How do I pick a TC??

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That sounds like old technology. I ordered a converter from Lenny at Ultimate Converter Concepts and he asked about my current torque converter which was a 3500 stall. I told him the RPM raises before the car moves and it feels like a manual transmission. His response, that's old technology. With my specs given he recommended a 9 1/2 inch 5200 stall and told me I will never even notice it has a big stall when driving around town. He also told me when I put it in gear at idle the car will move. He was absolutely correct. The new technology in torque converters is night and day with the old. I would call Lenny and give as much info as you can. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up with a 4000+ stall. Good luck!

bingo.

i have had two dynamic convertors and been very happy with them.

current one is a 9.5" and flashes to like 3800 if i remember correctly in our dart with a mild 360 and 3.23 gears. i out it around town quite often and you would never know it isnt a stock convertor.
 
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Then you've not driven a modern converter. You can get a modern converter that will flash to 5000 RPM and drive around town locked up at around 1500 so you can lope around town to get groceries and ice cream. Take it to the strip, stall it up at the light and launch at 5000 RPM. Converter technology is in a completely different place than you describe now.


You can say this until your teeth wear out and some guys just can’t grasp it’s not 1979 any more. Or 1988. Or even 2000.

Converter technology has improved so much that it’s crazy.
 
You can say this until your teeth wear out and some guys just can’t grasp it’s not 1979 any more. Or 1988. Or even 2000.

Converter technology has improved so much that it’s crazy.
Yup. People remember whatever they tried last. If they've not tried modern technology, then they don't know about it.
 
Oh and you should not overlook Edge Converters, either. They make a really nice product and offer one hell of a warranty with it.
 
FWIW, here's just my example...thought I'd state some simple facts.

My avatar car, with the 8" TC that stalls at 5000, does not have a speedo. So I use the tach as my speedo.

Cruising at 2000 rpm in 3rd gear (727 trans) is 40 mph in my car per multiple GPS phone apps. If you instead calculate it by math, with the 4.10 gear and 28" tall tires, 2000 rpm computes to 40.65 mph. That is plenty close on accuracy for me and shows that the TC is not sloppy and slipping away! And yes, I have to keep my foot on the brake at a stoplight to hold the car in place (my cam is 251/255@050 so it idles at about 900 rpm).

Pulling away from a stoplight, you would not know it's a loose converter. Perhaps if I stared at the tach in this car and one with a stock converter (like my other car - the 340 Demon), I would see the difference but there is really no perception of the beast of a TC that is there waiting to be unleashed. When at the track, I hold the launch rpm at 2000-2400 at the light. When the light comes down and I stomp it, it flashes to the 5000 rpm point. Joyful!!

Now if you were to put this TC in some heavy truck or pulling a trailer, you probably would not like it as the slip might be excessive. But in a car like mine, or from what we saw of the OPS car, slip would not be an issue at all. (I reiterate that again, knowing what I know and heard of the OPS car, I'd still say something in the 3800-4000 point would be better and put a smile on his face.)

Now I will say that when I was trying to decide on a TC, member @Oldmanmopar had posted some things about his orange Duster with an 8" high stall converter. His info convinced me and I spent the coin to get this ATI Treemaster. And glad I did!!
 
Good job getting the idle into the basement! like that.
I couldn’t get it to idle under 1k and gave up and took it to an old school mechanic.
What was the mph, car weight, and elevation of the track? These numbers can be translated into horsepower. From the power numbers and weight, an approximate fastest ET can be generated. Then you just have to spend,spend,spend, to get close to it.
Not sure if the weight but my best guess is around 3500 with me in it. I was hitting mid 14s at 97-98 mph. 30’ above sea level. 3.23 gears, 14” wheels, manifolds. I have not ran it since gear swap, headers, exhaust, carb, larger rear wheels and SS spring upgrades. Car doesn’t come alive until around 3500+/- RPM. My next upgrades are a TC and aluminum heads. Possibly/eventually a cam, too. Just lookin for a solid 12 second car to terrorize the neighborhood with. But right now, she’s a dog under 3k rpm
 
FWIW, here's just my example...thought I'd state some simple facts.

