Henry's 70 Dart Swinger
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Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
What did you use to paint them ?
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Let us know how it holds up.
Ive used Eastwood maniflod paint in the past, with good success.
Its kind of expensive, wouldnt mind finding a cheaper alternative.
Ive used Eastwood maniflod paint in the past, with good success.
Its kind of expensive, wouldnt mind finding a cheaper alternative.
paint didn't hold up. flaking off. I think because I wasn't thorough with my sandblasting. the ones on my Packard I sent to a blaster and they came back very well done and this same paint is on them with no problems.
looks like I get to take them back off and send the out to be blasted first. my blast cabinet isn't quite big enough for me to get a good job done on them apparently.
looks like I get to take them back off and send the out to be blasted first. my blast cabinet isn't quite big enough for me to get a good job done on them apparently.
having problem with the factory 14" 5x4 rallye rims. lost a hub recently and it broke into pieces. also I torqued the lugs too tight like a moron and beveled out the lug holes a bit.
i'm kinda in the mood for steelies with dog dishes. I have the dog dishes from a 69 I had a long time ago. I just need steelies. I have seen some on here that are 14" sbp but are only 4.5" wide......so my question is how wide are the rallye's on my car now? are they 14x7 or are they 14x4.5???
seems hard to find anything in 5x4 pattern.
i'm kinda in the mood for steelies with dog dishes. I have the dog dishes from a 69 I had a long time ago. I just need steelies. I have seen some on here that are 14" sbp but are only 4.5" wide......so my question is how wide are the rallye's on my car now? are they 14x7 or are they 14x4.5???
seems hard to find anything in 5x4 pattern.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Stock 14" Rallyes are 14"×5.5".
If you want steelies,340 cars came with a 14"×5.5" steel wheel.
If you want steelies,340 cars came with a 14"×5.5" steel wheel.
not sure if anyone is going to see this post, but here it goes.
need some thoughts from the ignition gurus.
car was driving fine and then it just started sputtering and dying on me. so I pulled over and couldn't find a single thing wrong. I just filled with gas, so I thought...bad gas or dirt got to the carb.
so I finally got it running again. drove it home. then it wouldn't even start in the garage. me and my dad went through the carb...def not a gas issue....changed coil....not coil....checked points gap....not gap.
finally it came down to it and I said...what of the condenser....it was the condenser...replaced it and it fired right off and we high fived and went to the beer.
drove fine around town, then sat for about 3-4 weeks. got it out today and drove about 30 miles before it started doing the same thing again.
so I replaced the points and the condenser on the side of the road and not having a way to set the gap I got it as close as I could and hobbled home with it running like crap.
got home....changed coil to a known working one. put in new points and condenser correctly since I couldn't on the road. got it running and set timing. the dwell is at 38...a bit high. gonna have to set that gap a bit better.
took the car for a spin...it cruises just fine and accelerates fine. but if you floor it....it falls right on its *** and runs like its missing and etc... just wont do crap. then you get off of it and cruises fine.
so I guess my questions are.
1. is the points gap not being perfect have to do with the falling on its *** when flooring?
2. why the hell do I keep eating through condensers?
the coil is brand new Mallory 58k coil. is that just too much for the condensers and it is frying them? I put back the known working coil, borg warner 55k coil. never had a problem for 20 years from original points and coil. so right now its got the original borg warner coil that's been on there forever and working.....and new points....and new condenser. but it falls on its *** when I floor it. and I'm afraid I'm going to eat another condenser up again.
my dad is coming by again tomorrow to look at it, but I'm just wondering what you guys think about the eating of the condensers. what the hell are we missing here? 20 years same coil/points/condenser and it never ever had any issues.
I do all this nice work to it and the damn thing acts like a little turd.
need some thoughts from the ignition gurus.
car was driving fine and then it just started sputtering and dying on me. so I pulled over and couldn't find a single thing wrong. I just filled with gas, so I thought...bad gas or dirt got to the carb.
so I finally got it running again. drove it home. then it wouldn't even start in the garage. me and my dad went through the carb...def not a gas issue....changed coil....not coil....checked points gap....not gap.
finally it came down to it and I said...what of the condenser....it was the condenser...replaced it and it fired right off and we high fived and went to the beer.
drove fine around town, then sat for about 3-4 weeks. got it out today and drove about 30 miles before it started doing the same thing again.
so I replaced the points and the condenser on the side of the road and not having a way to set the gap I got it as close as I could and hobbled home with it running like crap.
got home....changed coil to a known working one. put in new points and condenser correctly since I couldn't on the road. got it running and set timing. the dwell is at 38...a bit high. gonna have to set that gap a bit better.
took the car for a spin...it cruises just fine and accelerates fine. but if you floor it....it falls right on its *** and runs like its missing and etc... just wont do crap. then you get off of it and cruises fine.
so I guess my questions are.
