How long is a slant?

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grumpuscreature

grumpuscreature

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Will it fit in an engine bay that is 32" from firewall to radiator support? Width is not an issue...
 
just measured the 225 sitting on a dolly in the shop...
approx. 32" from back of block to pump snout.
 
Thank you Jimacuda. That's what I needed to know. I was already planning to offset the radiator...
 
Don't hold your breath. This is going to be a long, slow process. Got the idea this summer. The little town I live in has an informal cruise in every Friday night at the courthouse. Folks drive their whatever down and park in the square, pop the hood, and sit around until dark shooting the bull. People driving by will stop and check out whatever catches their eye and a general good time is had by all, but. There is no excitement since all that shows up is the usual collection of GM belly buttons, various Mustangs, big block B bodies (3), and a couple ho hum street rods. The hits this summer was a '53 Olds Rocket (cool) and a V8 Ranger (ratty and rusty but drew a crowd). Gonna do this purely for the freak value. I have a '97 Ranger that is a good 10 footer but the 4 banger is starting to wheeze. Thought I might do something under the hood that is different just to see the double takes when folks walk by a stock looking Ranger on Friday night. If I keep the slant pretty much stock I won't have much of a mileage penalty, if any. I've pulled 25 MPG from a Valiant and that's all I'm getting now. Since the truck is already injected, that is staying. Gonna make my own intake and headers and the exhaust is going to be easy since the truck already has a new 2 1/4" cat back with a DynoMax Super Turbo. Since we don't have inspection, the cat can totally disappear. Picked up a slant yesterday that was cast on my 18th birthday (karma?). The seller only knew that it came out of a '71 Dart but it was close and cheap. Got there and checked it out and it is a 198. The seller felt so bad that it wasn't a 225 that he threw in an auto trans from the same car complete from converter to yoke. Things are progressing well so far but I'm sure something will happen to torpedo it... :banghead:
 
How are you going to Inject it? That has been the torpedo for most. Ford 300ci 6 is a good candidate but distributor probs are the big hang up no matter what you try to use, unless aftermarket. :wack:
 
Going to cobble up injection using as many 4.0 Ford parts as possible. A 60 degree V6 has a cylinder fire every 120 degrees, just like a slant, and the electronics are plug and play with the Ranger. If I do need a new harness, there are plenty of Exploders in the local yards. May hook a couple of different (stock electronic and a Pertronix) distributors up to an oscilloscope to check the output waves and see if they would be compatible as a coil pack trigger. If not, I guess I'll need to rig up a crank trigger. Like I said before this is going to be a long, drawn out process. I'm going to need to solve problems as they pop up, but they will be solved. In case your thinking I'm using a lot of Ford parts it gets better. I found Ford valves that I am going to put in the head. The intakes are 1.72", the exhausts are 1.5", both have .257" stems, and are only .010" longer than the stock slant valves. The best part is the guides for these valves. They are .50" shorter than the slant guides which means I can grind that much of the guide hump out of the ports, I hope. I can overlook the cross breeding with the engine parts since they are all going into peripheral systems. The heart of the engine is remaining Mopar, and after all, it is going in a Ford...
 
I gotta follow your EFI (electronic ford injection) closely. MS 36-1 trigger wheel off slants 3 bolt crank hub (or behind it) and EDIS ignition, F the distributor! hang the crank trigger off the block bosses behind the water pump (A/C bracket boss?) or tack it through the timing chain cover.
DSC00098.JPG
 
I saw a youtube video a few years ago that showed EDIS on a slant six. I recall the 36-1 crank wheel wasn't as nice as pishta's photo. The pickup was on a long bracket that looked potentially wobbly, but the engine was running fine in the video. I put a 36-1 wheel on my 273 engine and considering that for my slant. Mounting the pickup on the slant is a bit trickier. It looks like pishta's isn't mounted yet, just a mockup.

You can't use a normal distributor pickup to trigger EDIS. It requires the 36-1 tooth signal. Distributors give only one pulse per cylinder per camshaft turn. Perhaps if you rigged a custom pickup wheel inside a distributor, you could make it work, but not in the normal "wasted spark" mode.
 
It might be possible to make the custom wheel for the distributor, it would have twice the teeth, and two missing teeth. 72-2 @180 deg. So the waste fire operation would work, where it emulate two crank turns, per single distributor rotation. I have done similar using 2.2L mopar Hall distributo, however with fewer teeth. They use a Hall vane sensor and cylinder tabs for triggering.

The trigger rate at high rpm may exceed the Hall speed capability, or target trigger requirements. The normal use is 4 tabs not 70. Test first.
 
Also a distributor trigger will have extra 'slop' in the timing due to the chain slack, any gear mesh gap, and possible shaft wobble. Seems like a good idea to avoid that.
 
Yep it's gonna need a trigger wheel. I need to use the distributor for a camshaft position sensor like Ford did on the 4.0...
 
Gonna pull the plug on this one. I'll go ahead and finish the slant but it will take up residence on a stand for now. Fell into the perfect engine for the Ranger today and dragged it home for $300. That's incredibly cheap for a running 8BA flathead Ford...
 
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