Henry's 70 Dart Swinger
- Thread starter cli55er
- Start date
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txstang84
Well-Known Member
Sounds good to me! Looks pretty nice too!
txstang84
Well-Known Member
I couldn't access that parts page from work, but I'd recommend either a banjo fitting that accepts a rubber line, or a formed hardline for your carb like one of these...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8126
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8089
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8131
...there are more like that with varying connections, but just to give you an idea. If you go on Summit and just look up any Edelbrock carb, then look up the suggested parts, it'll have a list of stuff you can use.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8126
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8089
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8131
...there are more like that with varying connections, but just to give you an idea. If you go on Summit and just look up any Edelbrock carb, then look up the suggested parts, it'll have a list of stuff you can use.
i already have the factory correct hard lines that accept the rubber hosed filter canister.
i just wanted to make sure i got the right fitting on the inlet of the carb to accept the 5/16 male flare on the hard line that goes to the carb. i have the lines in the link below....stock lines.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161015257897?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
i just wanted to make sure i got the right fitting on the inlet of the carb to accept the 5/16 male flare on the hard line that goes to the carb. i have the lines in the link below....stock lines.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161015257897?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
front rotors, bearings, races, etc....all on. driver's caliper back on....need to put in pads.
alternator finished and mounted. new single groove pulley pressed on. HB on with pulley mounted. radiator hoses on. thermostat and housing on. belt on.
alternator finished and mounted. new single groove pulley pressed on. HB on with pulley mounted. radiator hoses on. thermostat and housing on. belt on.
Robj
Well-Known Member
Looking great!
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Mmm wiring-tons of fun-not! Looks like you have a new underhood harness there-looks like the one I ordered from YearOne about a year ago. Looking good though!
Tbone416
Well-Known Member
Hay man look great were did you get your front rotors at I need one
the dash harness is new as well, both came from year one. i just modified the underhood harness to match the MAD method. didn't need to run any new wires other then the extended ones through the bulkhead connector. the wire from the alternator was a 12 gauge then into a 10 gauge. this should be plenty for the 55amp alternator that is on there. i just took the black and red wire there were originally going from the engine bay to the dash and snipped them and then wired them together to make the connection for the alternator to the battery post on the relay.
i'm going to run the headlights as is for now and if i notice any dimming or flickering i'll order a headlight harness to fix that problem.
the rotors i got from summit racing, bendix brand.
i'm going to run the headlights as is for now and if i notice any dimming or flickering i'll order a headlight harness to fix that problem.
the rotors i got from summit racing, bendix brand.
while the lines from inlinetube are nice, they do require some tweaking, but i'm wondering how much of that is the car being a bit out of wack. it was wrecked pretty hard in the front when i was about 10-12.....plowed right into a concrete divider. some guy in a truck ran my dad off the road...i was in the back...messed my face up something fierce...plowed it right into the back of the front headrest. not pretty.
so i can't really say if the inline tube is off a bit or the car...probably the car.
i can tell you that the lines that go to the master cylinder are completely wrong and i plan to call inline about that today. there is no way those are going to even be massaged into place.
put in some new halogen sylvania headlights, i figured with the modifications to the harness and the fact that they are new harnesses...it should be fine...if not i'll get a relayed headlight harness.
and lets not kid ourselves...getting that firewall hard line in with the motor in....total PITA!!
so i can't really say if the inline tube is off a bit or the car...probably the car.
i can tell you that the lines that go to the master cylinder are completely wrong and i plan to call inline about that today. there is no way those are going to even be massaged into place.
put in some new halogen sylvania headlights, i figured with the modifications to the harness and the fact that they are new harnesses...it should be fine...if not i'll get a relayed headlight harness.
and lets not kid ourselves...getting that firewall hard line in with the motor in....total PITA!!
Great build thread cli55er, a great read and looks like you are doing all the right things first :cheers:
Thank you for a great thread many will enjoy and learn from :coffee2:
Great Job :color: that Swinger looks and sound super 8)
Thank you for a great thread many will enjoy and learn from :coffee2:
Great Job :color: that Swinger looks and sound super 8)
thanks alot i appreciate it!
Inline tube is sending me the correct master cylinder lines free of charge. i also noticed that they sent me a two piece front to rear line.....they are sending me the one piece free as well. so far i'm really diggin them as a company.
got the left side axle back in, new seals, grease, etc. its kinda odd...i can turn the axle freely, but then it gets hard to turn for a bit...then frees up again and turns smoothly. hard to explain, but i'm hoping/guessing its because i need to readjust the freeplay again....and that is done on the right side, which i haven't taken apart yet. the drum is off of the right side, so its not the pads grabbing.
