HOLLEY SNIPER FUEL INJECTION ~or~ CARBURETOR???

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V24x2

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Hello MOPAR enthusiasts, I am on the fence about installing the HOLLEY SNIPER FI kit that I purchased. What has me concerned is how many modern FI KITS are for sale….used with “ only 100 miles”……”used for one week!”……”like new, changed direction!” I have everything I need laying in front of me but I’m concerned for these reasons. Has anybody had a FI kit on their car and switched back to carb?? Let’s just lay it all out with no BS!! I see this way too often and can go into Marketplace or on CL and find 100 of these kits in my area for sale. Honestly, it’s how I bought my kit, used/like new! The price was right…..or was the dreams and hopes wrong?? Any help would be appreciated before I get this all together here in the next month or so! Thanks
 
I'll probably order everything to go Sniper EFI this winter based on my friend who has installed 6 or 7 of these with no issues. I think you'll find probably 95% of issues are from installation error or not following the directions. I think the best advice I've found is install what your used to and comfortable tuning. As per your purchase, did the seller give you any reason they sold it?
 
I have a FI tech go EFI 400hp or less street.
I ALMOST switched back but decided to hang in there and now down to limited issues. Not sure on Holley but the FI tech has a few pitfalls nobody tells you about.
A) it’s not plug and play. A lot of playing with numbers to get it right… or close to right (running to a level that is decent.
B) tech support sucks. Holley without even trying beats them. Every time I call- it’s at least 1hr hang time and then they are borderline rude.
C) right out of the box the sensors were junk. I ended up buying new name brand sensors and it improved immediately.
D) hand held that comes with it is about the size of an old beeper and the screen is a bit better than an old calculator. some commands you have to scroll too and some you can touch screen to. It’s like the left hand did not know what the right hand was doing when designing the hand held.
E) Fuel pressure is difficult to control but accurate pressure is needed for the damn thing to run right.
F) did I mention tech support sucks.

Anyhoo- I stuck with it and it is not as good as my wife’s newer Chrysler 300s or any of my new Hemi’s but it is turn key and reasonable to drive. Plenty of power and my only issue now is ac control (idle bump up when ac is commands on) and weird idle - sometimes it’s 1100 some times 850 where it should be. Sometimes it drops on its own and others just hangs out…. Forever at the higher idle. Also I’d add the control cord for the hand held is too short for driving without buying an add on extension cord.
 
Problem with the guys that have issues with the sniper type of kits is you never know if they actually installed them properly. They could be the problem not the EFI kit.
 
I fully admit that for a "simplified startup" on a new engine, a carb seems like it's a whole bunch simpler. That's what I plan to do. My EFI path was a "step by step" due to used parts What will go back on "for now" is a Holley HP computer driving an old Holley TBI "commander 950" TB which can be upgraded to port injection

Also I "started out" using the EFI ONLY for fuel, not spark advance. So that removes yet another complication "I don't have to worry about"

In other words---how much would it take, really.........to add a regulator so you can temporarily toss a carb and distributor on the engine to get it running and broke in, then set up the EFI once you have the "initial startup" stuff handled? Or if you don't need to drive it with the carb, just "overhead" hang a fuel tank (outboard motor?) to supply the carb
 
Problem with the guys that have issues with the sniper type of kits is you never know if they actually installed them properly. They could be the problem not the EFI kit.

That’s easy to say- not sure if you’ve installed one yet. It’s not hard- a bit tougher than installing a carb and fuel system with return line, some electrical, etc. You need to make sure your exhaust is solid and sealed up for good O2 readings. Your wiring is solid and not hack. Over all not bad to do and knowing what I know now, I’d do it again. My trouble is the programming as it’s supposed to be a “learnable system.” They are but to a point. For the FITech, there is no description of terms so you know what you are changing (adaptive) and what the end result will do. IAC and TPS are easy and self explanatory but when you change the fuel blocks one at a time to correct say a hesitation at off idle condition. That’s when it gets tricky. But I agree a lot of times poor install could be blamed and the unit scrapped for a 750 double pumper from Bobo zone. “On sale with an online coupon.”
 
