Holley sniper efi

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alyak

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I have a 360 I am putting together that I was originally going to put a Holley 750 double pumper on, but someone I know is selling a Holley sniper kit for $550. I am wondering if it is worth it to make the switch? I found a website with data showing the 750 cfm carb outperforming the sniper system, but was wondering if anybody has this system installed and can give me a rundown
 
You have just started a VERY long argument LOL.
Whether you are happy with any EFI is going to be how it is installed and whether you have an grounding/ ground loop/ RFI/EMI problems, etc etc and whether you can program it. It might be "self learning" for the fuel map but that is certainly not the complete picture.

I WOULD CERTAINLY want to "rig" that system up and verify that it powers up and seems OK before you buy it. That would be a GOOD buy if it is complete. And works
 
Thank you for the information. I will definitely make sure it powers on first
 
Be very leary of the used snipers. Majority of people have issues and remove. One short can screw up circuits and you won't know till it is wired in.
For sniper to repair could cost more than buying new.

Honestly, i would not even look at any used systems.
 
I have a setup thats new, never been installed. Would it be considered a used or new system?
 
I have Sniper in a 408, really like it. I’m told someone that really can tune a carb can do better but that’s not me. A bunch of learning during install and initial tunes. But uploading a new tune file takes 20 seconds, if I don’t like it 20 seconds to change it back. Right now it’s way better than the carb that the builder put on it.
 
This was probably one of the most helpful videos for me for getting good throttle response out of the sniper system. This won’t make much sense until you actually have the system installed and drive around with it…they run pretty well out of the box, but stumble hard on lean bog and the system doesn’t learn very quickly since you don’t spend much time at dead stop or part throttle then instant WOT.



You’re going to want a laptop and the USB to CAN adapter cable.

I love my sniper system, but it definitely required a little help, and time from me searching for videos like this.
 
I don’t know what your skill level is but since you’re asking in a very general manner, it’s probably not worth it.

First and foremost, you will need a thorough understanding of electrical systems and must be competent at wiring. Most aborted installs are because of wiring-related failures. I’ve seen it happen enough where guys “think” they know how to deal with wiring but really don’t. You can’t twist wires together and wrap tape around it, no quick splices, no piggy backing stuff off the fuse box, etc.

Also, if the wiring in the car is original it’s probably a good idea to completely rewire it. Would also be a good idea to upgrade your alternator too. The first Snipers are susceptible to RFI and suspect/poor wiring will only increase the chances of it happening.

The Sniper itself is just the start though. You’ll need to figure out a suitable fuel delivery system that is capable of providing the proper EFI pressure. In tank pumps are best but you can get by with an external one but they tend to be noisy.

It’s also kind of a waste to try and run the Sniper with a non-EFI ignition system since in general you won’t be able to control the timing. Controlling timing is one of the main benefits of the system so to run without it is kind of pointless.

You’ll also need to be willing to tune with a laptop if you really want to get your tune as sharp as possible. Most guys don’t get past the generic “Wizard” tune and end up leaving a lot on the table.

A lot of people believe the marketing and go into these systems thinking it’s some magic box that will make the car run perfect without lifting a finger but that couldn’t be further from reality. If your engine sucks with a carb, chances are it will suck with EFI.

If you’re into that scenario, go for it. If not, it’s probably not worth the time and effort.
 
The one failure I know of is a friend who has one on a 360 in a 79 LRE. He left the handheld display plugged in and it failed, the replacement required updated software, or something to that effect. Short story - you don't need the display in constantly.
 
Subscribe the infos from the other writers. Dont let fool you by the price, im pretty sure you need a fuel pump, pressure regulator, pressure gauge and more. The original 30 amps generator is on the low side There is the new Sniper 2 released with less RFI sensitivity. I highly recommend tuning by laptop. Installing of an EFI needs a lot of knowledge ( or willing to learn) and passion. Support is great from Holley forum Chris Meyer Efisystempro. If you are on a thight budget stay with the carb, nothing wrong with it.
Pro EFI: Its reliable too, changing tuning files in a second. data logging, nitro control, fan control, ac control, build in two step module. supperb cold start in any sealevel. abel to run a catalytic converter. less ring wear from precise fuel control.
 
