hooker headers suck

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dazedduster

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after 12 hours of trying to insall hoker headers, i am actually farther away from my car running with all my tranny linkage out sterr box unbolted and steering column loosened. man im pissed. tomorrow i am going to pull the engine again and put them in like that. unless someone know some magic
 
I've never installed headers (that's right, I've been messing with Mopars since the late 70s and always had cast iron manifolds), but if you pull the steering column and steering linkage you might have an easier time and those parts are much easier to pull than the engine. I would try to install the passenger side first since there is less room.
 
One more thing, you may need to pull the torsion bars, too. I know that some headers have the steering linkage go between tubes and I suppose there's a possibility that the torsion bars could, too.
 
What do you have? Did you take out the steering linkage? On mine, I removed the outer tie rod ends from the spindles, idler arm from the k-frame and center link from the pitman arm. Slid that out thru the tubes of the headers. Starter comes out and back in when the d.s. header pivots off the front stud. P.S. header removes with oil filter adapter out of the way. Mine were #5204's . The first time was rough. After that, it just got easier and easier. How are your engine insulators? If they are old, weak or oil soaked, the engine might be sitting lower than normal. Hope this helps and good luck! Bob
 
When I installed my Hookers on the 318 swaped Duster, I have to admit, I cursed a little. But, if you have ever tried some other headers out there, your post wouldn't say they suck, but "I got my money back!"

I couln't seem to raise the car enuff. I did take down all my front end parts including the pitman arm. It was very hard.
Also, remove the exhaust manifold studs in the head.
 
ya i just had to vent, i have steering link down, box loose car raised, colum loose, engine raised, tranny linkage removed, still just not enough room. engine comes out tonight. it takes me 45 min. to remove a little longer to install my brother is dropping off the cherry picker tonight. so hopefully all goes well. I have to say the quality of the header in pretty good expecialy for the price. It's just driving me crazy i'v had the car have not been able to drive except for the trip home (8 mi) and my brother with his 66 mustang 289 w/ cam intake and holly keep talking trash, he show up at 10pm does a brake stand in the driveway and takes off, i just want to shut him up. I'm hoping my 73 duster 360 cam 2000 stall converter and stick 4 barrel and intake off my 340 will do the trick, hopefully find out on sunday.
 
What part# headers ?
Colum shift ?
Manual or power steering ?
Stock or aftermarket oil pan ?
 
I used headman headers on my Duster and I'm sure that there no easier or harder to install then hooker headers. The directions I got with mine seemed like an idiotic way to do it so after two days I went back read them and they actually worked. What I had to do was undo the steering linkage, unbolt the motor mounts, jack the motor up as high as it could go, then with a four foot metal pry bar actually rotate the engine slightly. The headers had to come from the under side of the car. Now even after all that they still didn't want to just slide in. After alot of swearing and retrying they'll kind of fall into place. Then just repeat for the other side. I've done this twice now in my 73 Duster. The passenger side is alot easier and I'd start there. Good luck...you'll need it.
 
I installed Hookers on my 70 dart. You must drop the above mentioned steering as well as remove the oil filter adapter, starter, linkage, remove the fan shroud and motor mount bolts. Hooker reccomends the car be at least 36 inches off the ground, then jack the motor up against the fire wall. I then used a bottle jack to push the motor to the right then to the left. Have fun...
 
jhkintx said:
I installed Hookers on my 70 dart. You must drop the above mentioned steering as well as remove the oil filter adapter, starter, linkage, remove the fan shroud and motor mount bolts. Hooker reccomends the car be at least 36 inches off the ground, then jack the motor up against the fire wall. I then used a bottle jack to push the motor to the right then to the left. Have fun...
Click to expand...


Its easier at that point to just pukll the motor put the headers in and put the motor back in. Or drop the motor/trayy out of the bottom by unbolting the K frame put the headers on and lower the car back on the K frame.
 
well, i pulled the motor but the headers in and bolted up everything the directions had me take off in 4 hrs last nite way better than the directions way
 
My Hookers were ceramic coated, but started to corrode after ONE year. They have never seen rain, and only have about 200 miles on them. Hooker wouldn't even return my e-mail.

Your Right dazzedduster....Hooker headers SUCK!

My next set will be TTI's
 
I love my hookers only because they cause me to spend so much time with my car. It only takes 2 hours to put in the captive bolt on the passenger side. This let's me spend quality time thinking over things like world peace, cancer studies, and working on my hydrogen fuel cell system. But I think the next time I change the gasket on that side I will think about cold fusion. Just a side hobby.
 
mine were fairly easy and they are wraped i put the driver side header in first and then put the motor in the car and with the draglink and the tierods off the passenger side pretty much put its self on with the motor suspended about two inches off the mounts
 
I had Hookers on my 69 Dart 340. They were a snap to put in! No kiddin' Drop the starter out of the way, along with the drag link and z bar and in like flynn.

The driver side is the most time consuming for sure, but that's because of all the stuff you have to remove. I never had to deal with the steering column or raise the motor or any of the issues that you have had to deal with. Mine were simply plain jane hookers that cleared everything just fine. No issues with the torsion bars because they tucked down along the side of the engine and dumped out by the back of the oil pan.

Sorry to hear about all the hassels. If it's any consolation, I have ceramic coated TTIs on my Dasrt now and they were way harder to install than those Hookers ever were!! And way more cheaper too!!
 
I like my Hooker's.....they dropped right in too.....had to disconnect to usual stuff but they fell right into place and I even have the larger 1 3/4" tubes......of course the slip tube design on #1 helps.
 
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