Will you ever have to walk home if you have a carburetor issue? Will you have to walk home if your EFI has a issue. I've ran both, carburetors are simple, cheap, easy to tune and parts readily available. Just stuff to think about
 
Holley has lots of support and documentation not in the initial supplied documents. The Holley forum has boatloads of info. You have to dig for it. There are a couple of programming videos, Morris engines made one that is not bad but the resolution is not that great. I have emailed them a couple times urging them to make a "more modern" (higher rez) video Holley is pretty much the winner in this game for support
 
Like many others I have both, the one thing I have found to echo everyone else is the EFI is not plug and play. Invariably the root cause issue is on the install not faulty components. They are very finicky for setup and install. But once sorted out they are magic. I just got done putting a Holley HP in my 72 Demon. One of the other things I have found is there is a huge difference between a ordinary guy like me setting up the tune vs someone who does it for a living every single day. Folks are passionate about the like and dislike of dyno tuning but my experience is I get it close and somewhat smooth then take it to a dyno tuner shop for the refinement. It always comes off the dyno like a new car. Money well spent my humble opinion. Oddly enough I was at my local dyno setting up appt for 72 Demon today. They have now quit tuning anything but Holley platforms/ LS or imports. Basically Ford and Mopar guys are out of luck at his race shop. He explained the Holley platform and LS swaps are monopolizing his time to the point he just won’t mess with Mopar software and or Fords. Thankfully I am running Holley HP. These guys own our local drag strip and drift track. They have been dyno tuning for years. Translated they are excellent at what they do so it was interesting to me the willingness from a business standpoint to abandon Ford and Dodge.
 
That’s easy to say- not sure if you’ve installed one yet. It’s not hard- a bit tougher than installing a carb and fuel system with return line, some electrical, etc. You need to make sure your exhaust is solid and sealed up for good O2 readings. Your wiring is solid and not hack. Over all not bad to do and knowing what I know now, I’d do it again. My trouble is the programming as it’s supposed to be a “learnable system.” They are but to a point. For the FITech, there is no description of terms so you know what you are changing (adaptive) and what the end result will do. IAC and TPS are easy and self explanatory but when you change the fuel blocks one at a time to correct say a hesitation at off idle condition. That’s when it gets tricky. But I agree a lot of times poor install could be blamed and the unit scrapped for a 750 double pumper from Bobo zone. “On sale with an online coupon.”

Yes it is easy to day. Yes I've been around them. And if you follow any forum you'll see how many hacks that are out there screwing up the simplest things. there is definitely a learning curve to any of the EFI units but one needs to step out of the stone ages and actually agree to learn something new at times.
 
Like many others I have both, the one thing I have found to echo everyone else is the EFI is not plug and play. Invariably the root cause issue is on the install not faulty components. They are very finicky for setup and install. But once sorted out they are magic. I just got done putting a Holley HP in my 72 Demon. One of the other things I have found is there is a huge difference between a ordinary guy like me setting up the tune vs someone who does it for a living every single day. Folks are passionate about the like and dislike of dyno tuning but my experience is I get it close and somewhat smooth then take it to a dyno tuner shop for the refinement. It always comes off the dyno like a new car. Money well spent my humble opinion. Oddly enough I was at my local dyno setting up appt for 72 Demon today. They have now quit tuning anything but Holley platforms/ LS or imports. Basically Ford and Mopar guys are out of luck at his race shop. He explained the Holley platform and LS swaps are monopolizing his time to the point he just won’t mess with Mopar software and or Fords. Thankfully I am running Holley HP. These guys own our local drag strip and drift track. They have been dyno tuning for years. Translated they are excellent at what they do so it was interesting to me the willingness from a business standpoint to abandon Ford and Dodge.