Inline tube is sending me the correct master cylinder lines free of charge. i also noticed that they sent me a two piece front to rear line.....they are sending me the one piece free as well. so far i'm really diggin them as a company.
got the left side axle back in, new seals, grease, etc. its kinda odd...i can turn the axle freely, but then it gets hard to turn for a bit...then frees up again and turns smoothly. hard to explain, but i'm hoping/guessing its because i need to readjust the freeplay again....and that is done on the right side, which i haven't taken apart yet. the drum is off of the right side, so its not the pads grabbing.
got the right side axle out and the new seal in. all the rear brake lines are done as well.
had to buy an endplay adjuster lock...it was missing on this car. how it was keeping the endplay, i have no idea.
also that snag i was feeling when rotating the axle on the left went away the minute i loosened the right side....my theory was right...endplay was off.
had to buy an endplay adjuster lock...it was missing on this car. how it was keeping the endplay, i have no idea.
also that snag i was feeling when rotating the axle on the left went away the minute i loosened the right side....my theory was right...endplay was off.
rear brakes are done. started to do the leaf spring bushings. PITA!!!!! that crap hasn't been off the car since the assembly line. the bushings had the original part numbers on them.
had to buy new shackles...they were eaten up, dont know how they hadn't broken off yet. the front mounts are "OKAY" but i'm not sold on those repos from AR Engineering that have the two holes in them. one for lowering the car. i'd really rather just have a factory repoduction, but i can't find them anywhere.
poly bushings going in, but i had to Chisel out the front pivot bushing, which required dropping the leaf spring to get a good angle with the chisel. it took me an hour of working at it to get it to come out and it looked like garbled metal when i was done. little bastard! 40 years of being in the same place makes you one stubborn little prick.
started to rebuild the original AVS carb.....it was really really bad....worse then i thought. so i just bought a 650 thunder eddy and bam done. cost less then restoration of the original. should have done that to begin with. oh well.
had to buy new shackles...they were eaten up, dont know how they hadn't broken off yet. the front mounts are "OKAY" but i'm not sold on those repos from AR Engineering that have the two holes in them. one for lowering the car. i'd really rather just have a factory repoduction, but i can't find them anywhere.
poly bushings going in, but i had to Chisel out the front pivot bushing, which required dropping the leaf spring to get a good angle with the chisel. it took me an hour of working at it to get it to come out and it looked like garbled metal when i was done. little bastard! 40 years of being in the same place makes you one stubborn little prick.
started to rebuild the original AVS carb.....it was really really bad....worse then i thought. so i just bought a 650 thunder eddy and bam done. cost less then restoration of the original. should have done that to begin with. oh well.
anyone looking for that stainless master cylinder heat shield and having trouble finding it because mopar D/Ced it....i found this guy who makes them and sells them for a good price, and stainless.
i have not recieved it yet, i just ordered it, so i can't speak to the product, but its the only one i can find ANYWHERE on the net! period! some places on the net show it in stock and orderable, but when you place your order, it gets cxed because they are out of stock and never updated the website. you can try your luck, but i called this guy and he says he has them in stock. they are his own design, not the mopar ones.
http://www.accurateltd.com/Master-Cylinder-Heat-Shield_p_164.html#
i have not recieved it yet, i just ordered it, so i can't speak to the product, but its the only one i can find ANYWHERE on the net! period! some places on the net show it in stock and orderable, but when you place your order, it gets cxed because they are out of stock and never updated the website. you can try your luck, but i called this guy and he says he has them in stock. they are his own design, not the mopar ones.
http://www.accurateltd.com/Master-Cylinder-Heat-Shield_p_164.html#
finished putting the dash back together. put in LED bulbs, too keep things cooler and brighter. i dont realy like the color clashing, but its alot brighter and easier to see at night. if you had seen before...you would know what i mean.
i tested the polarity of all the LED bulbs before i put them in, but for some reason the led for teh HI Beam indicator only glowed dim for a few times and then nothing. course the dash is in now and i can't get my gorrilla hands back there to that bulb. i'm not pulling this thing for one stupid bulb...so its just gonna be out. the important ones light up. besides...i can tell when the brights are on, i dont need an indicator. If i can't tell...people will let me know. also with the a/c button lights...its kinda like a red/white/blue theme.....'merica! (brought to you by chinese bulbs, dammit)
got the rearend all put back together after doing the bushings. i'm half way preped to drop the trans for the flexplate replacement. had to cut the exhaust to get it out, pretty sure i'm getting new exhaust done. the old mufflers are rotting.
also since the bezel was cut to fit the A/C controls, i cut out a bezel replacement to stuff behind the controls and blow out about 98% of the light that was blasting in my face through the big hole. now its jsut a little bit leaking out and now i can read the buttons.
