Hotchkis suspension

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Steve in your photos of your front suspension it looks like you arent using the lower control arm bumpstop. I have seen alot of people delete this. I ask because with my suspension adjusted I have about 3/8 clearance.
 
joes68340s said:
Steve in your photos of your front suspension it looks like you arent using the lower control arm bumpstop. I have seen alot of people delete this. I ask because with my suspension adjusted I have about 3/8 clearance.
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I have 1.14" T-bars and .99" before. I should run those super thin energy poly bump stops. I think they are 3/8 to 1/2 think. Summit has them.

I have about 4 1/2" clearance between the ground and the very bottom of my K-member.

Do you have only 3/8" between the LCA and frame. What is your tire size diameter?

I have a picture of my LCA to frame measurement on this site somewhere. But not on this computer.
 
I have 3/8 between the lower arm and bump stop. Its set up for drag race with drag race torsion bars. I now want to go in a different direction. I have RMS upper control arms wilwood discs. I have heard that the RMS uppers interfere with 17 inch wheels. I also will have to start over with the brakes. I want more street some autocross and eventually track.
 
Do you think you could get away with a smaller sway bar if you ran the earlier LCA with the tabs more outboard? I assume thats the reason for the huge diameter?
 
joes68340s said:
I have 3/8 between the lower arm and bump stop. Its set up for drag race with drag race torsion bars. I now want to go in a different direction. I have RMS upper control arms wilwood discs. I have heard that the RMS uppers interfere with 17 inch wheels. I also will have to start over with the brakes. I want more street some autocross and eventually track.
Click to expand...

You just need the shorter bump stops and 1" or bigger T-bars.

I'm not sure about the RMS A-arm an 17" inch wheels. I assume that is only when you run higher than stock backspacing like 5.0 to 5.25". There is a huge 17" rim thread here on FABO that is very good.
 
Dang Steve! I have pretty much everything you have except from Firm Feel Inc.....I cant wait to get it all together and try it.
70 Duster 408+6 w727. stage 2 PS box. Cal Tracs.
My concern now is with the stock SBP axles....and factory 4 piston disc brakes.....Should I upgrade these too?
Thanks
Kori
 
ShowAndGoResto said:
...70 Duster 408+6 w727. stage 2 PS box. Cal Tracs.
My concern now is with the stock SBP axles....and factory 4 piston disc brakes.....Should I upgrade these too?
Thanks
Kori
Click to expand...

Cal Tracs? Are what rear leaf springs are you running.

The brakes are fine for street stuff. I think you can get good pads from Firm Feel or Tom Quadrini in New York has a place the relines pads with good material.

Are you comming to Spring Fling this year? I think a lot of you Red Deer folks go to Vegas. But I think some are staying and going to Spring Fling for the first time. I'd think you'd have a great time checking out the Speed Festival with all the old Mopars out on the Willow Springs big road course.
 
ShowAndGoResto said:
Dang Steve! I have pretty much everything you have except from Firm Feel Inc.....I cant wait to get it all together and try it.
70 Duster 408+6 w727. stage 2 PS box. Cal Tracs....
Click to expand...

Here's my most current setup...

SUSPENSION

•TORSION BARS: 1.14" 300 Lb./ft wheel rate. Livable, stiff. (stock .87" 109 Lb./ft),
•REAR SPRINGS: Hotchkis w/TVS kit
•73-76 K-member: Reinforced, all joints rewelded, added bracing especially around steering gear
•FRONT SWAY BAR: Hotchkis 1 1/4" hollow. w/TVS kit
•REAR SWAY BAR: Hotchkis hollow and adjustable. w/TVS kit
•SHOCKS: Hotchkis Bilstein. w/TVS kit
•POLYGRAPHITE: sway bar and lower control arm bushings Hotchkis w/TVS kit
•UPPER A-ARM: Hotchkis tubular with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•STRUT ROD: Hotchkis with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•LOWER CONTROL ARM: 73_76 style w/factory sway bars. Added reinforcement straps and rear adjuster clearance tightened.
•STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel
•TIE ROD ASSY: Hotchkis tubular aluminum with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear
•POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty, don't change often, so extra cost is cheap assurance
•POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up.
•Future plans: Adding factory power steering cooler, in-line filter, and braided lines for power steering .

