Robj
Well-Known Member
Burrito Bandito. Best in our area. There's three of them. My wife and I split one sometimes they're so big.
Henry's 70 Dart Swinger
- Thread starter cli55er
- Start date
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Burrito Bandito. Best in our area. There's three of them. My wife and I split one sometimes they're so big.
working more on the brakes. rebuilding the calipers. Autozone said vendor was out of the rebuild kit, so I found them on ebay....cheaper. thanks autozone! for those looking on ebay for Kelsey Hayes for a rebuild kit...don't spend that much....just look up the bendix part number at autozone for a 70 swinger, 66845 etc. I found them for 10 bucks a set on ebay. 17.99 at autozone. this is the dust shield and the seal for each piston.
he asked me..."why don't you just get new calipers" well because they are 150 bucks a piece and the rebuild kit is 20 bucks. dur!
got the calipers completely taken apart and soaking in purple power witches brew (degreaser). I used a blind hole puller, worked great to yank the pistons out. i'll clean them up with some 00 steel wool, just to get the junk off and smooth out the surface, but not scratch too hard.
he asked me..."why don't you just get new calipers" well because they are 150 bucks a piece and the rebuild kit is 20 bucks. dur!
got the calipers completely taken apart and soaking in purple power witches brew (degreaser). I used a blind hole puller, worked great to yank the pistons out. i'll clean them up with some 00 steel wool, just to get the junk off and smooth out the surface, but not scratch too hard.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
:happy1:
see this post for help needed with brake distribution blocks.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970301226#post1970301226
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970301226#post1970301226
the mopar intake came in today. I love the fit and finish of it. the only thing is finding all the plugs for the holes I don't need and the smaller heater hose fitting is bigger on this manifold then the stock.
stock is 1/4" npt x 1/2" hose
mopar performance intake is 3/8npt x 1/2" hose
Oreilly's carries, instock, the correct hose fitting I need. part number 744860 by edelmann. its a brass fitting with 3/8 npt threaded and 1/2 nipple on the other end.
the smallest hole that I wont be using on this manifold is 1/8 npt, so I gotta find a plug for that, which i'm sure oreilly's has.
I also had to get a new water outlet and thermostat. this manifold uses a 79 and up version. so, I bought one for another truck my dad owned that I liked....84 ramcharger....and it fit perfectly in the new manifold.
the brake drums came in today. lots of people said they couldn't find the right 10" rear drums for the small bolt a body 8 3/4 rear end. well summit has them. the bendix brand PDR0174, super good price, but yes made in china. they fit like a glove.
stock is 1/4" npt x 1/2" hose
mopar performance intake is 3/8npt x 1/2" hose
Oreilly's carries, instock, the correct hose fitting I need. part number 744860 by edelmann. its a brass fitting with 3/8 npt threaded and 1/2 nipple on the other end.
the smallest hole that I wont be using on this manifold is 1/8 npt, so I gotta find a plug for that, which i'm sure oreilly's has.
I also had to get a new water outlet and thermostat. this manifold uses a 79 and up version. so, I bought one for another truck my dad owned that I liked....84 ramcharger....and it fit perfectly in the new manifold.
the brake drums came in today. lots of people said they couldn't find the right 10" rear drums for the small bolt a body 8 3/4 rear end. well summit has them. the bendix brand PDR0174, super good price, but yes made in china. they fit like a glove.
03JeepJeep
It's a hoot!
Great looking engine!
thanks a lot! its coming together nicely!
I just noticed I ordered drum front flex lines for the brakes...poop....fail!
they have the correct double female ended flex lines at autozone...i'll just get them there and not bother sending these wrong ones back to summit. not worth paying the shipping. rack this one up for whoops! I may beable to use them as spares for my Packard if I needed to in a pinch.
I just noticed I ordered drum front flex lines for the brakes...poop....fail!
they have the correct double female ended flex lines at autozone...i'll just get them there and not bother sending these wrong ones back to summit. not worth paying the shipping. rack this one up for whoops! I may beable to use them as spares for my Packard if I needed to in a pinch.
ordered the crossover and caliper hard lines for the front brake calipers. didn't know that inline tube made those and the ones on there were just rotted and I couldn't help but break them off to separate the calipers.
also ordered the correct distribution and proportioning valve, along with correct rear diff brake splitter block.
also ordered the correct distribution and proportioning valve, along with correct rear diff brake splitter block.
GEO
Sarcasm Inc.
This is the one I used on my car
http://www.moparsupercenter.com/stainless-master-cylinder-heat-shieldp4510634.html
txstang84
Well-Known Member
I counted myself in that group-I couldn't find the correct 10x1.75" drums either! Great that you found them. I might order a set just to have spares.