in the pic of the back of the cluster. i took off the condenser...it isn't needed with the solid state limiter and i dont have a radio. the station i listen too is always tuned in....the exhaust. i then ran a positive wire from the back of the tach to the second male terminal on the limiter.
the only two gauges i dont know if they work....the temp and oil. the fuel works. the amp gauge is bent to "pretend" it works. basically it always shows charging. i'll install a volt meter.
i've got a slow leak of brake fluid from one of the driver's side caliper hard lines. gonna have to take it off and check it...i have it as tight as i can comfortably go on it. its just seeping out. no bueno. 1 connection out of several is good odds though. and it only seeps when i push the pedal to bleed, so very minor. if its the line i'll just bend a new one on my own.
while the motor is still not quite finished...its sure has come a long way since the before picture. dizzy is still out, and i need to wire the pos for the choke. but, damn that is a nice after result, if i do say so myself!
i tested the polarity of all the LED bulbs before i put them in, but for some reason the led for teh HI Beam indicator only glowed dim for a few times and then nothing. course the dash is in now and i can't get my gorrilla hands back there to that bulb. i'm not pulling this thing for one stupid bulb...so its just gonna be out. the important ones light up. besides...i can tell when the brights are on, i dont need an indicator. If i can't tell...people will let me know. also with the a/c button lights...its kinda like a red/white/blue theme.....'merica! (brought to you by chinese bulbs, dammit)
got the rearend all put back together after doing the bushings. i'm half way preped to drop the trans for the flexplate replacement. had to cut the exhaust to get it out, pretty sure i'm getting new exhaust done. the old mufflers are rotting.
also since the bezel was cut to fit the A/C controls, i cut out a bezel replacement to stuff behind the controls and blow out about 98% of the light that was blasting in my face through the big hole. now its jsut a little bit leaking out and now i can read the buttons.
in the pic of the back of the cluster. i took off the condenser...it isn't needed with the solid state limiter and i dont have a radio. the station i listen too is always tuned in....the exhaust. i then ran a positive wire from the back of the tach to the second male terminal on the limiter.
the only two gauges i dont know if they work....the temp and oil. the fuel works. the amp gauge is bent to "pretend" it works. basically it always shows charging. i'll install a volt meter.
i've got a slow leak of brake fluid from one of the driver's side caliper hard lines. gonna have to take it off and check it...i have it as tight as i can comfortably go on it. its just seeping out. no bueno. 1 connection out of several is good odds though. and it only seeps when i push the pedal to bleed, so very minor. if its the line i'll just bend a new one on my own.
while the motor is still not quite finished...its sure has come a long way since the before picture. dizzy is still out, and i need to wire the pos for the choke. but, damn that is a nice after result, if i do say so myself!
txstang84
Well-Known Member
I'm diggin man-you aren't wrong-far sight from what you started with, and just keeps getting better.
incase someone notices....i had the calipers backwards. lt to rt and rt to lt. only figured it out after googling why the pedal kept going to the floor after bleeding. the bleed nipples on the front calipers were facing down and not letting the air out. flipped sides and wholla, fixed. pedal good to go. (shakes head at self)
stuck the dizzy in just to see how i was going to run the wires and to make sure nothing touched the headers, i'm going to have to make sure the driver's front two wires are more secure then they are. (ignore the location of the wires on the dizzy...i just stuck them in in no particular order...that will be fixed when i put it in permanently) also put in the pertronix unit.
Heat sheild came in for the master cylinder as well. very well made piece, solid!
had to get a new oil pan...the old one was all kindsa wacked out. bolt holes were sinched up too tight and thus warped the gasket surface. if i had tried to use it, it would have leaked for sure. it was on there when my dad got the car and he had no reason to take it off.
also got a new vacuum advance. the old one would not hold a vacuum hold....so i took it apart to try to put new rubber in it, but it was not flat rubber like on my Packard (which i fixed myself), so i had to get a new one. can you see why it would not hold a vacuum? lol!
painted all the linkage black.
will be dropping the car off this saturday for new exhaust with flowmaster super 44 mufflers and an H pipe.
stuck the dizzy in just to see how i was going to run the wires and to make sure nothing touched the headers, i'm going to have to make sure the driver's front two wires are more secure then they are. (ignore the location of the wires on the dizzy...i just stuck them in in no particular order...that will be fixed when i put it in permanently) also put in the pertronix unit.
