If you are running the huge Accel, some of those were required to run an Accel supplied ballast IN SERIES WITH the OEM ballast. Ditto the old huge Mallory rectangular coils. I WOULD NOT RUN THEM ANY OTHER WAY than specified.The Accel is definitely massive old school, & came with a BR, so I have not removed it & do not plan too. It has been in this config for 2 years now, & I see not reason to change it. I too was a bit skeptical about not running a ballast & chose not to temp fate.
Thanks for taking the time & effort fleshing out the entire DUI landscape.
In the search for more knowledge, Ive sent an email to Hot Rod magazine asking for clarification, as well as 1 to the seller of my ignition system. Ill share what they say here. Far be it for me to discount the input from the Aussie MOPAR fanatics. Imho, they know more about the Slant Six better then anyone. 
Thru my limited research its not so much the coil that I need to be concerned about, its if the MCU transistor within the Dizzy can handle the full 12 volts(?) I guess the BR is to lower the voltage for the oem points style Dizzy, not the Coil. Several knowledgeable Folks on that other board, have weighed in on their experience & have stood by them that their old Acell super coil which required a BR back then, never once got excessively hot, (which would indicate to me the coil wasnt designed to handle the voltage increase), or failed on them after 2 years of use w/o using a inline BR.I'm not sure what You're talking about here, and I don't think You are either. You stated that You switched to an electronic dizzy & OEM-style 4-pin ECU, this simply means a magnetic reluctor-induced pulse pickup & a std. mech./vacuum advance system, it has nothing to do with that system/dizzy You pictured above. What You picture is an HEI conversion, not an OEM(Mopar) ECU, is what You are running? If so, You would not have a vac canister in the dizzy at all, Hoppy's HEI conversion plates do not block/omit the use of the OE vacuum advance unit. He could tell You more about that.Understood. So the worst case scenario is I have to buy a new coil to replace the fried 1 I bought 30 years ago for $45? lol! Then I should buy a newer coil that can handle to voltage, right?
Good conversation, very informative...
UPDATE: This may have answered my question.. from the HR article. Im going to assume that since my Dizzy still has a vacuum advance, the MCU will not handle the increased voltage....
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Dude, I swear to Christ You look to post here just to be a tool-bag, what Steve posted is correct. THERE IS POWER TO THE POINTS WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION ON POSITION, AND THE POINTS SPEND THE MAJORITY OF THEIR TIME CLOSED, THUS COIL GET HOT &/OR POINTS BURN UP. The OP stated what vehicle & that it was 'stock', but the chance exists it was converted from points ign. to something else w/o the OP being aware, hence RRR's post.....be sure of what You have so We can help You.
What ever you say.....
Hmmmmmm, so when the OP stated that He found the issue to be a bad ign.sw., how could that possibly create a "hot coil" condition..........Massa N. Gill....??
The OP posted the concern in post #1, answered the question of ballast/coil/ign. type in post#3...STOCK.....which means points, Steve's post pointed out the facts I stated above; points & key on......better than 50/50 chance, points closed & coil is energized. Only YOU took Steve's post as a "blanket" statement, He addressed the OP in regards to the OP's car, never said 'all cars/ignitions' anywhere in His short to the "points" post. Now back to watching the water swirl bassackwards for Ya'.