But comparing Holley to GM, Ford and Dodge is a whole different deal. Holley is all aftermarket, although they (Holley) obviously target GM first as it is the most lucrative. But tuning a Holley that is installed on a Ford or Mopar is not much different than a Holley installed on an "anything"
 
But comparing Holley to GM, Ford and Dodge is a whole different deal. Holley is all aftermarket, although they (Holley) obviously target GM first as it is the most lucrative. But tuning a Holley that is installed on a Ford or Mopar is not much different than a Holley installed on an "anything"
Agreed, that is only reason they will do the Demon as it is a Gen three 6.1 Hemi platform but I swapped it over to Holley for fuel mgmt exactly because of software issues from factory I did not want to screw with.
 
That’s easy to say- not sure if you’ve installed one yet. It’s not hard- a bit tougher than installing a carb and fuel system with return line, some electrical, etc. You need to make sure your exhaust is solid and sealed up for good O2 readings. Your wiring is solid and not hack. Over all not bad to do and knowing what I know now, I’d do it again. My trouble is the programming as it’s supposed to be a “learnable system.” They are but to a point. For the FITech, there is no description of terms so you know what you are changing (adaptive) and what the end result will do. IAC and TPS are easy and self explanatory but when you change the fuel blocks one at a time to correct say a hesitation at off idle condition. That’s when it gets tricky. But I agree a lot of times poor install could be blamed and the unit scrapped for a 750 double pumper from Bobo zone. “On sale with an online coupon.”
Fitech...
Big cam idle issues. That's what I know.
They learn...to dump fuel at idle with a big cam to keep it smooth...plugs blackened.

I'm not impressed.
 
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I recently installed the sniper setup on my stock 71 duster 340 4 speed.
I also installed the returnless Holley fuel pump that fits in the tank and hyperspark distributor and module.
Also the progressive link.
I took my time soldered every wire connection and routed all the wires carefully to avoid any emt issues.
It fired right up and ran freaking awesome. it was learning and everything was going great.
Then a couple days later I had to use my headlights.
The alternator couldn’t keep up. It was dropping below 12 volts. I barely made it home.
I ended up installing a 130 amp one wire alternator.
Then she fired up and ran great at idle but as soon as I touched the throttle it would die. I quickly realized my tps crapped out. Maybe due to the alternator issue or just a crappy part who knows. I replaced the tps sensor and it has been running great ever since. I don’t drive it often but have probably put about 200 miles on it since the install. I do want to take it to a local tuner though and get it on the dyno.
Holleys customer service is excellent!!
I did have to deal with them about a metal chip issue that I posted about a little while back.
I was going to install a double pumper and MSD distributor and 6al box. Also a electric fuel pump. When I started adding up all the prices it didn’t seem like it was going to be much more money to go with the sniper. I guess it was a few dollars more but I am very happy with my decision to go with the Holley sniper!
 
I recently installed the sniper setup on my stock 71 duster 340 4 speed.
I also installed the returnless Holley fuel pump that fits in the tank and hyperspark distributor and module.
Also the progressive link.
I took my time soldered every wire connection and routed all the wires carefully to avoid any emt issues.
It fired right up and ran freaking awesome. it was learning and everything was going great.
Then a couple days later I had to use my headlights.
The alternator couldn’t keep up. It was dropping below 12 volts. I barely made it home.
I ended up installing a 130 amp one wire alternator.
Then she fired up and ran great at idle but as soon as I touched the throttle it would die. I quickly realized my tps crapped out. Maybe due to the alternator issue or just a crappy part who knows. I replaced the tps sensor and it has been running great ever since. I don’t drive it often but have probably put about 200 miles on it since the install. I do want to take it to a local tuner though and get it on the dyno.
Holleys customer service is excellent!!
I did have to deal with them about a metal chip issue that I posted about a little while back.
I was going to install a double pumper and MSD distributor and 6al box. Also a electric fuel pump. When I started adding up all the prices it didn’t seem like it was going to be much more money to go with the sniper. I guess it was a few dollars more but I am very happy with my decision to go with the Holley sniper!

I dearly hope you upgraded the wiring to handle that big alternator!! Have you bypassed the ammeter?
 
