how far can i move rear springs inboard with out geometry problems?

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Cope

Fusing with fire
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I have the steele on the way for my cage and now i have some questions.

I need to move the rear frame sections in to fit the big slicks and I want to tie the cage into the rear frame, so all this has to happen at the same time.

so how far can i move in the springs before i need to go four link and coil overs?

Rear tire is 28-15.50-16, so im moving the frame in quite a bit...

Thanks for all the time and advice.
 
dose anyone make rear frame rails (cut to length) or should i just make em?
 

but thats coilover, what happens with springs...

Thanks for the pic.

I like it!

plasma vs Dart gonna be soon...
 
but thats coilover, what happens with springs...

Thanks for the pic.

I like it!

plasma vs Dart gonna be soon...

we moved the rear springs inside the frame when we tubbed a 66 satellite. that`s quite a bit bigger car tho. we could run any kind of slick made back then, had 16x32.5 firestones on it for a while, and still had light yrs of room !~had the outside fender wells swelled about 2" too, before the spring job. :wack:
 
I can't believe we don't have more fabricators on here helping you out.

AND I AM NOT ONE OF THEM! But it seam to me that in the Mother Mopar Chassis Book that if you didn't tie into at least a portion of the rear frame segment that it had some weird handling problem. Don't remember the exact wording of it. and Hay it was back when it was call Direct connection!!!!

If your Back Halfing it, then none of this would apply.
 
If you are going that narrow it sounds like back halving is the solution which means coil overs. By the time you cut and move the stock rails you will be time and $$$ ahead. You might start a thread with who is running 15.50 wide rear tires and see what pops up....
 
are the tires 15.5" sidewall or tread width? need to know sidewall. I would buy framerails, even if U have to buy universal, call around, some company probably still makes them for a dart. my springs are under the stock duster frame rails and it handles fine.
 
are the tires 15.5" sidewall or tread width? need to know sidewall. I would buy framerails, even if U have to buy universal, call around, some company probably still makes them for a dart. my springs are under the stock duster frame rails and it handles fine.

What tires are you running Marco?
 
Make your own. Fish plates where you weld two pieces together. Most important to not lose the rear end position. Way back on mine i left the front sprig hangers in place. I positioned the new rails by running a steel bar through all four spring hangers. This positively located the rear axle. Then just slide the new rails in or out to where you want. Best to have the wheels and tires in place at this time. And put the springs under the rails.
 
Just find a parts car with good rear rails, cut them out and sandblast and straighten flanges. No need to reinvent something that's already sitting under thousands of cars in salvage yards.
 
I'm not sure why you don't just back half it. Coil overs and ladder bars will be 1/2 the weight if not lighter, adjustable, and safer at high speed.
Personally, if you have to move the framerails in for clearance, unless a rule says you have to have factory rails, toss them and put a more solid foundation in.
 
A-BODY MOPAR
Duster, Dart &
Dart Sport
'67-'69 Cuda,
2x3.........$282.95 pr

Autoweld has these formed rear frame rails.
 
You know I don't know crap, but the kind of power and speed your aiming for seems a bit much for leaf springs.
 
You know I don't know crap, but the kind of power and speed your aiming for seems a bit much for leaf springs.

There are cars running in the 4.40's in the 1/8 on leaf springs and on 275 Drag Radials.
 
Thanks guys.

I most likely will just buy or make new rails.
My.fear was the springs being so close like IQ says, seems like the axle wont have enough support but then even the coil overs would be close together so not sure if it 6 of one half a dozen of the other.

I will be running a rear anti sway bar to try and help.

Thanks for the places to buy rails.
I should have the car here in a few weeks amd i will post a bunch of pics as it gets transformed...
 
I was gonna just make it (non rubber mount) with hemi joints.
With the axle so short I figure every little bit will help?
 
I was gonna just make it (non rubber mount) with hemi joints.
With the axle so short I figure every little bit will help?

You may be able to find some circle track stuff with splines and splined arms that will be narrow enough. Check out Speedway Motors.
 
My leaf springs are 19 inches apart on my D50. I am running stock leafs and home made Caltrac bars. 1.33 60ft. so far NA on pump gas, small block,2950 lbs. No problems so far.
 
The difference is tubular arms only move with the heim joint. Leaf springs will wiggle as the segments wrap. I wouldn't use them myself if I had to drive it but have fun and show us how it does.
 
Problem is money is running out fast, yeah I realise shoestring budget and race car = BAD THINGS...

I may be able to weasel my way into some coil overs but most likely i will just use my SS springs for a while. I dont plan on running crazy fast on the first day out. i wanna ease into it..

This is my first (or second) high speed build pending on what car gets done first, so Im all ears and want to play it safe.

Thanks again for the time and advice.
 
Problem is money is running out fast, yeah I realise shoestring budget and race car = BAD THINGS...

I may be able to weasel my way into some coil overs but most likely i will just use my SS springs for a while. I dont plan on running crazy fast on the first day out. i wanna ease into it..

This is my first (or second) high speed build pending on what car gets done first, so Im all ears and want to play it safe.

Thanks again for the time and advice.
Easing into it sounds like a great plan and I'm sure with your resources in advance Welding and Fabrication skills you'll have that frame rail stuff under wraps in no time. Keep On Keepin On.....
:thumbup:
 
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