Whats wrong with mini vans
I was going to buy one just to drive my kid to school ....he would hate me for it ...mini vans saved mopar
How does this bearing look ?
- Thread starter mbaird
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I was going to buy one just to drive my kid to school ....he would hate me for it ...mini vans saved mopar
The carmel color you are mentioning is most likely copper... Copper is a common second layer material for tri metal bearings...
To me the tang was too wide... or the anchor slot that it fits into is too narrow preventing the bearing shell from seating properly in the rear main cap... This put less clearance to the crank and maybe metal to metal contact with the crank and bearing in that area and it wore the first layer of the bearing material off and onto the second layer of bearing material...
The first layer of bearing material on a bearing is designed to be softer than the crank so it takes the brunt of the force to try to protect the crank journal... The bearing takes the beating to reduce the wear on the crank... It's easier to replace the bearing than cut the crank... If the crank gets too worn to where you can't cut it, then you need to replace the crank...
You could be right. That begs the question did it have the correct main bearings installed? I wonder of there's a difference in the tang width on some years?
Either the anchor slots in the bearing was too wide, the anchor slot in the main cap was too narrow, or most likely the bearing shell was not properly seated (off location) when they put the engine together...
Then when they torqued the main, it crushed the bearing and anchor slot spread out and got wider...
I have an example of an off location bearing from when my son and I were building his 360... Give me some time to dig back into my picture file and try to find some pictures to explain what most likely happened...
When we were installing one of the rods, the bearing slipped off location and the anchor slot got crushed... The bearing did not seat properly and when we torqued the rod cap, it oval shaped the rod bore and created an interference between the rod bearing and crank.. This interference made the crank tight where it took alot of force to turn...
Knowing the crank was too tight, we started loosening rods in pairs to see which ones freed the crank... We found the offending rod and looked at it... This is the two bearing shells from that rod.. No run time, just turning the crank on the stand a few turns made the copper show at the top of the radius, and scored the bearing shells near the parting lines...
Look at the anchor slots here, you can see where ti was completely flattened on one side and crushed on the other...
Look at the material scoring on the parting edges of the bearings...
Knowing the crank was too tight, we started loosening rods in pairs to see which ones freed the crank... We found the offending rod and looked at it... This is the two bearing shells from that rod.. No run time, just turning the crank on the stand a few turns made the copper show at the top of the radius, and scored the bearing shells near the parting lines...
Look at the anchor slots here, you can see where ti was completely flattened on one side and crushed on the other...
Look at the material scoring on the parting edges of the bearings...
The force of the interference spread the rod bore making it out of round to where we ordered another bearing and it would not stay in the bore because the bore diameter was so far off the bearing did not have the proper bearing crush to keep it in the rod anymore... It fucked up our rod and we had to replace it with another one and re-plastic gauge and put it back together...
The crank was fine because it only had a few turns when the rod bearing was crushed...
But as you can see with that little turning, it even wore through the first layer of bearing material on the top of the radius where the out of round was the worst...
The crank was fine because it only had a few turns when the rod bearing was crushed...
But as you can see with that little turning, it even wore through the first layer of bearing material on the top of the radius where the out of round was the worst...
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The next question is where did the material go that wore off the bearing???
Is it in the other bearings, the cam bearings, oil passages, oil pan???
It's not in the oil filter because the filter is before the main bearing feed...
My concern is that there may be metal bearing shavings in the oil passages, cam bearings, anything that the oil feeds after the rear main is where I would recommend looking... I would have to look up the oil feed path to figure out where it could have gone...
You need to clean that all out before running the engine again or you will have problem later...
It doesn't take much to get a tight crank... A piece of dirt, lint, or even one thread off of a cotton glove on the contact surface or even on the back of the bearing between the shell and cap can make the bearing tight... I saw it periodically in the engine factory... The workers that installed the pistons were not allowed to wear cotton gloves because of this, they had to wear non-shedding rubber gloves...You wouldn't believe what can cause a tight crank, even a piece of hair behind the bearing shell could do it... You would see marks on the bearing where the contamination was, whether on or behind the shell... That's why you have to have clean hands when installing bearings and no other contamination nearby... Bearing clearances are very tight and it doesn't take much to cause an interference...
We had a machine on the engine assembly line that would turn the crank and check the torque to turn, and if it was too tight it would be sent into a repair hole/station to be fixed... I was the guy they called to find out what was happening when the repairman started getting a rash of too many tight cranks... He would tell me what he was finding and I had to root cause what was causing it...
Is it in the other bearings, the cam bearings, oil passages, oil pan???
It's not in the oil filter because the filter is before the main bearing feed...
My concern is that there may be metal bearing shavings in the oil passages, cam bearings, anything that the oil feeds after the rear main is where I would recommend looking... I would have to look up the oil feed path to figure out where it could have gone...
You need to clean that all out before running the engine again or you will have problem later...