ALIGNMENT

•Toe: 1/16" toe in
•Caster: 5.9 deg. positive
•Camber: 1.5 deg. negative


BODY

•SUBFRAME CONNECTORS: Hotchkis. w/TVS kit
•WEIGHT: 3350 lbs without driver. Be careful referencing to cars that have not been on a scale
•COUPE BODY STYLE: less rear flex, less weight , less weight in rear ( good and bad ), A body Cuda's have very good tire clearences all the way around as compared to other A bodies.
•Future plans: Battery relocated to rear, front air dam, more aluminum drivetrain parts, fiberglass hood

BRAKES

•PADS: Discontinued Mopar Police Spec Semi Metalic units ($15 swap meet score)
•DISKS: 11.75" dia junkyard single piston disks
•BRAKE LINES: braided, w/banjo on caliper end for rear caliper placement
•BRAKE FLUID: Justice Brothers High Performance Dot 4
•MASTER CYLINDER: Mopar Performance alum. 2 bolt, 1-1/32" bore, firm immediate pedal, feels great, not for your grandma. Started with manual drums. Thicker master cly adapter to adj. pedal height down. Be aware of pushrod length.
•PROPORTIONING VALVE: Willwood adjustable, had drum brakes so need some proportioning valve
•DRUMS: vented "bell or hat" drums for cooling
•REAR AXLES: 4 ½" bolt redrilled pattern
•Future plans: AREngineering Brembo 13" dia or similar Willwood, brake ducts

WHEELS

•15x9 4 1/4" backspace Optima Minilites (needed front fender lipping/bending) 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A's ZR all around. (That size is totally discontinued)
Future plans:17x9 with 275/40/17 all the way around

INTERIOR

•STEERING WHEEL: LaCarra 15" padded leather, better grip, small dia. gives more responsive feel ($30 never installed swap meet score)
•SEATS: Used Toyota Celica GTS increased g’s so need better seats, must race car from drivers side
•Future plans: I have one new Scat Pro seat I got for $50 at the swap meet. Would like to find it a mate.
 
joes68340s said:
I have 3/8 between the lower arm and bump stop. Its set up for drag race with drag race torsion bars. I now want to go in a different direction. I have RMS upper control arms wilwood discs. I have heard that the RMS uppers interfere with 17 inch wheels. I also will have to start over with the brakes. I want more street some autocross and eventually track.
Click to expand...


This is the same text I wrote in the "tubular control arms" thread, regarding the RMS UCA's.

I worked with Bill on designing the newer style "V" shaped tubular upper control arms. These new style "V" shaped ones are now the only ones available because the older ones were designed to be used with factory 15" wheels...When you mount a 17" wheel to the older style "U" shaped control arm, at full lock, the 17" wheel would interfere with the control arm. I took note of this and talked with Bill over the phone a few times, and I gave him a few measurements on how they should bend, he applied it, and everything worked fine...So that's why there was the birth of a new control arm. :icon_smi:
 
Yup..alot of simularities Steve...
I have tied the frame, MP prop valve, factory power disc brakes SBP, my K frame is an odd ball replacement part with provisions for either style sway bar but has the old style motor mount pads - welded and powdercoated, Same shocks, 15-7 Alum 5 slots,1/2" wheel studs, Stage 2 PS box with Federal pump...Ya, will add cooler, leaf springs I have are New MP 340 resto which I may or may not add a leaf = ??..Cal Tracs(solid front bushing)
Mancini strut rods, reinforced LCAs, tube uppers, same T bars, FF front and rear sway bars, Mancini driveshaft loop, 498 carrier filled with new Randy's parts, 1971 buckets w/console, large FF tierod kit, More?..Hemi style front leaf reinforement plates....
None of it is bolted on yet so I can change.
408+6 aluminum top end (Edel) Alumin rad and shroud....all rollerized
Rotisserie restored B5 blue body with rear spoiler, will add Ebay front spoiler

Oh, I spyed your profile with the schedule for April.Hmmmmmm... Already ran it past the guys from Calgary I am travelling with. Problem is we plan to leave earlier for MATS and hit the Portland swap meet on the way down...plus the usuall FF, Randy's, Griots,Wildcat,All Trim places along the way....wallet getting lighter after each stop... :-( ......and time?
Kori Alexander
you on Facebook?
 
ShowAndGoResto said:
Yup..alot of simularities Steve...
I have tied the frame, MP prop valve, factory power disc brakes SBP, my K frame is an odd ball replacement part with provisions for either style sway bar but has the old style motor mount pads - welded and powdercoated, Same shocks, 15-7 Alum 5 slots,1/2" wheel studs, Stage 2 PS box with Federal pump...Ya, will add cooler, leaf springs I have are New MP 340 resto which I may or may not add a leaf = ??..Cal Tracs(solid front bushing)
Mancini strut rods, reinforced LCAs, tube uppers, same T bars, FF front and rear sway bars, Mancini driveshaft loop, 498 carrier filled with new Randy's parts, 1971 buckets w/console, large FF tierod kit, More?..Hemi style front leaf reinforement plates....
None of it is bolted on yet so I can change.
408+6 aluminum top end (Edel) Alumin rad and shroud....all rollerized
Rotisserie restored B5 blue body with rear spoiler, will add Ebay front spoiler
Click to expand...

If you are running those 340 resto springs I'd leave them at their current rate/leafs. I don't get a warm and fuzzy about using Cal Tracs for a serious handling setup. Ask Dick at Firm Feel for his opinion on them.