My avatar car, with the 8" TC that stalls at 5000, does not have a speedo. So I use the tach as my speedo.

Cruising at 2000 rpm in 3rd gear (727 trans) is 40 mph in my car per multiple GPS phone apps. If you instead calculate it by math, with the 4.10 gear and 28" tall tires, 2000 rpm computes to 40.65 mph. That is plenty close on accuracy for me and shows that the TC is not sloppy and slipping away! And yes, I have to keep my foot on the brake at a stoplight to hold the car in place (my cam is 251/255@050 so it idles at about 900 rpm).

Pulling away from a stoplight, you would not know it's a loose converter. Perhaps if I stared at the tach in this car and one with a stock converter (like my other car - the 340 Demon), I would see the difference but there is really no perception of the beast of a TC that is there waiting to be unleashed. When at the track, I hold the launch rpm at 2000-2400 at the light. When the light comes down and I stomp it, it flashes to the 5000 rpm point. Joyful!!

Now if you were to put this TC in some heavy truck or pulling a trailer, you probably would not like it as the slip might be excessive. But in a car like mine, or from what we saw of the OPS car, slip would not be an issue at all. (I reiterate that again, knowing what I know and heard of the OPS car, I'd still say something in the 3800-4000 point would be better and put a smile on his face.)

Now I will say that when I was trying to decide on a TC, member @Oldmanmopar had posted some things about his orange Duster with an 8" high stall converter. His info convinced me and I spent the coin to get this ATI Treemaster. And glad I did!!
Once you've had a modern converter, there's just no going back, is there? Were Vixen not a manual transmission car and I didn't love the heck out of it, I'd build a badass automatic for it.
 
What rpm do you shift at when matted? Where do the rpm’s drop to going into 2nd and 3rd?
 
I agree that the new convertor technology is light years better than the older convertors.
But I would have no problem using a Turbo action convertor OOTB.
The best off the shelve convertor ever made.
 
I agree that the new convertor technology is light years better than the older convertors.
But I would have no problem using a Turbo action convertor OOTB.
The best off the shelve convertor ever made.
It's entirely possible an off the shelf converter can work, but that's why my first advice was to CALL some converter companies and they can tell him what's best.
 
I couldn’t get it to idle under 1k and gave up and took it to an old school mechanic.

Not sure if the weight but my best guess is around 3500 with me in it. I was hitting mid 14s at 97-98 mph. 30’ above sea level. 3.23 gears, 14” wheels, manifolds. I have not ran it since gear swap, headers, exhaust, carb, larger rear wheels and SS spring upgrades. Car doesn’t come alive until around 3500+/- RPM. My next upgrades are a TC and aluminum heads. Possibly/eventually a cam, too. Just lookin for a solid 12 second car to terrorize the neighborhood with. But right now, she’s a dog under 3k rpm

Mid 14s is about right for 97/98mph. But that's what stock 340s ran, back in the day, @3330pounds; which is what my 70Dart scaled with me in it. lol. I ran at 660ft. That makes my Dart about 240hp.

At 3600# your was making about 260.
If you went thru the traps in Second gear, that would be around 6300.
If you went thru in Third, that should have been about 4300.
In both cases that's a good 1000 rpm off the mark, one low, and the other high; which would explain the low power that the Wallace Calculator kicks out.

With 4.10s, your speed will go up because now you will trap more appropriately, increasing your average horsepower. Say she hits 102@5750 in Third. That would translate to 295hp. and
That should get you into the 12s all by itself.
 
If I had a relatively hot 340, or anything else, and wanted the car to be fast and streetable, I wouldnt even think about a convertor under 4500.
My( admittedly very healthy) stock stroke 318 with under 10.5 compression( and a cam in the 230’s at 50) loved a tight 5k vert. Drove it literally everywhere, including the track.
Many people seem to not have a clue regards where convertor technology has come.
Any healthy 340 will respond favorably to a “ real” convertor.
Years ago I went the 3000 stall, then 3800 stall 10 inch stuff. Never again
They slip more, and are doggier than a good 8 inch….by a lot.
 