It doesn't take much to get a tight crank... A piece of dirt, lint, or even one thread off of a cotton glove on the contact surface or even on the back of the bearing between the shell and cap can make the bearing tight... I saw it periodically in the engine factory... The workers that installed the pistons were not allowed to wear cotton gloves because of this, they had to wear non-shedding rubber gloves...You wouldn't believe what can cause a tight crank, even a piece of hair behind the bearing shell could do it... You would see marks on the bearing where the contamination was, whether on or behind the shell... That's why you have to have clean hands when installing bearings and no other contamination nearby... Bearing clearances are very tight and it doesn't take much to cause an interference...
We had a machine on the engine assembly line that would turn the crank and check the torque to turn, and if it was too tight it would be sent into a repair hole/station to be fixed... I was the guy they called to find out what was happening when the repairman started getting a rash of too many tight cranks... He would tell me what he was finding and I had to root cause what was causing it...
The 4” crank is on its way .
I will strip the block and have it hot tanked , bored , line honed and new bearings.
Now I need to figure out the crank balance . I was hoping to use the stock rods , balancer and flex plate . Weighed the pistons , pins and rings last night … all came within 1 gram of 694 . I am hoping I can polish a set of Magnum rod beams and get the weight down enough to use them . But by the time I have them reconditioned and bushed I might be better off buying new .
I will strip the block and have it hot tanked , bored , line honed and new bearings.
Now I need to figure out the crank balance . I was hoping to use the stock rods , balancer and flex plate . Weighed the pistons , pins and rings last night … all came within 1 gram of 694 . I am hoping I can polish a set of Magnum rod beams and get the weight down enough to use them . But by the time I have them reconditioned and bushed I might be better off buying new .
mygasser
Well-Known Member
and i'm 12? lol. it definately fits you metaphorically speaking. several here have said it before you really don't come across as old as you say. more like a millennial it seems, you want everything spoon fed as you can't be bothered to do your own research and the snowflake attitude of you are owed an apology from someone who was mean to you. if you can't take a bit of banter go back to the minivan forums. if you like it BUY A MOPAR!!! how many more times can that be said before you fulfill you're 'alleged' desire to own one.
When you get the new bearings, check the rear main and see if the anchor slot in the bearing will fit into the rear main cap... If the new bearing fits the rear main cap, then that will point out that the problem was that the bearing was off location when they tightened the rear main and it crushed the bearing and the anchor slots in the rear main cap and bearing shell are good and fit properly...
Then make sure to plastic gauge the bearings when you assemble to make sure everything is good...
I would like to see what the back of that shell looks like
They was ME if I remember correctly.
That's a very wide/fat nose on those lobes...
Keeps the valve waaaay open for a while...
Minivans are super functional.
Would people stop using power tools because it might make you look weak ?
My jerk kid would
Just to make fun
Just to make fun
lilcuda
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Nope. That is copper. It’s the layer that is underneath the thin top layer. See pic for an example of the various layers.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
No track marks from hard carbon is good. I more commonly see that in the rod bearings, so best to check them while in-there. Several times I have changed all rod bearings but not the main bearings since they look pristine (all silver coating), though admit I have judged that by just the rear main which hold the rear crank seal (SB & BB, not slant and Hemi). Your bearing is still serviceable since there are several more wear layers below. Might last another 200K miles, but buy a set to have on hand. Hope you know that you can change them from below with the crankshaft in the car (push upper shell around).
I found that hard-core racers sometimes change just one side of the rod bearings, and after each drag pass, using special bearings with a harder surface. I found after I picked up a set of BB rod bearings cheap at a liquidator and researched. Found very valuable PN for racing, so flipped on ebay for a profit. With >1000 HP, oil gets squished out of the rod bearing so the thrust side (top) sees metal-metal contact (bad).
I found that hard-core racers sometimes change just one side of the rod bearings, and after each drag pass, using special bearings with a harder surface. I found after I picked up a set of BB rod bearings cheap at a liquidator and researched. Found very valuable PN for racing, so flipped on ebay for a profit. With >1000 HP, oil gets squished out of the rod bearing so the thrust side (top) sees metal-metal contact (bad).
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Uhhh...
Your sentence is misleading. The copper is the 3rd layer according to this picture.
NC Engine Builder
Grumpy Old Man
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The picture he posted is a general representation of a bearing. Not all bearings have the coating that is the top layer in that example.
.618 lift with a 1.5 rocker and .659 with a 1.6.
Casca 2525
Well-Known Member
Ii have a 318, runs, but is 2 brl carb, needs tear down, I got it running, and booked it home it's a dog, it wouldn't hit 50mph with the pedal on the floor, not surehow far away from each other we live, but I hope $50 is a fair price for a 318 core
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
If that’s an offer for me, I appreciate it but no thank you. Ive given away my last 4 complete, running, 318s.
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