1. is the points gap not being perfect have to do with the falling on its *** when flooring?
2. why the hell do I keep eating through condensers?
the coil is brand new Mallory 58k coil. is that just too much for the condensers and it is frying them? I put back the known working coil, borg warner 55k coil. never had a problem for 20 years from original points and coil. so right now its got the original borg warner coil that's been on there forever and working.....and new points....and new condenser. but it falls on its *** when I floor it. and I'm afraid I'm going to eat another condenser up again.
my dad is coming by again tomorrow to look at it, but I'm just wondering what you guys think about the eating of the condensers. what the hell are we missing here? 20 years same coil/points/condenser and it never ever had any issues.
I do all this nice work to it and the damn thing acts like a little turd.
nm....I switched over to mopar electronic ignition. screw you points.
also found the fuel pump was leaking out of the outlet point, which was causing it to not keep up at high rpm and stall out the car.
believe it or not, but I bought the parts for the electronic ignition about 15 years ago to replace the POS lean burn on my 1983 cordoba and it got hit before I could install it, so I gave it to my dad and he never installed it on the dart.
took it off the shelf and installed it, wham bam thank you ma'am,works perfectly.
now....quit being a little turd you mango colored beast!
also found the fuel pump was leaking out of the outlet point, which was causing it to not keep up at high rpm and stall out the car.
believe it or not, but I bought the parts for the electronic ignition about 15 years ago to replace the POS lean burn on my 1983 cordoba and it got hit before I could install it, so I gave it to my dad and he never installed it on the dart.
took it off the shelf and installed it, wham bam thank you ma'am,works perfectly.
now....quit being a little turd you mango colored beast!
new electronic ignition is running well. but car was idling for about 10 min after driving it and it started to try to die again. if I revved it, it would cure it. driving on the street seemed fine...but if I floored it and got to the top of 2nd gear it would start to cut out. I'm thinking it is vapor locking. fuel pump is brand new high flow 6.5 psi.
car used to have rubber gas line going to the carb and never had this issue. pump was also different non stock style as well. it now has new stocking looking pump with correct metal line going to metal fuel filter, then up to carb. so I'm thinking maybe its heat soaking and vapor locking....either that or the gas is crap. running 93 octane.
I ordered a new SS fuel line, new gas tank, new sending unit, new tank pad, new filler gasket to tank, new trunk filler seal, etc etc.
dropped the old tank today, which was not the correct tank. it has a vent in the top center which is wrong. it was plugged off.
the old tank looked okay other then some minute sediment in the bottom, but the one thing I noticed is the sending unit did not have a sock on it. maybe I've been sucking up trash and that is what is killing the power. idk.
I would like to order a new filler neck as well, but I can't figure out which one is correct for a 70 swinger 340 with vent-less tank.
this one, which is on the car now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171426119150?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
or this one without the vent.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360938668372?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
seems like the vented one is for early a bodies and not 70, but I'm not sure....since someone put the wrong tank on the car, maybe they changed the filler neck...idk.
thoughts?
car used to have rubber gas line going to the carb and never had this issue. pump was also different non stock style as well. it now has new stocking looking pump with correct metal line going to metal fuel filter, then up to carb. so I'm thinking maybe its heat soaking and vapor locking....either that or the gas is crap. running 93 octane.
I ordered a new SS fuel line, new gas tank, new sending unit, new tank pad, new filler gasket to tank, new trunk filler seal, etc etc.
dropped the old tank today, which was not the correct tank. it has a vent in the top center which is wrong. it was plugged off.
the old tank looked okay other then some minute sediment in the bottom, but the one thing I noticed is the sending unit did not have a sock on it. maybe I've been sucking up trash and that is what is killing the power. idk.
I would like to order a new filler neck as well, but I can't figure out which one is correct for a 70 swinger 340 with vent-less tank.
this one, which is on the car now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171426119150?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
or this one without the vent.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360938668372?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
seems like the vented one is for early a bodies and not 70, but I'm not sure....since someone put the wrong tank on the car, maybe they changed the filler neck...idk.
thoughts?