Heat sheild came in for the master cylinder as well. very well made piece, solid!
had to get a new oil pan...the old one was all kindsa wacked out. bolt holes were sinched up too tight and thus warped the gasket surface. if i had tried to use it, it would have leaked for sure. it was on there when my dad got the car and he had no reason to take it off.
also got a new vacuum advance. the old one would not hold a vacuum hold....so i took it apart to try to put new rubber in it, but it was not flat rubber like on my Packard (which i fixed myself), so i had to get a new one. can you see why it would not hold a vacuum? lol!
painted all the linkage black.
will be dropping the car off this saturday for new exhaust with flowmaster super 44 mufflers and an H pipe.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Just lived this one out while I was visiting my brother in Washington a couple weeks ago. I know exactly how you feel...as soon as we swapped them to their correct positions, replaced the crush washers, and refilled the reservoir, we got a pedal almost immediately.
small world huh. lol!
well she started tonight! but she does not like to run at 5 degree timing like the book says. it seems to like 10 degrees right now. but we have not messed with the carb settings or taken into account for the comp cam yet. plus the vacuum advance hole was plugged because the old one is crap. the new one should be her tomorrow and we can put that on the dizzy and hook it up. that should help a bit.
hopefully we can get this timing thing worked out.
at first we heard some ticking noise...but it ended up being the inspection plate rubbing on the bolts for the flexplate. it stopped after a bit...rubbed lite groove in the inspection plate i'm sure. no biggie. we had plenty of oil pressure. 65psi. so it wasn't too concerning.
all that is left is hooking up the trans linkage, the power steering, and steering linkage.
one thing i'm not sure of....the brake warning light stayed on when the car was running...its plugged in correctly...I hope it goes away after I start driving it. if I unplug the cable from the distribution block the light goes out. brakes feel fine tough on the pedal. so i'm lost on that one. any ideas??? maybe it is the emergency brake switch....which I checked and the e-brake handle was not on.
well she started tonight! but she does not like to run at 5 degree timing like the book says. it seems to like 10 degrees right now. but we have not messed with the carb settings or taken into account for the comp cam yet. plus the vacuum advance hole was plugged because the old one is crap. the new one should be her tomorrow and we can put that on the dizzy and hook it up. that should help a bit.
hopefully we can get this timing thing worked out.
at first we heard some ticking noise...but it ended up being the inspection plate rubbing on the bolts for the flexplate. it stopped after a bit...rubbed lite groove in the inspection plate i'm sure. no biggie. we had plenty of oil pressure. 65psi. so it wasn't too concerning.
all that is left is hooking up the trans linkage, the power steering, and steering linkage.
one thing i'm not sure of....the brake warning light stayed on when the car was running...its plugged in correctly...I hope it goes away after I start driving it. if I unplug the cable from the distribution block the light goes out. brakes feel fine tough on the pedal. so i'm lost on that one. any ideas??? maybe it is the emergency brake switch....which I checked and the e-brake handle was not on.
the brake warning light ended up being a bad distribution block. the valve is stuck to one direction and i cannot get it to go back. took it off and looked and even tried to move it with a small screwdriver. nope. its junk. i'll be calling the vender soon.
i took it off and my dad put on the old one after i cleaned it really good. light went out...valve good...brakes good.
put the power steering on....pulley does not line up. no idea why. i'll have to make some spacer for the pump to push it forward about 1/2 an inch. which i should do soon because turning the wheel without PS....is a pita when sitting still.
the car is also not leanining to the dirver's side. must be the new shocks....the torsion bar needs to be turn up on that side to level her back out.
anyone know the stock ride height so i can measure?
it has an exhaust leak in the front. we had to use old exhaust flange gaskets...that will be remedied with the new exhaust coming.
the timing is set to about 20 degrees, but we cant get the carb to bring the idle in neutrual down past 1500 for the in drive idle to be okay. if we go below that in neutral and then put it in drive it tries to die and bucks.
i think i need to give it more advance on the timing. maybe like 25 or so. the edelbrock book says if you have a cam it may need more timing. so no telling. just gonna take some fiddling.
i took it off and my dad put on the old one after i cleaned it really good. light went out...valve good...brakes good.
put the power steering on....pulley does not line up. no idea why. i'll have to make some spacer for the pump to push it forward about 1/2 an inch. which i should do soon because turning the wheel without PS....is a pita when sitting still.
the car is also not leanining to the dirver's side. must be the new shocks....the torsion bar needs to be turn up on that side to level her back out.
anyone know the stock ride height so i can measure?
it has an exhaust leak in the front. we had to use old exhaust flange gaskets...that will be remedied with the new exhaust coming.
the timing is set to about 20 degrees, but we cant get the carb to bring the idle in neutrual down past 1500 for the in drive idle to be okay. if we go below that in neutral and then put it in drive it tries to die and bucks.
i think i need to give it more advance on the timing. maybe like 25 or so. the edelbrock book says if you have a cam it may need more timing. so no telling. just gonna take some fiddling.
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