistaken, you probably have the 10x1 3/4" rear drums-probably the "bell" type. I've had some problems finding replacements as well. I'm pretty sure one of the members has posted a part number for them but I don't have it. I'll probably upgrade to rear discs eventually.
Yes Sir-surely was. My friend lives near one of the little Shasta outlets...I need to get with him about the name of that burrito place...frickin amazing.
Yes Sir-surely was. My friend lives near one of the little Shasta outlets...I need to get with him about the name of that burrito place...frickin amazing.
yes I do, but I'm pretty sure and hoping that they will fit on the rear and work just fine. if not, here's to hoping the bell drums can be turned.
I just noticed on this intake manifold that I bought that the water neck thermostat says to be for 79 and up smaller version. wtf mopar...why cant they make a f-ing aluminum manifold with the atmospheric t-stat recess for the choke, that uses the full early style water neck and thermostat. it also looks like the waterpump bypass hose nipple screws in at a different location on this manifold too. will the stock bypass hose even stretch to move to that location.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4876335AB/10002/-1
i'm guessing since its smaller on the 79 and up that the radiator hose on my car wont work right either??
hell idk.
edit: I think I figured out my answers. 84 ramcharger hose neck diameter is 1.5"...same as the hose on my 70. the diameter of the tstat is 2" vs 2.5".....so I just need a tstat and housing from something like a 84 ram charger....81 cordoba....etc etc.
easily obtainable from the local autozone or oreilly auto.
back to normal business.
I just noticed on this intake manifold that I bought that the water neck thermostat says to be for 79 and up smaller version. wtf mopar...why cant they make a f-ing aluminum manifold with the atmospheric t-stat recess for the choke, that uses the full early style water neck and thermostat. it also looks like the waterpump bypass hose nipple screws in at a different location on this manifold too. will the stock bypass hose even stretch to move to that location.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4876335AB/10002/-1
i'm guessing since its smaller on the 79 and up that the radiator hose on my car wont work right either??
hell idk.
edit: I think I figured out my answers. 84 ramcharger hose neck diameter is 1.5"...same as the hose on my 70. the diameter of the tstat is 2" vs 2.5".....so I just need a tstat and housing from something like a 84 ram charger....81 cordoba....etc etc.
easily obtainable from the local autozone or oreilly auto.
back to normal business.
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