A big thank you goes out to Moritz Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep in Fort Worth. They let me put the Dart on the showroom floor and surprise my dad with it for Father's Day. another dealer, nameless, was not so nice.
it was fun to see my dad freak out when he saw the car sitting like it would have been new back in 1970 on the dealer showroom floor.
I told him to meet me there because I had a car I wanted his opinion on and that it was on the showroom and they wouldn't let me test drive it and I needed his help with it.
it was fun pulling it in, nice and loud. He got to drive it out of the showroom floor just like as if he bought it new in 1970.
Happy Father's Day to all.
it was fun to see my dad freak out when he saw the car sitting like it would have been new back in 1970 on the dealer showroom floor.
I told him to meet me there because I had a car I wanted his opinion on and that it was on the showroom and they wouldn't let me test drive it and I needed his help with it.
it was fun pulling it in, nice and loud. He got to drive it out of the showroom floor just like as if he bought it new in 1970.
Happy Father's Day to all.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Looks like I missed a few posts--Nice Father's Day present there man, and glad you got your ignition problems figured out. I left the points on my car for close to a year and never had any issues with them, but I rarely was heavy on the gas either.
paulz340dart
Well-Known Member
Tem enjoy every minute with your dad, as my dad passed away 2013, he was my best friend and biggest supporter when it came to my cars. He is missed!!!!!!
i'm back at it on this car. Transmission finally needs to have something done about it. Torque converter never was right for cam/rearend combo. Cam is cran purple shaft with 280 advertised duration. Need a 2800-3000 stall, and it has a 2000 in it. the rear is a 3.23 in a 489 case. going to 3.73. or 3.91 rear gear.
also finally getting around to replacing the rims (you can tell I don't drive this car much).
question on the transmission crossmember and the trans mount. the trans mount seems to be pressed in or held in by a metal lip. basically there is no way in hell the mount is separating from the crossmember easily. I took the nut off the stud at the bottom, but the damn thing will not come out. I do not have a pic right now. seems like it should just be held in by the stud at the bottom, but no there is a lip of metal at the top that is clamping it in as well. the lip of metal is part of the crossmember. I feel like someone may have goofed with this thing sometime in it's past.
also finally getting around to replacing the rims (you can tell I don't drive this car much).
question on the transmission crossmember and the trans mount. the trans mount seems to be pressed in or held in by a metal lip. basically there is no way in hell the mount is separating from the crossmember easily. I took the nut off the stud at the bottom, but the damn thing will not come out. I do not have a pic right now. seems like it should just be held in by the stud at the bottom, but no there is a lip of metal at the top that is clamping it in as well. the lip of metal is part of the crossmember. I feel like someone may have goofed with this thing sometime in it's past.
thanks that was helpful. I just didn't want to damage something.
as for rims, i'm going to run the Wheel Vintiques series 63 5x4 SBP. thinking a 6" wide in the front and 8" in the back....but man those 8" look HUGE. should I go with a 7" in the rear? i'd like a staggered look and more meat in the rear with the gear change. everything is stock on the dart....disc up front and drums on an 8 3/4" rear end.
I think i'm leaning towards the 15x6 in the front with a 215/65/15 and 15x7 in the rear with a 245/60/15
as for rims, i'm going to run the Wheel Vintiques series 63 5x4 SBP. thinking a 6" wide in the front and 8" in the back....but man those 8" look HUGE. should I go with a 7" in the rear? i'd like a staggered look and more meat in the rear with the gear change. everything is stock on the dart....disc up front and drums on an 8 3/4" rear end.
I think i'm leaning towards the 15x6 in the front with a 215/65/15 and 15x7 in the rear with a 245/60/15
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Hit it with a spritz of some WD-40 and let it sit so the WD can work its way between the rubber and the side of the crossmember, then clamp the crossmember in a vice and pry it out as mentioned above!
please go here for a recent question I asked. I really cannot figure out the stupid vibration on this car. its had this vibration ever since my dad bought it in 1989. The only thing left to do is pull the motor and rebuild it.....everything else has been replaced with new.
