How do I know I've found a valuable Cuda?

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Lifted07

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Im looking for a Cuda to fix up or that is pretty well fixed up and just needs interior and small things.

I came across a 1973 Cuda with a 440 and a 727 tranny I think it is. It's in excellent shape, the engine bay is like a 8/10. He's wanting $25k for it.

Are 73 Cudas a sought after Cuda? And what do I look for in the VIN to tell me exactly what this car is and if the guy just dropped a 440 in it when it was really a small V8. I have no clue really.

Thats why Im on here asking for help on how can I tell and what am I looking for

Oh yea, whats a A body and B body?
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No big blocks in E bodies after 1971 period.So it has to be a slant 6 car or a smallblock car.If it is a 'Cuda it will be a 318 or 340 car.What is the vin tag numbers and does it have a fender tag.The 72-74 'Cudas bring pretty good money nowadays.Post more info and pics and maybe we can give you a opinion.
 
Oh and I can tell you your not going to be able to buy that car for $25k and flip it and make money.In my opinion if I spent more than 23K on a 72-74 'Cuda I would look for a 70-71 first.
 
"8 out of 10" in whose opinion? Is that documented or just your own opinion?
 
Oh yea, whats a A body and B body?


A-Body

1963-1966 Valiant, 1964-1969 Barracuda, 1963-1976 Dart, All Duster, Demon, Sport, Scamp, Swinger

B-Body

GTX, R/T, Belvedere, SuperBird, Daytona, Coronet, Satellite, Road Runner, Charger, Super Bee, Cordoba, 1962-1964 Polara, 1962-1964 Sport Fury/Fury, 1962-1964 330/440, 1962-1964 Savoy, 1976-1978 Fury, 1977-1978 Monaco, 1978-1979 Magnum

C-Body

Full size Chrysler models: New Yorker, Newport, Imperial ('74-'75), 300, Town & Country, Full size Dodge & Plymouth models: monaco (to 1976), 1965-1975 Fury/Sport Fury, 1965-1975 Polara

D-Body

1955-1973 Imperial

E-Body

1970-1974 Barracuda and Challenger

F-Body

1976-1980 Volare and Aspen, Road Runner and R/T

J-Body

1980-1983 Mirada and Cordoba

M-Body

1977-1988 Diplomat, LeBaron, Gran Fury, Fifth Avenue
 
those pictures are what 9 years old? does the car still look like that??

no way is it an original 440 car. is it a real "cuda"? or is it just a barracuda? there is a difference.

someone ruined that hood putting the hood pins in the wrong location..
 
If you want a valuable Cuda, then you need to look at 70 & 71 with either 426 Hemi, 440 6 pack, or 340 six pack and expect to pay alot of money....
 
First off that 73 is nice looking.

I would definitely have it looked over by somebody with the knowledge and skills to spot excess rust, bondo and sub standard work before parting with hard earned money.

Regarding your question. All E bodies are popular models, the 70 and 71 are probably the most highly sought after by model year. The later models you will usually find are more reasonably priced.

The vin# can actual provide the information your seeking regarding the original engine size. Below is how the vin# decodes on a 73 model year car. Other years can be found to by doing a google search for mopar vehicle identification number decoding.

The fender tag in the engine compartment can also be decode if it is still in place to give more precise information on how the car was out fitted from the factory and options.

1973 Codes:

First digit = car line

B - Plymouth Barracuda ("E" Body)

C - Chrysler All ("C" body)

D - Dodge Polara, Monaco ("C" body)

J - Dodge Challenger ("E" Body)

L - Dodge Dart, Dart Sport ("A" Body)

P - Plymouth Fury ("C" body)

R - Plymouth Satellite, Sebring ("B" body)

V - Plymouth Valiant, Duster, Scamp ("A" body)

W - Dodge Charger, Coronet ("B" body)

Y - Imperial LeBaron ("C" body)



Second digit = Price class

L - Low

M - Medium

H - High

P - Premium

S - Special

K - Police

T - Taxi

G - Dodge Taxi



Third and fourth digits = body style

21 - 2 door coupe

23 - 2 door hardtop

29 - 2 door sports hardtop

41 - 4 door sedan

43 - 4 door hardtop

45 - 6 passenger station wagon

46 - 9 passenger station wagon



Fifth digit = engine

B - 198 1-1BBL 6 Cylinder "G" engine

C - 225 1-1BBL 6 Cylinder "RG" engine

E - Special Order 6 Cylinder engine

G - 318 1-2BBL 8 Cylinder "LA" engine

H - 340 1-4BBL 8 Cylinder "LA" engine (High Performance)