Those Federal pumps are junk. If you ever want to autocross it at a Goodguys event or the like, the Federal pump can't keep up with the rapid steering wheel movements. I had a Federal in my Dart when I got it. I could feel it lagging once in a while when doing quick U-turns and such (Los Angeles). I replaced it with a Saginaw unit, and never had that issue again.

Oh, I spyed your profile with the schedule for April.Hmmmmmm... Already ran it past the guys from Calgary I am travelling with. Problem is we plan to leave earlier for MATS and hit the Portland swap meet on the way down...plus the usuall FF, Randy's, Griots,Wildcat,All Trim places along the way....wallet getting lighter after each stop... :-( ......and time?
Kori Alexander
you on Facebook?
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Well if you do the usual, you're gonna get the usual. If you want to try for more, you'll have to do something different.

Spring Fling swap meet for Mopar parts will make the Portland one look like a joke. And our swap is over three times the Vegas show swap meet. And since Spring Fling swap spaces are much cheaper and we are in the middle of a huge city, we get regular folk getting rid of their extra parts (deals). Not just the professional swappers with thier higher prices. We also do not have a pre day swap setup so all people have an equal chance at getting deals.
 
Autox-

How would you compare your suspension to the high dollar coil stuff(alterk), have you driven one, could they keep up at the track?

Do you think the car would hanlde differently with the springs moved inboard and wider tires? Assuming the same leaf springs are kept.
 
fcm42000 said:
Autox-

How would you compare your suspension to the high dollar coil stuff(alterk), have you driven one, could they keep up at the track?
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Hotchkis had thier E-max Challenger with all the TVS suspension stuff I have at the Motor State Challange this year in Detroit. The other cars were DSE Camaro, Steilow's latest six $ figure Camaro creation, etc, etc, $$$, $$$... Full custom stuff, beyond kits you can buy.

The Hotchkis E-max Challenger was top 2nd in Road Course and 1st in Autocross and the road course out of 90 participants. The Challenger runs high 13 sec 1/4 miles times. The other cars that were faster had 500+ horsepower motors, pretty exotic stuff. The E-max Challenger spotted the 1 car that beat it at least 200 horsepower.

http://www.motorstate.com/msChallenge.htm

Do you think the car would hanlde differently with the springs moved inboard and wider tires? Assuming the same leaf springs are kept.
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When you move the springs in, you lower the roll resistance. How far are we talking? And what is the tire size you are targeting?
 
They were moved in 3 inches to make them flush with the minitubs.

Planning on 315/35 17 or 295/35 18.

I have the drag launch s/s springs, but I am selling those to get something more appropriate, like the hotchkis. I want a modern feel to the car and the s/s springs will be to tall for what I am going for.

I will most likely have a sway bar made for the rear, unless anyone knows of someone who makes them for relocated springs.
 
You're killing me. I need to go to the 'usual' places to restock the shop shelves.
PS pump tip = Thanks. I can use a Saginaw (have one)
The Cal Tracs are highly recommended by the Mopar drag racers, since this will be an all around car...I will be doing some of that (straight-lining) too. And thinking if they help reduce axle hop??
Yes..Lots of Chevy stuff to wade through at Portland but have to do it every couple years...there are tools and other products as well.
Early presale set up days...I'm usually there.:smile:
Will discuss further with the guys I travel with, depends on other factors/work schedules etc....we will see.
You know I'd like to
Kori
 
ShowAndGoResto said:
You're killing me. I need to go to the 'usual' places to restock the shop shelves.
PS pump tip = Thanks. I can use a Saginaw (have one)
The Cal Tracs are highly recommended by the Mopar drag racers, since this will be an all around car...I will be doing some of that (straight-lining) too. And thinking if they help reduce axle hop??
Yes..Lots of Chevy stuff to wade through at Portland but have to do it every couple years...there are tools and other products as well.
Early presale set up days...I'm usually there.:smile:
Will discuss further with the guys I travel with, depends on other factors/work schedules etc....we will see.
You know I'd like to
Kori
Click to expand...

Pomona Swap meet on Sunday April 17, 2011 has just as many vendors as Portland and 30-45 minutes from Spring Fling: http://www.pomonaswapmeet.com/

Wildcat always comes down to our shows. Where do you think he gets his stuff. Same for Ted Stephens and lots of others.

Any of those places have parts that are really going anywhere. New parts are new parts. And not too many "deals" at professional parts yards.

Thing is, Vegas has never been the week before our show. Probably won't happen again. We're a little earlier than normal they are way later than they ever have been. Very rare oppurtunity to take advantage of.
 
fcm42000 said:
They were moved in 3 inches to make them flush with the minitubs.

Planning on 315/35 17 or 295/35 18.

I have the drag launch s/s springs, but I am selling those to get something more appropriate, like the hotchkis. I want a modern feel to the car and the s/s springs will be to tall for what I am going for.

I will most likely have a sway bar made for the rear, unless anyone knows of someone who makes them for relocated springs.
Click to expand...

The roll resistance will go down with the spring move. That same amount needs to be made up/added in the rear anti roll bar resistance. Just need to calc the difference.
 
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