High-zinc oil or ZDDP oil additives?

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Chained_360

Chained_360

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So I have a 360 LA block engine from roughly the early to mid seventies in my barracuda. When I first got the car, I threw in some cheap-o $3.99 a quart Napa oil (no, I haven't been driving the car on it) just to have something clean in it while I get the car roadworthy. I will do an oil change before it hits the road for good with something a little nicer, but for now, I'm wondering if I should throw in some zinc oil additives. I know that oil used to have high zinc levels (1200-1400 ppm), and that modern oil has much less. Should I get some additives?
 
if you try a search you will be able to answer your questions because there is 1000 threads on this maybe more .
 
Thanks to the EPA, formulations of motor oil seem to change monthly. I would wager to guess you have mild valve springs? That would be in your favor. I use a little lucas additive. I used to mix 20% Cenpeco race oil(over 2000ppm ) with 80% Mobil 1. I drive so little anymore frequent oil changes are probably just as critical. Rotella is good, but not what it was 2 years ago. I wont pay the boutique motor oil prices.
 
Torco makes the best additive in that category.

Zinc is essential, even in a roller cammed engine. The real problem is that zinc is a horsepower eater.

Look for ways to make zinc not eat horsepower. That is what the Torco additive does.
 
Just regular VR1 valvoline, easy to find and has a lot of zinc etc.. So you don't have to play chemist.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Just regular VR1 valvoline, easy to find and has a lot of zinc etc.. So you don't have to play chemist.
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I know guys don't like to gear it, but that oil is one of the biggest horsepower thieves out there.


The oil you have is fine as a base oil. You need a quality additive, OR you need to spend way more on oil per quart.

I pay about $22.00 a quart for oil right now, and I do it gladly, with a smile. After thousands of dollars of testing, I can tell you oil does make a difference.
 
yellow rose said:
Torco makes the best additive in that category.

Zinc is essential, even in a roller cammed engine. The real problem is that zinc is a horsepower eater.

Look for ways to make zinc not eat horsepower. That is what the Torco additive does.
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I've never heard that zinc eats horse power. Can you elaborate further?
 
I use Amsoil for Muscle cars. It is a pain because you have to order it, and it isn't cheap, but it seems to work well.
 
I prefer to find oil with a high zinc content, rather than use an additive. That way, it's already mixed and I have nothing extra to buy. The market is slam full of high zinc oils. Pick one and go with it.
 
Doosterfy said:
I've never heard that zinc eats horse power. Can you elaborate further?
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Go to torcousa.com

then click on innovations. read what they have posted.

The reason you don't hear it is because the oil companies want to mas market the cheapest oil they can. If they told you that their oil ate horsepower would you buy it?

Beware of oil companies that labor over base oils. Everyone can get the sames base oils. The difference in oils is in the additive packages. I don't count group III base oils as synthetic, even though SCOTUS ruled that it is. Just shows you how ignorant SCOTUS is.
 
Just use Crisco... seriously... spend the next 6 months of your life reading....then put the choices on a dart board....best of 999 wins.....
 
Unless you're running a flat tappet solid lifter cam you don't really need anything other than a good off the shelf synthetic oil, IMHO. I run a Ford 2500cc mini-stock at my local short track with a Lunati solid cam 550/560 lift, turning 7800 RPM. I run a good synthetic oil like Amsoil or Mobil 1 with a bottle of Schneider Cams Formula 3 additive that has all the ZDDP needed. 1/2 bottle (4 oz.) with each oil change (6 quarts). Guys running the hydraulic cams run a good off the shelf oil with no additives and they see no more wear than I do.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Stick Lucas Hot Rod in it and be done. 10-30 or 10-40. Has high zinc.
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I agree. As much as I preached it, I got shot down just as much, so I stop recommending brand names.
 
yellow rose said:
I know guys don't like to gear it, but that oil is one of the biggest horsepower thieves out there.


The oil you have is fine as a base oil. You need a quality additive, OR you need to spend way more on oil per quart.

I pay about $22.00 a quart for oil right now, and I do it gladly, with a smile. After thousands of dollars of testing, I can tell you oil does make a difference.
Click to expand...

That's a lot of money per quart, does it come with a money back offer if the Torco 10w30 doesn't make a real HP increase like at least 5HP more on a 400hp engine over the VR1 10w30? Otherwise it's just BS.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
That's a lot of money per quart, does it come with a money back offer if the Torco 10w30 doesn't make a real HP increase like at least 5HP more on a 400hp engine over the VR1 10w30? Otherwise it's just BS.
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Then you just need to use cheep oil.

I can tell you have never tested oil. You have no idea what it costs. How easy it is to screw it up and ruin the results.

Like rusty rat rod, I don't usually suggest products. But I got my *** ate out in the transmission section because I wouldn't do so I do it here and that is what happens.

So I will never do it again.


Make sure the next time you buy a carb, headers, spark plugs, tires or a cam, make sure you get a money back offer.

But, I have spent the time, and the money and went through the correct protocol, and I have never seen any oil out horsepower Torco. A couple got close, but I won't name them. The real benefit comes from the companies who build oil (or other parts and pieces) that are very application specific. Alcohol engines don't do well with TRUE synthetic base stocks. So there is more to it than just running to the parts store.

For those of us who have invested a lifetime of study to the science of motorsports, the reality of the fact that some people never learn or move forward in thought is inconceivable. Yet it happens every day.

Carry on with what you are doing. It works right?
 
Im running mobil one 15w50.
Has 1300 ppm zinc and 1200 ppm phosphorus. Was recommended by my engine builder
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Just regular VR1 valvoline, easy to find and has a lot of zinc etc.. So you don't have to play chemist.
Click to expand...

This ! and if your engine is sealed and finely tuned like mine, the vr1 will be clean at the next oil change. I have used Valvoline exclusively for 40 years, with no failure at high rpm racing and street use.
 
There are plenty of affordable oils on the market that will do a great job of anything from a stone stock street engine to a full blown drag race engine.

If you're payin 20 bucks a quart for motor oil, somebody saw you comin. There's a sucker born every minute.
 
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