Robj
Well-Known Member
You can also find those plugs and nipples at Ace Hardware and most others. 3/8 and 1/4 NPT threads. The larger bypass nipple I ordered an MP one from Summit.
the intake manifold came with the larger nipple and a 3/8 npt plug. the plug I don't need and I didn't know it came with the other one, so I ordered two new ones...one large and one small same as the original manifold. the small doesn't fit the new manifold and now I don't need the large one since it came with the new manifold.
the one hole that I have left to plug on the new manifold is 1/8npt...so the plug it came with is useless to me, unless for future reasons.
it also came with gaskets, which I didn't know.
I bought an entire gasket set, when all I really needed was valve cover and oil pan gaskets. womp womp...oh well...spares.
the one hole that I have left to plug on the new manifold is 1/8npt...so the plug it came with is useless to me, unless for future reasons.
it also came with gaskets, which I didn't know.
I bought an entire gasket set, when all I really needed was valve cover and oil pan gaskets. womp womp...oh well...spares.
correct, they seem to be. (yoda) they fit anyways and I didn't notice any interference with the back shield. they spun and I could hear the brake pads contacting, so that was good news. I call that 90% right now....100% when they actually work when i'm driving. lol.
when you order them from summit, they say FRONT....but they fit on the rear.
finally worked out all of the plumbing issues I had for the new manifold and just kinda hand tightened them in.
got new carb studs, I liked the black and zinc, vs chromed. got new throttle return springs and stud as well. they were cheap...might as well. I really like how the manifold says mopar right up front on it.
I threw the carb up on the studs and then the breather just to see kinda what it would look like. gotta say...that is gorgeous.
got new carb studs, I liked the black and zinc, vs chromed. got new throttle return springs and stud as well. they were cheap...might as well. I really like how the manifold says mopar right up front on it.
I threw the carb up on the studs and then the breather just to see kinda what it would look like. gotta say...that is gorgeous.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Mmm buddy-lookin good!
03JeepJeep
It's a hoot!
Mmmm gorgeous....
dropped the pan tonight.....PITA!!
The car has a cast crank in it, should be a forged, but that's okay...it wont be any kind of massive HP car. so cast is fine. I just need to make sure I get the right HB and that I have the correct torque converter.
this would probably explain the constant droaning vibration at certain rpms when driving. this also means I got the wrong harmonic balancer.....I got one for a forged crank, not cast. so....i'll have to return that and get a cast one. that is the cheaper option, rather then putting in a forged crank.
on the upside, everything looks clean and nice. the pistons look good with minimal wear on the skirts or the cylinder walls.
I'm having a lot of fun unraveling this mystery with my Father. even though this car has been in the family since 1989....we don't know what happened to it in the first 19 years of its life. obviously the motor isn't the one it was born with....and the crank is wrong for a 70 340. but meh...it works.
The car has a cast crank in it, should be a forged, but that's okay...it wont be any kind of massive HP car. so cast is fine. I just need to make sure I get the right HB and that I have the correct torque converter.
this would probably explain the constant droaning vibration at certain rpms when driving. this also means I got the wrong harmonic balancer.....I got one for a forged crank, not cast. so....i'll have to return that and get a cast one. that is the cheaper option, rather then putting in a forged crank.
on the upside, everything looks clean and nice. the pistons look good with minimal wear on the skirts or the cylinder walls.
I'm having a lot of fun unraveling this mystery with my Father. even though this car has been in the family since 1989....we don't know what happened to it in the first 19 years of its life. obviously the motor isn't the one it was born with....and the crank is wrong for a 70 340. but meh...it works.
My dad took out the gauge cluster yesterday. boy whoever owned the car before my dad really wacked out the wiring. the circuit boards are toast and there are wires running to replace the copper board runs.
this will have to be left for another day and more dollars. need new circuit boards and probably going to need a yearone under dash harness as well.
but hey...it'll all come together and be better then it was before and i'll have fun doing it. plus I get to see my dad and develop even more memories then I already have with this car.
what should I be looking for as to the burned connector on the headlight switch??
also the voltage limiter doesn't look like the correct one? the new solid state voltage limiters have three prongs on them. any help here is appreciated. see ebay link to reproduction voltage limiter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161119693086?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
this will have to be left for another day and more dollars. need new circuit boards and probably going to need a yearone under dash harness as well.
but hey...it'll all come together and be better then it was before and i'll have fun doing it. plus I get to see my dad and develop even more memories then I already have with this car.
what should I be looking for as to the burned connector on the headlight switch??
also the voltage limiter doesn't look like the correct one? the new solid state voltage limiters have three prongs on them. any help here is appreciated. see ebay link to reproduction voltage limiter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161119693086?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Robj
Well-Known Member
Wow! That last photo is a little hinky looking....
yeah...when it comes time for wiring its gonna be an adventure. I've already determined that i'll just have to save for a repo dash wiring harness and the two circuit boards and voltage limiter. dash worked before, but this stuff worries me that it will short or arch or something and burn the whole car to the ground.
yeah...I know...hasn't yet....but key word is yet.
yeah...I know...hasn't yet....but key word is yet.
