Hooker 5204 Problem

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SpeedThrills

SpeedThrills

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I put the 360 in my 74 Dart Sport (cloned into a 70-71 Duster) last weekend using Schumacher mounts (it's a slant car). The engine seems to be sitting fine, so I don't think it's a mount problem.
They're 1 3/4.
I have the pass header in.
On the dr side, all the bolts are in, but the pitman and tie rod studs hit the the number 1 and 5 tubes, 5 being the worst. (The 5 tube is in the rear of the pics.) I could only get the bolts in because I positioned the pitman arm where it is in the pics. I can't turn the wheels left at all, turning right isn't pretty, and gets worse as I turn because the drag link hits because it is curved.
Looks like I'm pulling it out to whack the crap out of it.
I thought I'd post to vent a bit, and to see if anyone has run into this, and has some ideas.
Duster Header 1.JPG
Duster Header 2.JPG
Duster Header 3.JPG
Duster Header 4.JPG
 
they are designed for the 72 and earlier linkage...studs point up. on mine, somebody previously had installed a BB pitman arm. if that helped with clearance or not, I don't remember BUT I did tale the grease zerk out and installed an allen set screw. it was flush (almost) with the bottom of the arm. otherwise, that was scrapped on the header tube. fun headers to install!
 
abdywgn said:
they are designed for the 72 and earlier linkage...studs point up. on mine, somebody previously had installed a BB pitman arm. if that helped with clearance or not, I don't remember BUT I did tale the grease zerk out and installed an allen set screw. it was flush (almost) with the bottom of the arm. otherwise, that was scrapped on the header tube. fun headers to install!
Click to expand...


This is 100% correct. Why Chrylser changed the orientation of the Rod ends IDK.


I've used probably 20 sets of those over the years (have a used set in the shop right now...in great shape too) and until I ran into a 73 or later chassis they always fit well.

Hooker also make the 5303 which I run on my car. Those too, were designed for the 67-72 stuff. Since I had already encountered the tie rods hitting the header tube stuff before, I did a dry fit, marked the tube, notched the tube and took another 1.875 piece of exhaust tubing I had here and flipped it over and TIG welded it in.

That made a nice little trough for clearance.

OP you can just dimple the tube for clearance.
 
Ya learn something new every day. I didn't see this coming. lol Thanks abdywgn. Good ideas.

Like you say YR, why would they change that? I like the trough idea, but all I have is mig, and I don't think I could do it with out burning through. The other tube doesn't need much.
 
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either dent the tubes...or change out the drag link to 72 and older...
 
I'm denting them. The idler arm and pitman arm are different between 72 and older, and 73 up. I'm not even sure you can get a center link. (other than used, of course)
 
yellow rose said:
That's fine to dent them. It won't affect power.
Click to expand...

I agree but in that first pic it appears it will take one hell of a dent to get that to clear. These things are hard to judge by a picture so it will be up to the OP to decide.
 
installing the dents in the tubes isn't the hard part, it's the he'n and the she'n involved with getting to where you can make the dents, that's the *****
 
I used to think that denting tubes hurt power. But a couple years ago, I saw a test somewhere that showed it doesn't hurt. I don't remember where I saw that.

It's done now. I had to take it out 4 times to whack it, to be sure it was damaged enough. lol I used a 48 ounce "Ford Tool". Yes, Kursplat, I got my exercise today.

MM1974, you're right, the one tube was pretty bad.

There's no "after" pictures, I want to forget this as soon as possible!

It's a shame, they fit well otherwise.

Thanks fer the help!
 
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It was Freiburger and Dulich who did dyno testing on smashed headers. By the time they were done the tubes were almost smashed closed. Amazingly it did not make a ton of difference. Small dents made zero change in HP.
Their channel is one of my favorites on YouTube.
 
yellow rose said:
This is 100% correct. Why Chrylser changed the orientation of the Rod ends IDK.


I've used probably 20 sets of those over the years (have a used set in the shop right now...in great shape too) and until I ran into a 73 or later chassis they always fit well.

Hooker also make the 5303 which I run on my car. Those too, were designed for the 67-72 stuff. Since I had already encountered the tie rods hitting the header tube stuff before, I did a dry fit, marked the tube, notched the tube and took another 1.875 piece of exhaust tubing I had here and flipped it over and TIG welded it in.

That made a nice little trough for clearance.

OP you can just dimple the tube for clearance.
Click to expand...
Interesting, is that when Mopar also changed the way the front sway bar mounts on the A body?
 
A56 said:
Interesting, is that when Mopar also changed the way the front sway bar mounts on the A body?
Click to expand...


Not sure about that, but that's also when they went to the stupid K member with the crap engine mounts. I hate that thing.
 
What dont you like about the spool mounts? In my opinion they are light years better than the biscuit mount. Less engine movement and worst case is they sag when they fail. Biscuit mounts fail and the engine can pop up and hit the hood and take out the radiator at the same time.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
What dont you like about the spool mounts? In my opinion they are light years better than the biscuit mount. Less engine movement and worst case is they sag when they fail. Biscuit mounts fail and the engine can pop up and hit the hood and take out the radiator at the same time.
Click to expand...


Go find solid mounts for it. They didn't change the mount for any reason other than quicker and cheaper assembly.

If you can't see your motor mount needs to be changed I don't know what to say.

73 and later K member = junk.
 
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