Engine Vibration at highway rpm/speed
Engine Vibration at highway rpm/speed
Reviving this blog after 3.5 years......things are about to get very, very interesting. Dad is in ill health and we are about to make this car over drivetrain wise. 2 post lift is pending delivery so my Dad can actually work on it, no way he can get on the floor. CHF/Kidney issues/etc. Pending a motorized scooter delivery soon as he has issues walking. My son is also now almost 14 and getting more into this stuff. so it will be a Grandfather/Father/Son project.
Reilly Motorsports front to back w/ new Wilwood discs all around.
EFI 416 stroker w/ TorqStorm SC and open headers
nothing cosmetic except headliner and front seat cover. The originals finally tore.
heater core and underdash A/C plenum will get removed....firewall was hacked up to put in an AC plenum. Car was not factory A/C and someone very crappy like hack the firewall putting it in. I'm going to blank off all the holes in the firewall.
If I have budget left over....the dash will get redone. The Rallye cluster is a mess....I'll make my own. Ultimately this is about making HP, better handling, and better braking. The rest will come another day. I just want to be loud and nasty.
as a refresher....we have owned this car since 1989 and it will be passed to my son....so changing up an original 340 swinger isn't a concern for me. I'll be long gone before someone tries putting it back stock.
hold onto your butts.....
Reilly Motorsports front to back w/ new Wilwood discs all around.
EFI 416 stroker w/ TorqStorm SC and open headers
nothing cosmetic except headliner and front seat cover. The originals finally tore.
heater core and underdash A/C plenum will get removed....firewall was hacked up to put in an AC plenum. Car was not factory A/C and someone very crappy like hack the firewall putting it in. I'm going to blank off all the holes in the firewall.
If I have budget left over....the dash will get redone. The Rallye cluster is a mess....I'll make my own. Ultimately this is about making HP, better handling, and better braking. The rest will come another day. I just want to be loud and nasty.
as a refresher....we have owned this car since 1989 and it will be passed to my son....so changing up an original 340 swinger isn't a concern for me. I'll be long gone before someone tries putting it back stock.
hold onto your butts.....
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is this board dead? or is it just me?
pulled out the entire interior over the last week with my son...he had a great time..didn't realize all of that was going to have to come out just to replace a headliner. I'm also not too hopeful I'll get this headliner in without it looking like crap. lol.
Talked with Bill regarding the new front K frame for about 45 min. I enjoyed that.
Been looking over stoker kits, but i should probably wait till i pull the motor to order that stuff because i don't know if the pistons are standard bore or over.
Maybe this kit? Eagle 20105 SB Chrysler 340 Competition RA 9.1 Mahle Dish Pistons (cnc-motorsports.com)
or this one for 9.6:1 vs 9.1:1.
Eagle 20104 SB Chrysler 340 Competition RA 9.6 Mahle Flat Top Pistons (cnc-motorsports.com)
What brand aluminum heads do you guys prefer?
What main cap kits and studs do you guys prefer?
pulled out the entire interior over the last week with my son...he had a great time..didn't realize all of that was going to have to come out just to replace a headliner. I'm also not too hopeful I'll get this headliner in without it looking like crap. lol.
Talked with Bill regarding the new front K frame for about 45 min. I enjoyed that.
Been looking over stoker kits, but i should probably wait till i pull the motor to order that stuff because i don't know if the pistons are standard bore or over.
Maybe this kit? Eagle 20105 SB Chrysler 340 Competition RA 9.1 Mahle Dish Pistons (cnc-motorsports.com)
or this one for 9.6:1 vs 9.1:1.
Eagle 20104 SB Chrysler 340 Competition RA 9.6 Mahle Flat Top Pistons (cnc-motorsports.com)
What brand aluminum heads do you guys prefer?
What main cap kits and studs do you guys prefer?
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Bill is good people, I would plan on a over bore, but would wait till you get it out and torn down.
Take your time with the headliner and it will work out just fine.
yeah, i hope its standard bore right now so it'll be easier to order the kit as the eagle kits seem to only have .030 over. Not sure if the Eagle is better then any other brand, it just happens to be in the compression ratio region that i need for the supercharger.
I've done the convertible top on my z3 and it turn out pretty decent.
the more parts i take off the interior, the more i want to replace. wasn't supposed to be a cosmetic project, but the interior is pretty simple and repop parts seem to be very easy to find.
I've done the convertible top on my z3 and it turn out pretty decent.
the more parts i take off the interior, the more i want to replace. wasn't supposed to be a cosmetic project, but the interior is pretty simple and repop parts seem to be very easy to find.
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