K - 360 1-2BBL 8 Cylinder "LA" engine

M - 400 1-2BBL 8 Cylinder "B" engine

P - 400 1-4BBL 8 Cylinder "B" engine (High Performance)

T - 440 1-4BBL 8 Cylinder "RB" engine

U - 440 1-4BBL 8 Cylinder "RB" engine (High Performance)

Z - Special Order 8 Cylinder engine



Sixth digit = model year

3 - 1973



Seventh Digit = Assembly Plant

A - Lynch Road, Michigan

B - Hamtramck, Michigan

C - Jefferson, Michigan

D - Belvedere, Illinois

F - Newark, Delaware

G - St. Louis, Missouri

R - Windsor, Ontario, Canada
 
Looking at the pics it seems to be a pretty nice car. It has been listed on craigs for quite awhile now. Probably since July of last year when the pics were taken.
It isn't a 'cuda just a nice Barracuda. Can't tell if it has had the rally dash put in it from the pics or if it still had the standard dash in it.
 
No 440 cars in 73.
I can tell you it will be a blast to drive
if it has been put together right.
Mine was a 340 car and was one of
the most fun cars I ever owned.
Picture that car in red, jacked up with
10" Ansons, M50's and skinnies on the front.

Startin to chub just thinkin bout it!
 
If you are looking for value, keep looking. I know where there is a rust free B5 blue 73 318 cuda w perfect interior for $7500. Paint and 440 you got the same car... For $25 k id be looking for a 70-71 JMO.... If you find a 71 hemi 4 speed Cuda convertible it is valuable.
 
In that year you want a "BS" in the first two spots of the VIN. That's the 'Cuda or Challenger Ralley of the E body line in '72-'74. IIRC you can have a 318 2bbl 'Cuda in 73 or 74 but the real money will be in 340-4 ('72-3) or 360-4 ('74). All three years look identical so you want to check your numbers.
IMO it's a far cry from $25K just looking at the bodywork. There should be one basic body line - that car has one on the fender, one on the door, and another wavvy one on the 1/4.
 
In that year you want a "BS" in the first two spots of the VIN. That's the 'Cuda or Challenger Ralley of the E body line in '72-'74. IIRC you can have a 318 2bbl 'Cuda in 73 or 74 but the real money will be in 340-4 ('72-3) or 360-4 ('74). All three years look identical so you want to check your numbers.
IMO it's a far cry from $25K just looking at the bodywork. There should be one basic body line - that car has one on the fender, one on the door, and another wavvy one on the 1/4.

That's a good eye on the body line. Could be a shadow from a structure behind the picture taker though.

I think the car looks nice as it sets, wheels and all but this is definitely not a valuable or rare car. I would say it's more of a car you may have always dreamed of owning. A big 440 E body! I have no ideal on value of it. To me the value would mostly be decided by the quality of the paint, body and parts that are on the car. Could be worth 25K if nicely built although cars usually always look better in pictures than in person.
 
If you are looking for value, keep looking. I know where there is a rust free B5 blue 73 318 cuda w perfect interior for $7500. Paint and 440 you got the same car... For $25 k id be looking for a 70-71 JMO.... If you find a 71 hemi 4 speed Cuda convertible it is valuable.
But watch out for clones, if not done right they will be a BIG problem.
 
I really like how the hood pins are in the wrong location. That shows perfect attention to no detail.
 
Hi Lifted07,

Hey not trying to slam you here, but you seem like you are new to old Mopars. IMO the best thing to do before you drop a big chunk of change is to: 1) do some research and reading to get spun up on old Mopars and; 2) make friends with someone who already is and take them with you when you go shopping. There are some really great cars out there in the same price range as that '73. However, there are also an equal amount of nightmares out there too just looking for an unsuspecting buyer. Like I said, not trying to slam you, just trying to help you protect your a$$ets and get your money's worth when you do plunk down a large chunk of change.
 
Check out for e bodies only. Not as buzy as here but may be some cuda gurus there. But all in all whats been said here is good info.
 
How do I know I've found a valuable Cuda?


The spark plug wires will go to the center of the valve covers.....
 

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