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If I had a relatively hot 340, or anything else, and wanted the car to be fast and streetable, I wouldnt even think about a convertor under 4500.
My( admittedly very healthy) stock stroke 318 with under 10.5 compression( and a cam in the 230’s at 50) loved a tight 5k vert. Drove it literally everywhere, including the track.
Many people seem to not have a clue regards where convertor technology has come.
Any healthy 340 will respond favorably to a “ real” convertor.
Years ago I went the 3000 stall, then 3800 stall 10 inch stall stuff. Never again
They slip more, and are doggier than a good 8 inch….by a lot.
Have you ever used a J convertor in a strip combo?
We used them behind our big blocks, damn good strip convertor on the brake, it's too bad they are discontinued.
 
Have you ever used a J convertor in a strip combo?
We used them behind our big blocks, damn good strip convertor on the brake, it's too bad they are discontinued.

got several guys I know who use/ have used those old Turbo Action units. They work good. Probably better than anything then out there
 
I have no idea of my cam specs. And neither does the guy that put it together! He just knows it’s a comp cam, bored .30 over, x heads (will be upgrading to aluminum) RPM performer intake, 750 dp, 340 small block. 4.10 gears, 8 3/4 rear, sure grip, 727.

but how can I pick out a torque converter if I don’t know the cam specs?? Someone please point me in the right direction. I like to putt around town, drop the hammer every time no one is around and run it at the strip a handful of times a year. Thanks!
Two ways to find the cam specs;
1: timing wheel and dial indicator to get seat to seat degrees, 0.050 degrees, LCA and valve lift.
2: remove the timing cover. Most cams have the grind number stamped on the end.
Then you can talk to a converter manufacturer for their recommendation.
 
If you don't know what the specs of the cam are and the mechanic don't know the specs are how are you going to dail that cam in, you have to use a dail indicator or that engine will never run at it's full potential, you have to reach true top dead center, you can feel the piston come up with your hand and think it's up all the way but 1 or 2 degrees makes a BIG difference.
 
If you don't know what the specs of the cam are and the mechanic don't know the specs are how are you going to dail that cam in, you have to use a dail indicator or that engine will never run at it's full potential, you have to reach true top dead center, you can feel the piston come up with your hand and think it's up all the way but 1 or 2 degrees makes a BIG difference.
Using a vacuum gauge and a timing light. It's very simple.
 
I asked the FABO Community about a stall converter about ten months ago for my 360 magnum 1974 Duster, And my cam is no where as big as yours, and they suggested 3500 to 4200 stall converter I put a 9.5” 3600 stall in it and what a improvement. My car runs mid 12s with 9.1 Compression ratio and I have 3:91 gears with a 727 transmission. These guys are good at what they do, and they give good advice. By the way I wish I would have gotten a 4200 stall. Just make sure it’s tight for the street. I don’t know what cam I have Either, so I will be using some of that information that was given on the post before mine. your car has a lot of potential.
 
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Just make sure it’s tight for the street.

That right there ^^^^^ is what's most important. But you have to TELL the converter company that's what you want. Glad yours worked out.
 
That right there ^^^^^ is what's most important. But you have to TELL the converter company that's what you want. Glad yours worked out.


Thank you RustyRatRod. I was one of those old school street racer and a 3000 stall slipped like a pig on the street, it’s amazing what stall you can run with today’s technology in torque converters. I had mine built on the West Coast from Dice Torque Converters and it is a 9.5” converter that flashes at 3600 rpm, I told them what I wanted after filling out a tech card for what my combination is. I’m glad I sent back My off the shelf TCI converter that I had bought. The Dice converter cost more, about $800 but well worth it.

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Thank you RustyRatRod. I was one of those old school street racer and a 3000 stall slipped like a pig on the street, it’s amazing what stall you can run with today’s technology in torque converters. I had mine built on the West Coast from Dice Torque Converters and it flashes 3600, I told them what I wanted after filling out a tech card for what my combination is. I’m glad I sent back My off the shelf TCI converter that I had bought. It cost more but well worth it.

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Hell yeah! You just cannot preach it to some folks. I'm glad you learned it!
 
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