I recently installed the sniper setup on my stock 71 duster 340 4 speed.
I also installed the returnless Holley fuel pump that fits in the tank and hyperspark distributor and module.
Also the progressive link.
I took my time soldered every wire connection and routed all the wires carefully to avoid any emt issues.
It fired right up and ran freaking awesome. it was learning and everything was going great.
Then a couple days later I had to use my headlights.
The alternator couldn’t keep up. It was dropping below 12 volts. I barely made it home.
I ended up installing a 130 amp one wire alternator.
Then she fired up and ran great at idle but as soon as I touched the throttle it would die. I quickly realized my tps crapped out. Maybe due to the alternator issue or just a crappy part who knows. I replaced the tps sensor and it has been running great ever since. I don’t drive it often but have probably put about 200 miles on it since the install. I do want to take it to a local tuner though and get it on the dyno.
Holleys customer service is excellent!!
I did have to deal with them about a metal chip issue that I posted about a little while back.
I was going to install a double pumper and MSD distributor and 6al box. Also a electric fuel pump. When I started adding up all the prices it didn’t seem like it was going to be much more money to go with the sniper. I guess it was a few dollars more but I am very happy with my decision to go with the Holley sniper!

Yes and to add to my long winded post above - be prepared to spend some cash on extras. Intank fuel pump and return lines. Larger feed line. Oodles of power needed. Stock wiring is not happy. Or deleting things like I don’t know…. Headlights and electric fans, radios and amps. Lol!
 
Let's see you find Holley support broke down on the side of the road on a Sunday afternoon in 95 degree weather. If a carburetor has an issue, you can most likely limp it home. EFI problem and you're dead in the water.
 
Holley Sniper EFI here in my my A100.

Love it.

I was one of those guys who made a simple error.....but after talking with JohnnyMac, it was sorted out. Do not attempt to fire up an engine until the installation is completed....including the O2 sensor. :rolleyes:

Yes, there is some ongoing tuning involved, but when that can be done from the driver's seat, I am happy. Got plenty of miles on my pickup now, and I am happy about that. It's a different installation to a car, so we took our time running braided hoses, and thru-chassis fittings etc....makes for a tidy install.

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How do ya like my tips ??? :D
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upload_2021-9-15_15-45-29.png
 
Holley Sniper EFI here in my my A100.

Love it.

I was one of those guys who made a simple error.....but after talking with JohnnyMac, it was sorted out. Do not attempt to fire up an engine until the installation is completed....including the O2 sensor. :rolleyes:

Yes, there is some ongoing tuning involved, but when that can be done from the driver's seat, I am happy. Got plenty of miles on my pickup now, and I am happy about that. It's a different installation to a car, so we took our time running braided hoses, and thru-chassis fittings etc....makes for a tidy install.

View attachment 1715790771

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How do ya like my tips ??? :D
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I like the whole thing. That's a very professional install.
 
I forgot the eye-candy....the 408 stroker from BluePrint Engines .....courtesy of @Johnny Mac

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New custom built fuel tank....92 litres (24 US gallons) ....built about 2miles from my home.

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Fully aluminium, with internal baffles. Sender unit calibrated same as MoPar fuel gauge.
 
I ran a single 1 gauge straight to the battery through a circuit breaker.

"Good start" but you also need to inspect/ repair the feeds through the bulkhead "if you have not." EMI/RFI and just plain poor connections can raise hell with EFI systems
 
"Good start" but you also need to inspect/ repair the feeds through the bulkhead "if you have not." EMI/RFI and just plain poor connections can raise hell with EFI systems
I did not inspect the feeds through the bulkhead. Nor did I hook up the original 12 volt wire to the alternator. So now any time I use the headlights or accessories my ammeter gauge reads in the discharge range. Slightly. Fortunately I have had no EMI interference.
 
Carbs for me. Keep a spare in the trunk
15 min swap time. No friggin with electronic.. Nothing to burn out. Easy to diagnose. Cheap. Ive bought rebuildable double pumpers for Less than $50. Not interested in keeping up with the Jones's. I built my car fir me not others. I dont work to wirk on my car, i want to drive it !!!
 
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