I generally take the "go big or go home" rule with EFI - factory TBIs were a halfway measure to get some of the benefits of EFI with minimal parts changes, and aftermarket TBI systems are the same way. I'd generally recommend a port EFI setup with the EFI controlling the timing as well to get full benefits.

But there are times when the budget or available time means a halfway measure is a reasonable compromise, particularly if you don't already have a fuel system. Some considerations if you go that route:

Early Sniper systems had some of the worst RFI vulnerability I've seen in a fuel injection system, and I've done tech support for MegaSquirt-1 units with the V2.2 board. They will need good spark plug wires and good grounding, and also I would run a 60 amp alternator at minimum. What's the difference between a good chassis ground and Santa Claus? You can be a competent tuner and believe in Santa. Ground your EFI straight to the battery for best results, and this applies whether you use a Sniper or something more capable.

You will need a high pressure fuel system with an electric pump. This isn't particularly difficult, so much as different. The Sniper unit already has the regulator built in. It's possible to put a high pressure pump on the end of your stock fuel sending unit and slip it in the tank, although you'll need a suitable bulkhead connector for the electronics. But my preference is to sump the tank and weld a pick up to the sump, then use the sending unit as a return.

Want easy computer controlled ignition when not running sequential injection? Use a Lean Burn distributor for easy locked timing and wire it to a 7 or 8 pin GM HEI module.

Last of all, just because an EFI system is advertised as self tuning doesn't mean you won't have to tune it in real life.
 
I think we scared him off.

Holley EFI is cool and fun but it's really not for everyone. You have to go into it with your eyes open in terms of the overall cost and the commitment it takes to get it sorted out. If you only put a few hundred miles a year on your toy then keep your money in your pocket.

I would almost guarantee the deal the OP is looking at was someone who got frustrated with it and put a carb back on.
 
I've installed and tuned dozens of Snipers including the one on my Coronet. The Sniper is a really nice entry level EFI system. They are fairly easy to tune and work on but there is a bit of a learning curve. The install is much more difficult than Holley claims, but any decent mechanic can get it done in a day or so. When I built my Duster I stepped up to a Holley Dominator EFI system but a Sniper would've worked okay. Just not as much eye candy with a Sniper as there is with the port injection stuff.

DSC_4016 (Large).JPG
 
If you want to be successful you need to spend a lot of time and some cash with the fuel system.

I wouldn't do anything other than the Tanks, Inc tank / similar or the Aeromotive Phantom I have with a full return system.

The rest shouldn't be too bad. I don't like having the electronics as part of the throttle body. I also have a port system (Megasquirt 3) on my car since 2015. If you know wiring, you can make it work. For the megasquirt other than the "install" and some manual tuning for cold start and IAC, I basically fired it right up, let it idle in the driveway for 20 minutes and went to a car show with the auto tune on and then just kept datalogging and updating to get a pretty decent baseline and then smoothed it.

In my case the driveability is far better than even the well tuned carb I had and I got maybe 1.5 MPG from it. MUCH better when the engine is cold.
 
I have a 360 I am putting together that I was originally going to put a Holley 750 double pumper on, but someone I know is selling a Holley sniper kit for $550. I am wondering if it is worth it to make the switch? I found a website with data showing the 750 cfm carb outperforming the sniper system, but was wondering if anybody has this system installed and can give me a rundown
I would buy a used carburetor, because I can rebuild it. I would NOT buy a used Sniper EFI setup. Why do you think he is selling it? Not because it was working great.
 
I wouldn't have a problem buying a used Sniper as long as I can power it up and review the sensor data. If all of the sensors are reading correctly then it should be good to go.
 
I've installed and tuned dozens of Snipers including the one on my Coronet. The Sniper is a really nice entry level EFI system. They are fairly easy to tune and work on but there is a bit of a learning curve. The install is much more difficult than Holley claims, but any decent mechanic can get it done in a day or so. When I built my Duster I stepped up to a Holley Dominator EFI system but a Sniper would've worked okay. Just not as much eye candy with a Sniper as there is with the port injection stuff.

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Damn!! Very clean install!! :thumbsup:
 
Andy F is a well known Holley Forum supporter! Thanks Andy, by the way.
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This is the Terminator Stealth TB with external ECU and Hyperspark coil and distributor. Powermaster 150 Amps generator, Mercedes 50A brushless fan.
 
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