I don't have any pictures of it because my hands were covered in grease, but the driver's side axle is out to replace the inner seal. after reading over the shop manual, I don't have any of the tools or expertise to do the bearings and outer seal without taking the axles in to a shop. then I have to check the end play again. just looks like a total PITA. i'm gonna just hope the inner seal is leaking a bit too much and the outer one can't keep up. just gonna but new inner seals in and hope it stops.
the bearings looked okay to me, no idea when they were ever replaced before....if at all. there wasn't really any packing grease....only thing lubing them was the axle grease that was getting by the inner seal. when I replace the inner seal I plan on packing the bearing back really good.
unless any of you guys know a way to do the bearings on a 8 3/4 fairly easy with some trick.
also installed the KYB gas a justs on all 4 corners tonight.
the bearings looked okay to me, no idea when they were ever replaced before....if at all. there wasn't really any packing grease....only thing lubing them was the axle grease that was getting by the inner seal. when I replace the inner seal I plan on packing the bearing back really good.
unless any of you guys know a way to do the bearings on a 8 3/4 fairly easy with some trick.
also installed the KYB gas a justs on all 4 corners tonight.
ordered new circuit boards for the gauge cluster and a new solid state voltage limiter from rt-eng.com boards. they are used, but in excellent condition and anything is better then what I have now that's for sure.
sorry no pictures lately, I know how people like those. when the stainless engine bolt kit comes in I can start mounting stuff to the motor and I'll have more to show.
sorry no pictures lately, I know how people like those. when the stainless engine bolt kit comes in I can start mounting stuff to the motor and I'll have more to show.
started rebuilding the front calipers. i didn't bother painting them, since the main focus is functionality.
one of the pistons was out of wack for some reason and would not insert into the caliper correctly. i kept ripping seals and coudln't figure it out until i took out my digital calipers to measure. the other 7 were 1.634....this one was 1.640, which you wouldn't think would make much difference, but it did...big time. so i ordered a new piston online.
everytime i put the piston in, i had to tap it in with a rubber mallet and then it would get stuck....so who knows how long that has been this way affecting braking function.
you can see the rear bearing is good, but is in need of a good repacking. inner seal will be replaced.
bolt kit should be in today, so things should start getting attached ot the motor soon.
started rebuilding the hubs as well. old bearings and races out and installed the new races. i got the wrong inner seals...so i have to get the right ones to proceed. 8121s seal....even though autozone says for 11" brakes....is not the right one. 6840s is the correct one...even though it says 10" brakes.
one of the pistons was out of wack for some reason and would not insert into the caliper correctly. i kept ripping seals and coudln't figure it out until i took out my digital calipers to measure. the other 7 were 1.634....this one was 1.640, which you wouldn't think would make much difference, but it did...big time. so i ordered a new piston online.
everytime i put the piston in, i had to tap it in with a rubber mallet and then it would get stuck....so who knows how long that has been this way affecting braking function.
you can see the rear bearing is good, but is in need of a good repacking. inner seal will be replaced.
bolt kit should be in today, so things should start getting attached ot the motor soon.
started rebuilding the hubs as well. old bearings and races out and installed the new races. i got the wrong inner seals...so i have to get the right ones to proceed. 8121s seal....even though autozone says for 11" brakes....is not the right one. 6840s is the correct one...even though it says 10" brakes.
timing cover, waterpump, and fuel pump in place.
for the hard lines to the carb....i need to buy a new fitting for the carb inlet. the one on there is for a rubber hose. will this be the correct oem inlet for a AVS with 5/16" fuel line?
http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester...ngs-fuel-inlet-fitting-oem-7000262-p-576.html
just so everyone knows that is a AFE oiled cotton gauze high flow air filter, 10-10022. since the k&n didn't fit, i got that one. it fits better on the diameter.
the hose is just on there temp, we were checking fitment since it was originally for the stock intake and this intake has the inlet nipple in a different location.
for the hard lines to the carb....i need to buy a new fitting for the carb inlet. the one on there is for a rubber hose. will this be the correct oem inlet for a AVS with 5/16" fuel line?
http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester...ngs-fuel-inlet-fitting-oem-7000262-p-576.html
just so everyone knows that is a AFE oiled cotton gauze high flow air filter, 10-10022. since the k&n didn't fit, i got that one. it fits better on the diameter.
the hose is just on there temp, we were checking fitment since it was originally for the stock intake and this intake has the inlet nipple in a different location.
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